worst tune up ever
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Seneca, SC
worst tune up ever
Ok well the beater's(92 chevy corsica, 3.1 v6, transverse mounted) mileage dropped to 20mpg, so I decided it was a time to do a tune up, and if the mileage didn't come up I was gonna scrap her. Everything went well until:
Spark plug #5 siezed, then cross-threaded, then the ceramic broke off, then the plug rounded off. I can't pull the back head because it's too close to the firewall, I'm gonna have to pull the whole mess if I can't get this plug out. I was using a 12pt socket and so I had a thought. If I fired the engine on the other 5 pistons and at the same time cool the spark plug with dry ice. I thought that the head expanding and the plug contracting would loosen it up enough to get it out, and using a 6pt socket would gripo what the 12 pt hadn't rounded off. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but it didn't work. Now the only thing that I can think of is to try and epoxy a socket to the remainder of the plug and try that. Anybody got any ideas?
Spark plug #5 siezed, then cross-threaded, then the ceramic broke off, then the plug rounded off. I can't pull the back head because it's too close to the firewall, I'm gonna have to pull the whole mess if I can't get this plug out. I was using a 12pt socket and so I had a thought. If I fired the engine on the other 5 pistons and at the same time cool the spark plug with dry ice. I thought that the head expanding and the plug contracting would loosen it up enough to get it out, and using a 6pt socket would gripo what the 12 pt hadn't rounded off. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but it didn't work. Now the only thing that I can think of is to try and epoxy a socket to the remainder of the plug and try that. Anybody got any ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: the side of a mountain
https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sears.com%2 Fsr%2Fjavasr%2Fproduct.do%3FBV_UseBVCookie%3DYes%2 6vertical%3DTOOL%26pid%3D00952161000 those things, go to sears, there are in a red case, get the full set. they are the best things i have ever used. i either get the bolt out or i break the head of it off. but normally it gets the bolt out. they are great for getting studs out of exhaust manifolds. Sears item #00952162000 that is the full set of 13.
Last edited by 76 F-150 390FE; Mar 12, 2006 at 07:39 PM.
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Just a speculation, someone i know needed to change plug wires on his 03 eclispe. Which is a 2.3 v6 transverse mounted bull crap.
I laughed when i found out that he had to remove the ENTIRE intake manifold, injectors, and other computer wires to do this. He has to pick a day the summer to work the entire day to change plugs and wires. LMAO!!
Takes me 15 mins to change plugs and wires on my bronco II. Thats why you shouldnt expect to work on you car, when its an 03 ricer..
I laughed when i found out that he had to remove the ENTIRE intake manifold, injectors, and other computer wires to do this. He has to pick a day the summer to work the entire day to change plugs and wires. LMAO!!
Takes me 15 mins to change plugs and wires on my bronco II. Thats why you shouldnt expect to work on you car, when its an 03 ricer..
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by amish77
Now the only thing that I can think of is to try and epoxy a socket to the remainder of the plug and try that. Anybody got any ideas?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Seneca, SC
yeah I can get one hand back there, when laying on the engine, and I can't see it now, I can only feel it there. The weld idea is a good one though, how would I get penetration between the socket and the plug? Just weld around the base with the socket half on, or try to do some typw of spot weld? I don't have a welder, but I guess I could borrow one, or call this a good reason to buy one. 
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Seneca, SC
that sucks with the eclipse, I haven't heard of one of those that had a well designed system on it. I had to fix a buddy of mine strip out his accessory belt drive pulley, it had a rubber ring sandwitched between two metal rings and they slipped on each other. Pretty sure that mitsubishi's suck. But hey, let's not get off topic here. how to get something stripped out of my engine. Hey 76 do the bolt outs that you mentioned work with a ratchet or are they drill mounted? I can't get a drill back there.
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Posting Guru
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From: the side of a mountain
ratchet, if you can get it on there a little and then put a punch or somethin on it and beat it on then use the socket on the end of it.
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The mitsubishi was most likely desinged on a computer, and over looked by engineers. There was also somthing like that i saw on mythbusters where the had to remove the front wheel to remove a battery of a dodge intrepid.
But anyway, if all else really fials, you can try to drill it out, but then again, if you can hardly get a hand in there, i doubt a drill will help. try cooling the plug with dry ice, and super heating the area right aorund the base of the plug with a compact torch or somthing to break it loose.
did you try driving it back in to get it out of the cross thread?
But anyway, if all else really fials, you can try to drill it out, but then again, if you can hardly get a hand in there, i doubt a drill will help. try cooling the plug with dry ice, and super heating the area right aorund the base of the plug with a compact torch or somthing to break it loose.
did you try driving it back in to get it out of the cross thread?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Seneca, SC
socket costs less than a head, I'm ok with a 6 dollar fix. ok, so try the bolt out and if that dosen't work then the mangled mess with jb weld and a socket. Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how it truns out.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Riverview, MI
Welcome to the wonderful world of the 3.1L
I had a 91 Olds Cutlass with the same motor. I went to do a tune up on it, and guess what, could get that same plug out. The middle spark plug in the back is a pain. I asked a mechanic freind of mine, to do a tune up, properly on that engine, you've got to take the rear motor mounts loose, then jack the motor up from the rear.
As far as your problem now, I had the exact same thing happen, and finally got the plug out with some torture, and vice grips. Unfourtunatley, there were some remainders in the engine cylinder. Engine started to knock, so I had to replace the motor.
Hope yours turns out better than mine.
As far as your problem now, I had the exact same thing happen, and finally got the plug out with some torture, and vice grips. Unfourtunatley, there were some remainders in the engine cylinder. Engine started to knock, so I had to replace the motor.
Hope yours turns out better than mine.
