Have reset the computer and the ABS lite stays on. Brake fluid is full. Any hints?
Thanks
bill

 

If the ABS light comes on after you start moving, I would be willing to bet that the speed sensor on the rear differential is bad. This is a fairly common problem and a pretty easy/cheap fix. The sensor is located on the diff and costs about $24. Takes about 10-15 minutes to replace.

 

yea, thats what i would say too.....i had to replace mine......10mm screw on top of diff. then the sensor comes out....it's quick fix

 

My ABS light comes on when I turn the key, and stays on. Is that different than coming on when the truck begins to move?
Thanks,
bill

 

mine comes on when I start the truck. I metered the sensor, and it is open.. so I am guessing it could be either.

 

If the sensor is open (or shorted), the ABS lite will come on and stay on when the system first powers up.

At POST, the system performs a check for gross failures (open or short circuits) of the electrical components of the system including sensors, pump motors, solenoid coils, etc. If no gross faults are found the BAS lite is switched off after seconds.

When the vehicle first starts moving for the first time after power up, the ABS computer performs a short dynamic self-test in which it looks for the wheel speed sensors to be operating and runs a short cycle of the pump. Any failure in this test will turn on the ABS light and set the ABS computer to OFFLINE, leaving the conventional hydraulic brakes to operate without ABS assistance.

Since the rear diff sensor is the most common failure, pull it and check it with an ohmmeter. A good sensor will read between 1K and 1.5K or so. Most common failure mode is for it to open, as noted.

If the sensor checks good, you will have to pull the ABS codes to see what the proper diagnostic procedure will be.

If you have RABS, you can pull the codes yourself (instructions are around here someplace).

If you have 4WABS, you will have to get access to an ABS-capable scanner and have the codes pulled. These scanners are not your typical auto parts store scanner, so you will need to locate a well-equipped shop, a dealership, or about $900+ to buy your own in order to get the codes.

Steve

 

Many Thanks for all the help. Was going to the beach this weekend, however the plans have been changed. Will pull the sensor on the differental and check it out.
thanks again
b

 

I went to car quest here in Pensacola and got the ABS sensor (after market) for 10 bucks and replaced the old one and now all is good! If I went to the dealer, I would be paying for it forever!
Thanks again
Bill

 

thanks for letting us know that it worked!! i love it when people come back and tell us that the problem got fixed. my abs light is also on and i will change the sensor tomorrow to see if that is the cure.

thx

 

What surprised me was that I had topped off the brake fluid before changing the sensor and after I noticed that there was room for more. Not a lot, I guess the pump took some?
bill

 

Had my ABS checked this past friday (light comes on at about 6 MPH).
The dealer listed the following codes:
C1185, C1229,C1230.
They wanted around 800 bucks to fix it. Like they said, the brakes still work, just not the ABS... I have read a little about the C1229 and C1230, but I am told I need to replace the ABS module as well.... Really NOT looking forward to going back to the dealer to get it done.... Any help is greatly appreciated on what's best to do next...
(except Trade her for a '05 Screw....)
Thanks,
99 F150, XLT Supercab, 4x4, 5.3L
Just hit 120,000 miles, still running great ( it better, just put all new front end components on her...First big money since I got the truck)

 

I would replace the ABS sense that sits on the top of the differental first. Prices range from 10 to 23 bucks. I did not have to jack up the truck. Just crawled in and there's a 10mm bolt on the rear side of the sensor. Unplug the cable, back out the bolt, clean the well, lub the o ring and push the new one in, replace the bolt and plug in the cable.
Worked for me.
bill

 

Oh man thats hurts, You would be surprised that alot of the prices from "THE DEALER" are fairly competive. Ford motor co has been working really hard on trying to change this perception for the last few years mostly at the dealers expense. Anyway always check aftermarket and the dealer so you are informed and can make the best choice at the time for your needs.

Remember you get what you pay for!

ABS sensor F85Z-2L373-AC LIST $22.72 FTE $16.36

Ed

 

Ed,
Didnt mean to get you upset. I have no problems going to a dealer for most major work. Just got done with the 120K service and a new front end. But when I read I can get a sensor for 10-25 bucks, and do it myself, or have it changed at a local garage...then the Dealer tells me it will cost me 831.00 to fix the problem ( they just went to 95.00/hr flat rate)...it just kind of steers me in looking for somewhere else to get the work done... thanks for the information.
Rick

 

I hear you. This is why I'm on this site to help with questions and info for The FTE site members. I'm hoping to change some peoples opinion's and check with me or there local dealer(no just me) for a price and see if the OEM factory parts are the best value for you. I'm not upset, just want to encourage you to check the dealer also(check with me only) ha ha

example; wholesale customer called me today wanted price on injectors for a 98 Ranger. I tell him list price $50.04 ea and $37.53 ea his cost.
he states he got ripped off! I ask hows that, bought some from carquest and napa and they charge him $58.00 ea his price. So being a smart a$$ I ask him what lesson he learn here today, really I did, He say's to call the dealer frist!
and this is my point.

Have a nice day. e-mail me next time you need a price. I might be able to save you a couple of bucks. :-)

Ed