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Transdat Motor Mounts

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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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ksmith203's Avatar
ksmith203
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Transdat Motor Mounts

I am now ready to put in my 351 Windsor into my 51 Ford F-6. I purchased a couple of sets of mounts off of Dennis Carpenter to do the install with. I bought a universal mount for a 351 W and a 351 Cleveland. My dad took the wrong set and proceeded to cut it up because it would not fit. I guess he never though to read the box where it says 351 windsor mount. I called back to dennis carpenter to purchase another one for $185.00 but they were out. I was told to call transdat direct to see where in my area the had a distributor. They told me that Summit Racing stocked some of their mounts. I purchased the 4551 mount which was much cheaper (yea) and just as easy to put on. My question is: How do you know where to place the engine, and how to keep it level while you mark where to drill the holes. I though maybe I should remove the carb and set a level on it, but maybe there is a better way, which is why I'm coming to you for advise.

Thanks Kevin
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 04:08 PM
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Randy Jack
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Kevin -

A level on the carb intake face is the preferred and most foolproof method of setting the engine angle correctly. I've seen folks use blocking under the engine or a cherry picker over it with a jack under the tranny to set the rig.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:05 PM
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Thanks for the input. I am going to try to put the engine in on Tuesday. We'll see how it goes. If anyone else has suggestions, I wide open to them!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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I THINK the engine tilts down a bit in the back, and the stock intake manifold is cast such that the carb sits level. So a level across the manifold should work, but I am not an expert.

Also, you do not want the tranny pointing directly at the rear end - you want the drive shaft to be at a bit of an angle. It is supposed to avoid drive shaft rumbles that way, and forces the needle bearings to work, keeping them greased.

Also again, you do not need to center the engine on the frame. Many people move it a bit to the right to allow more space for headers and steering box.

I am sure someone with more experance will be along shortly, and I also remember a long thread on this subject - you might do a search and see.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 09:41 AM
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I used that same kit. I used a floor jack with a block of wood under it to lift the engine. I put a level on the top of the carburetor. The problem was, I couldn't get the mounts high enough on the frame rails. The tops of the rails prevented it. I actually had to use stacks of washers as spacer to mock up how high the engine needed to be lifted in order to level it front to back. It was like two more inches. Then I had to measure the height of the stacks of washers and have spacers machined. If I had to do it again I would have purchased the crossmember kit from CPP I still might when the funds are available. It really looks bad when its all together. Because of clearence issues I also had to grind part of the casting flange off of the drivers side exhaust manifold and put a small C-notch in the drivers engine mount. I just don't think it's a well engineered kit. After all of that, it did function very well and took a front end collision at 40 mph without a problem. I wish the rest of the truck held up the same. If you notice, my black 58 is no longer all black. That's my two cents. John
 
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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ksmith203
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Thanks for the advise. I probably will just puchase the kit from CPP. I want it to look decent at least.
 
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