Speedmoter Problems

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Mar 12, 2006 | 04:57 PM

jobsite

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Speedmoter Problems

I have a 2000 Ford F250 diesel truck with less than 40,000 miles. The speedometer does not work. The ABS warning light stays on and of course, the cruise control does not work either. I took it to the dealer before it was out of warranty but now, they are saying it would take between $150 and $300 to fix. Are there any better options that you know of?

Mar 12, 2006 | 05:09 PM

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

Probably the Vehicle Speed Sensor, $30. On top of the rear differential, facing the front of the truck. It's the only electrical part there, you can't miss it and it's held by only one 10mm bolt. It's a little difficult to get at if you have a rear sway-bar, other than that, pice of cake.

Last edited by n578md; Mar 12, 2006 at 05:14 PM.

Mar 12, 2006 | 05:36 PM

jobsite

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any idea where we could buy one?

Mar 12, 2006 | 05:43 PM

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

NAPA has them for $27.99, for example. www.napaonline.com . NAPA's item # is ECHVSS333. There's always the your local dealer.

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...e+Speed+Sensor

Last edited by n578md; Mar 12, 2006 at 05:46 PM.

Mar 12, 2006 | 05:54 PM

jobsite

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Boy...you have sure been a lot of help. Thanks

Mar 12, 2006 | 05:57 PM

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

Let us know how it turns out!

Mar 12, 2006 | 11:11 PM

4x06

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Isn't true that your mileage won't go up if you speedometer is broke or stuck...if thats the case...you might reconsider.....for resale reasons, of course

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Mar 13, 2006 | 08:06 AM

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x06

Isn't true that your mileage won't go up if you speedometer is broke or stuck...if thats the case...you might reconsider.....for resale reasons, of course

No, actually, if you have 4 wheel ABS, it isn't true. (2000-now) The odometer not only uses the rear channel VSS in the differential but it also uses the front left and front right wheel ABS sensors to determine mileage. The only Super Duties that this would work for were those that had rear ABS only. 1999 F250 and F350 SRW (all trucks under 10,000LBS GVWR) and that were not of the Lariat trim had Rear ABS only. 4-wheel ABS was an option that could be added, however. 1999 F350 DRW, F450 and F550's had 4-wheel ABS stock.

Mar 14, 2006 | 02:42 PM

#10

Racecarhauler

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From: Virginia Beach

Question about the Speed Sensor:

Is it possible that when this thing is failing that it makes a squeeking sound from back there?? I have yet to check it out but I get a pulsing/squeeking sound that seems to be speed related (pulses increase with speed) and it's not a wheel bearing, brake rotor dust shield or dragging pads, etc.

It doesn't change tone or pulse speed when turning or on the brakes, hard or soft.

The picture suggests that there's a moving part similar to a speedo gear, but then it's just a picture and I'm speculating.

This noise is driving myself and my girlie NUTS trying to figure out what it is!

Any suggestions are appreciated as I'm at a loss for now.

Mar 14, 2006 | 03:34 PM

#11

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

There's no parts making contact in this system. The VSS is an induction coil similar to your camshaft and crankshaft position sensor. It is in close proximity, but never touches the tone ring and detects the passage of each "tooth" on the tone ring. In this picture, you can see the tone ring sandwiched between the carrier and the ring gear. It looks like a thin gear with small teeth on it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=84249&width=0

The pulsating squealing may be the center carrier bearing on your driveshaft. (If you have a 2-piece unit.) The carrier bearing (see picture) is a sealed bearing and what's possibly making the noise is that seal rotating along with the rollers and scraping against the bearing race. (There's a TSB on that subject but the "fixed" part does the same thing... Well, in my truck it did.) Normally, the seal stays put. The easy way to determine if the seal is the culprit is to give the rear-facing side of the carrier bearing a good dousing with WD40. If it goes away, then you might want to replace that carrier bearing if it is too annoying.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=55369&width=0

Mar 14, 2006 | 04:56 PM

#12

Racecarhauler

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From: Virginia Beach

Aaaaah...

...I see. I did catch your thread on that, those are YOUR pics right? I read that thread after replying to this one and the carrier bearing makes more sense.

I do have the two-piece driveshaft and the more I think about it the more I'm convinced that is the culprit.

I wish I had more time to log onto here! ...but travelling and my "day job" make it difficult.

Thanks guys!! ...I am polite enough to return to this post and state whether replacing that bearing has cured my annoying woes.

Any tips on replacing this bad boy and where to source it - other than the dealership?

Mar 14, 2006 | 05:13 PM

#13

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

Yeah, these are pics of my 2003. I used the 30-ton press at work and I think a 2 1/2" piece of schedule 40 to press that thing ON. (edit) Ford's the only place I can think of that might have it. Test it with the WD40 first, I'd hate to see you waste money on the wrong cure.

Last edited by n578md; Mar 14, 2006 at 05:30 PM.

Mar 14, 2006 | 05:18 PM

#14

Racecarhauler

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From: Virginia Beach

What's a "schedule 40"??

About how much is that bearing?

Yup, I plan to do the WD-40 trick 1st...using Corrosion-X, a similar and MUCH BETTER product though.

Mar 14, 2006 | 05:25 PM

#15

n578md

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From: Allen, Tx

PVC pipe, the gray stuff. The carrier bearing assembly itself was about $90.

I should clarify that you'll need the press to put the new bearing ON the driveshaft, but we used a 3-jaw puller to yank it OFF the driveshaft. I guess you could use a (very) large socket and a hammer to gently drive it back on. We just happen to have a press.

Last edited by n578md; Mar 14, 2006 at 05:31 PM.