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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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David-ID1
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Post 59 AB year

I aquired another block to replace my cracked 8BA. It is a 59 AB. The new block is relieved, and is has been bored .030 over. The front pulley is set up for a hand crank. Is there any difinitive way to determine the year? Does it make any difference what year it is for a rebuild? Oh, would you pull the studs and use bolts for the heads? Would you replace the crank and rods with the newer style? I have all the parts from my 1950 8BA.

Thanks in advance,
David
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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From: Canada
59 Ab

Dave, what year is your truck? I believe this engine 59AB was first used from 1939 in the Mercury car. I could be out a year or 2, and you also mention the block is relieved. This is good the heads if matching should also be relieved.
To make it all the better, I believe these engines were used in WW11, in Army service vehicles. If this is the case and your engine is good, then if it were mine I would for sure use it. After all they had the insert bearings, and that sure was an improvement. It should also have the integrated bell housing, and 10 inch flywheel, bonus.
If its a good one then by all means use it.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Thanks for the info, I have no idea what this engine came out of. I was face down in a junk pile. I got the valves out of it today. Only had one that was froze. Pistons are all free and it turns over easily. Heads were a real challenge. Can I leave the studs in and still have it bored? I am afraid I might break them off if I try and get them out.
David
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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59 Ab

Dave, they the studs will have to be removed to have the engine bored. Take it to a machine shop where you will get the engine bored. Or you can buy the special tool that will remove them. This tool grabs the stud right at the very bottom an then if you know what you are doing, maybe it will come out. Chances are it won't, but you never know until you try.
My advice would be to get the machine shop to do it. The engine will have to be hot tanked, and should be magnafluxed to check for cracks. The crank also should be either turned, or at least polished, depending on the wear factor.
Be prepared to dish out some serious coin for a good job on the rebuild. If thats what your intention is. If you are just looking for a good running engine, check on this site to see if any of the guys are disposing of their stock Flathead, for a more modern engine. You can pick one up some times for a real bargain. Be patient and one will come along, again like I mentioned I don't know how serious you are on a rebuild.
What ever your choice, and what your pocket book will allow, I'm sure you will be pleased which ever way you go.
Best of luck to you, and have the enjoyment doing it.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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From: willamette valley ore
Your 59AB motor is from 1946-1948. They were the only flatty usec in Fords and Mercs during those years. They are 239 Cu. In. and rated @ 100 HP. You should indeed remove the head studs. They are probably compromised (stretched threads). They are not too difficult to remove if you use a good penetrating oil and a lot of patience. Bolts are not a good idea for these middle years as torquing the bolts has a tendency to pull the threads out of the block. Follow the instructions in Frank Oddo's book or anyone else that has a rebuild book out on flatties. They usually cover them all. Have fun. Steve
 
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