I posted this in the 87-96 forum also so hope I'm not stepping on toes positng it in here too......perhaps I'm trying to do too much in one post but here goes anyhow.

Got a 96 F150 4x4 300-I6 short box with a manual tranny (M5OD I believe) and Warn manual locking hubs - I bought in 04. Has 73K on it. I have been slowly fixing it up. I have concentrated on making it run good and keeping it reliable since it's my daily driver.

Clunking noise:
The truck has (and has had since I bought it) a click/clunk noise that sounds like its coming from the front end when accelerating from a stop. The same noise seems to happen when a get a good amount of body lean during cornering also. Maybe its the same issue? Maybe it's a different issue altogether? My 1st thought is U-joints??? Want to fix this before I tackle stuff mentioned below...

That said, here is the list of stuff I have already done: I replaced all 4 shocks, both front coil springs (one was broken), all the ball joints, front and rear brake lines, new rear pads and drums, front brake rotors (good think I got a decent deal on the truck, cuz I put a bunch of $ into already). I have also replaced power steering lines, radiator, done a complete engine tune-up, new custom made exhaust from the manifold back, including new cat converter, radius arm bushings and a couple of other minor things. So I think it's pretty solid engine and basic performance wise.

My long term goal is to 1. to have a solid daily driver that is 2. off highway capable. By that I mean, I like to hunt and want to be able to get into the woods on some 4x4 and logging roads w/o serious concerns about reliability and performance of my truck.

Questions:
1. Tires: It had 31x10.5x15 Michelins on it when I bought it. I didn't like the tires so I took them off and replaced them with 235/75x15s (stock size tires) in BFG All-Terrain TAs which grip much better in mud/snow. The truck has 3.08 gears in it. For the little bit of off roading I have done thus far with it (it's my first 4x4) the 235/75s seem to do fine. But I was thinking of putting 31s back on it in the same BFGs I'm running now. For woods roads and logging roads, do I really NEED bigger tires? I just figured a little extra clearance would be ok and it would look better with the 31s, but I know it affect gear ratio etc.

2. What would be the next step in beefing the truck up for what I would call "easy" off road use? What would you do to it next? I don't think I want to lift it or anything like that, just want a good solid performer that will go another 100,000 miles or so.

Any suggestions? All suggestions and opinions welcome.
Thanks.
Rob

 

If it was me I would run 31x10.50 Goodyear Workhorse Tires. I ran a set on my '92 F150 once and they were probably the best AT tire I'd ever run.

THen I would do a gear swap to 4.10s.

 

have you checked the radius arm bushings and for the brackets being loose at the rivits to the frame?

 

x2 here too on the busshigns

 

chrono4 - Radius arm bushings have already been replaced. Thinking TIB pivot bushings. Thoughts?

 

For daily driving and occasional off road use you have the right truck. I would stick with the 31x10.50s (I am partial to Cooper Discoverer STs), it's a good all around tire size to run on a stock truck. I would dump the 3.08s and go with 3.55s or 3.73s, 3.55s can be found at any junkyard in decent used shape from basically any 84-96 F150 or Bronco (80-83s had the 9" rear). I would go with a lunchbox locker for the rear and leave the front open. I have a Powertrax No Slip in my 84 and it works great. You don't need to lift the truck, but you could add a 2" leveling kit to the front for a little more height and clearance in the front. I would add a steering stabilizer to the front suspension, this will help to reduce wear and tear on front end components. I would add a grille guard to mount a couple off road lights for night time wheeling in the boonies, plus a grille guard offers you front end protection from brush and off road debris. The 300 six will last you easily another 100,000, you may need to replace the clutch somewhere along the line. Sounds like a nice truck I hope you enjoy it. BTW I would check the pivot bushings, sway bar bushings, end links...whatever it is it's something simple.

 

3.08s and 31x10.50s aren't the best combo on a 300-6 with a mazda overdrive...

