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I have a ford 352 that will likely be rebuilt. Is there a web sit that will show what parts and what needs to be done to make this engine tear up the pavement. I will have some of the work done by someone, but will assemble as much as possible myself. Without nitrous, what is the best possible HP I can pull out of this engine.
I'm planning on building one up myself here soon. I want to build it as a 352 though.. none of that bigger better stuff just max out the 352 for a fun/towing rig. I would like someone to quote a build here (uhhmmm Rusty) heres a challenge keep it $$ low as possible, torque strong, no headers stock manifolds, prefer to keep the 2bbl... Basically want the stock look with the most pulling torque for the buck.. I guess it's just Cam descision and possble home port job ?? May need new pistons, would go for a step up set if the $$ is right.
this is a statement that greatly contradicts itself... but then again, i suppose that is also based upon your interpretation of torque strong. how much you looking for? 300? 400?
This is the part that cracks me up, everyone on here seems to be worried about a number. I'm not here because I race the thing or have something to prove.. I just have an old truck I'd like to keep simple but improve as best possible with the stock outer look. I want it to look like it did in the day and improve on power and torque without robbing a bank to do it. When it's done it will carry a 8' box camper and tow a 17'6" fiberglass classic Glasspar up the Grapevine into the Central Ca lakes for summer fun. Possibly take off without the boat from time to time up north for some fly fishing. Just an ole' truck kinda truck,
I honestly think that the first place to go for improvement is with headers and a stock 4 barrel intake and carb. If you're willing to port and polish the heads yourself then I'd certainly do that because it will make a huge difference and it's mainly time you're investing to do it. I'm not sure if there would be much benefit to a cam change from stock without at least putting headers and the 4 barrel intake and carb. If you're good at "scrounging" then you can find a stock 4 barrel intake and a used carb pretty cheap....and many headers aren't that expensive either.
oops...back to what started this thread....convert the 352 to a 390 and follow all of Kurt's advice for the 390 build....you'll end up around 400 hp and similar torque #'s without the NOS.
Good Luck!
Tracy
Last edited by FalconStng; Mar 16, 2006 at 03:59 PM.
Done then, stock rebuild for stock performance. Hell it made it 40 years without looking like some teenager got ahold of it, why screw it up now. Thanks
i ran a few different cam profiles through the desktop dyno and the bottom line is that if you want low end torque with manifolds and a 2 barrel, stay with stock parts as they seem to offer the best low end.. maybe a simple rv cam but thats about all...
Thanks fordraceboy... I had read a few other posts and the RV cam was something that was on my mind.. sounds like thats the ticket..I just tore the head off and got a look at the # 7 exhaust valve ewwww!! will post picts in the gallery after cleaning up...
yeah... unless you're going to change the exhaust manifolds out for something with better flow, headers or some cast iron stock headers, anything else you do like head porting and big cam, or 4 bbl intake isn't gonna net you anymore power... i ran an RV cam in a 390 and it was a bit better than stock...
I have a real mild FE cam that's work OK in a stock 352. And they're cheap too.....under eighty bucks. That said I'd still chase 390 stuff down if it were mine. The parts (crank and rods) are free or nearly so, and the power increase is fer real even if you just build it stone stock from there.
Hey Robert, come up to the house when you get a chance and try my 352 with headers and a 4barrell and dual point dizzy, everything else is stock and compare it to your stocker.........Jim