I know somebody mentioned the tongue weight, I just wanted to second that. Especially on a Toy Hauler where you have so much variance on where you can put the weight. I have a 20 foot enclosed car hauler for the quads and moving everything forward or back a foot makes a huge difference on stability behind not only the X but wifies 03 Expo (which definitely isn't a great tow vehicle.

On the long post above, btdt on the tranny overheat. Hopefully mine is salvageable but mine is in order for a large capacity pan and good flush. Mine didn't smoke, it just dumped the fluid out the bottom and all over everything. I'm also wondering if you are quoting your EGT correctly. Waaay too high. Stock max setting for the Edge is 1300 and I have yet to reach that towing. Make sure you have a good large exhaust to get the heat out...

sm

 

9-10 with my V-10.

 

i am not sure. i did not get a manual with the programmer. but while i was monitoring it it said 2150 egt pretty sure. it varied from 1950-2150, and trans temp from 175-220,line pressure as high as 82 psi, back pressure 54 not really familiar with the edge programmer. i was going to buy it from a friend that owns a transmission shop. but i told him i needed the trans first before the programmer. c still drives and goes just have to baby and not shoot rpms over 2500 and it will pull fine shifting slow and extended time. so here i trying to decide what to do. buy a bullet proof trans for 3200 3 yrs unlimited mileage or a jasper for 2315 3 yr 75k or have my trans guy build it for 1600 12/12k with me joing the r&r. my family loves the x but if it is gonna keep shelling transmissions its gonna go! best mpg pulling my 33 ft bumper toybox was 8.5. i have a 94 non psd turbo 7.3 cc drwthat pulled it a got 6-7 but ran hot on water temp and was straining on hills it has some mods on it not radical

 

Search the forums for Edge information and average EGTs. Your EGT is way too high and you will melt down your exhaust valves/turbo. You really can't run an Edge with a stock exhaust or you will have this problem; A MBRP 4" Exhaust can be had for just over $300 if you shop around.

If you are going to be running a programmer, and/or towing a large trailer, get the mac-daddy transmission and torque converter with the unlimited warranty. The stock tranny is far from bulletproof; not one of Ford's strong points. I went through a couple AODs on my low mileage Mustang before I had a AODominator Jr. built which has been flawless...

 

i checked out the mbrp site on the exhaust there was not a listing for a x are there any mods to make the kit fit right

 

MBRP has a 4" for the X, I have one and love it! The 5" stainless tip is great!
http://www.dieselperformanceparts.co...bc&f_match=100

 

was the price about the same as the 5" kit. any problems on install

 

I paid about $425 delivered with the upgraded tip. I've seen guys get them cheaper though. Install was fairly easy, I did it with no help.

 

How did this turn into an exhaust thread?

Back to topic, please.

 

How do I find a link to Landyot radius bars.

 

Do a search for his user name LANDYOT, then drop him an email.

 

I have a 2005 4x4 6.0 Ex, stock suspension with factory tow pkg and Ford anti-sway bar. To date, only towed a 4000# boat and all is well, in fact rides better w/ the boat than empty as far as tracking. I am shopping for used TT a 28 or 31 footer depending on how eBay bidding goes this week that would weigh in at 7500 to 8000#. I have questions related to these points:

1) To get the truck under control, I plan on using either the R-Rods or the Roadmaster active suspension setup (www.activesuspension.com) in the near future. I like the idea of Roadmaster b/c it seems like it will stabilize the rear axle similar to the Rods with only the give of the springs. At the same time, it acts as a spring 'helper' like the air bags when under heavy load. There was a sep post on this a while back, but only 1 opinion, anyone else compare these to the Rods?

2) Some used campers come w/ the weight dist hitch included and some don't. Never having used these before I called Uhaul just to get some prices since they sell them, and a guy I know has worked there long time says I shouldn't need the weight dist hitch if under 10k lbs for the X, but I think he's assuming my rear susp is that of a F250SD and of course there are some differences... Would I be crazy to tow 8000# with "regular" hitch (w/ other rear end mods - as above) or do I definitely want the weight dist/sway hitch?

Thanks for any help...

 

I don't know about you but look at your receiever. It does tell you that for certain weights you need a WD hitch. Mine does. I have a Draw Tite WD hitch with sway control

 

From what I've read and researched, and my own limited experience, get the dual cam WD setup. It's just a few hundred dollars to protect against some potentially catastrophic damage to you and your property. Check out what they say at RV.net also. Those folks just about universally recommend a WD setup of some kind when towing over 5000 lbs

 

There is simply no question about it.

You MUST have a weight distribution hitch setup for anything over 5,000 lb.