I wouldn't just sell your 235s and get 31s now. I only had 235s on my old beater F150, and the only problem I had was not being able to clean the AT tire treads on my truck.

The 235/31x10.50 gains about one inch in clearance. Not really enough to get excited about. you know the trails you have to drive on. Around my place, as long as I am not trying to get stuck, I don't have a problem with clearance.

I would consider moving up to 33x12.50s and 3.73 or 4.11 gears. 33s give you more clearance and are still very steetable. My cousin always ran 33s on his che*y blazer and never had any problems with getting stuck. The plus side is that they will still fit without a lift kit.

 

did you check the radius arm brackets themselves??? the rivets have been known to work loose

 

I don't think 33s will clear on that body style, you would need at least a 2.5 inch suspension lift to clear 33s with no rubbing. I run 33s/4" lift on my 84 F150 with the 300 six/NP435 and 4.10 gears LS ft/locker rr, it's a sweet combo on the trail...geared a tad low for the highway because I have no overdrive. It's great for running around town and on the back roads, I have been thinking about going to 35s some day to give me some of my taller gear back.

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Right now, I want to concentrate on getting my "click/clunk" noise taken care of. Going to crawl under it this weekend and have look at everything. I'll check the radius arm brackets while I'm at it. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I do know what I am looking at, so maybe I can diagnose before taking to the shop.

After that, I'll start working on my want list items:
Steering Stablizer is something I planned on
Gears and Locker
Then -
Tires
Grill/Brush Gaurd and lights
Maybe replace the bench seat with some Captains Chairs from a Bronco?

Got anything else? Glad to hear any other ideas and/or suggestions. Keep em coming.
Rob

 

I am partial to having a bench seat in a regular cab pickup...just my 2 cents. Sounds like you have the right idea for setting up your truck.

 

i good way to see if the radius arm brackets/bushings and the ttb bushings or brackets is to get someone fire the truck up and turn the wheel from lock to lock on pavement and look for movement

 

> What would you do to it next?

For what you have and what you do.

#1 #1 - tool box with tools

1) hi-lift jack

2) 3 ton SUV floor jack reaches to 21"

3) 2x12 PT wood of various lengths. Does not hurt to take some 2x12 x 24 and screwing them together to form mini-ramps with ballisters on one side.

4) (2) 3/8 chain x 25' chain

5) four forged shackles to fit inside the chain

6) CB or cell phone

7) 12v air pump

All of this will cost less then a good limited slip.

Ditch the 15 inch wheels. Get STEEL (not alum.) 16" wheels and put P235/85R16 tires on the truck. Aired down, you will still have some sidewall height and traction. If you get high centered, stuff boards under the tires, air up the tires to the max, and try to drive out.

Eventually, I would look at limited slip diffs., rear and then front.

 

Don't forget a couple of tow straps at least 3" wide 30 or so feet long...they're safer to use than chains. I have a 2" receiver hitch on the front of my 84, you should at least install a set of tow hooks in the front; a class 3 receiver hitch in the rear would be idea. There is a good "how to article" in the articles/specs section on this website on how to install tow hooks on the front of 92-96 F-series and Broncos... check it out. Make sure you have solid frame mounted attachment points front and rear to hook a chain or strap if you need to pull or be pulled out of a stuck. I strongly recommend getting a Hi-Lift jack and look into the off road kit that Hi Lift offers, it's cheaper than buying a winch and works almost as good. I wouldn't leave the pavement without mine! When it comes to off road recovery gear I go by three elements: dig it out, lift it up, and pull it out. And SAFETY FIRST!

 

Thanks everyone. Lots of good advice.

I do already have a tool box and a good start on the tool kit. I'll look into some of the suggestions. When the time comes for tires, I had considered going to 16s.

Tow straps is in my plans too. I will definitely look into off road kit you mentioned from Hi-Lift. I already have a class 3 hitch in the back but the tow hooks for the front is a really good idea. I'll go read that.

Rob