I have a 1979 Ford with a 351 M and 4-speed manual transmission, and I'm thinking about putting a 460 in it. Will the bell housing and flywheel interchange?

 

Yes the 400 and the 460 use the same bolt pattern. though the mounts are a different story, you may need to change out the towers or get mounts that will fit the towers. I have seen adds that sell these mounts.

Dave

http://a2ztowing.homestead.com/a2ztowing.html

 

I think you will also need the flywheel that goes with a 460.

 

Hey Chuck, your are correct the fly wheels are different between the 460/400. Thanks my oversigt

Dave

http://a2ztowing.homestead.com/a2ztowing.html

 

L@L headers sells the motor mounts that you need.

Glenn

 

Off the subject, but I have never been able to locate a website for L&L though I see their ads in the truck mags all the time.
Anyone know of a website, or do they not have one?

Thanks!

Steve

 

I've seen multiple threads in the past on the complications of making the 460 work w/ a 351M/400 flywheel and bellhousing. As I understand it, the 400 bellhousing isn't deep enough for the clutch parts to clear when the flywheel is bolted to the 460 crank. There have been some remedies detailed here in the past. Try a subject search on this. I don't remember exactly but I think I remember a combination of spacer adapters, with some machineing to make things work, or going to more modern 460/manual tranny components from the 80's and 90's.

BBT

 

I have heard you can use a 390 flywheel/400 bellhousing to swap in a 460 but I don't know if it will really work.


www.landlproducts.com

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 02-Feb-01 AT 11:11 PM (EST)[/font][p]hello i speak from exp
it is sitting in the driveway you need to decied on what 460 you are going to use eairly 70 used internly balanced motor you can use 360 or 390 flyweel the difference is the 360 uses a 11 inch clutch the 390 uses a 12 inch clutch yes the 400 460 bolt pattern is the same you can use 390 motor mounts olny two holes will line up though they will work and pilot bearing that will also be difficult oh yeah late 70 were ext balanced and i am running an 11 inch clutch i plan on going to 12 and center force next year because i tow alot of stock




any other question e-mail me at maladue@theofficenet.com

 

 

I am in the same boat as the first guy. I have a 77 F-150 with the granny-4 speed manual and a dead 351M. I have been trying to get local info and am getting a lot of mixed information. The main reason I want to do the swap is for increased power of course, but I don't want to sacrafice reliability and end up with a Duct Tape job. I have a few questions.

1. What 460 engines are better? I have heard pre 78.
2. Should I use a 11 " or a 12" clutch?
3. Where can I get (or what works for) motor mounts?
4. If I am looking for all around speed and strength, what rebuild specs would be suggested?
5. Are there any conversion points that I'm gonna beat myself over missing?

Thanks,
Parker

 

Hey pard,

You can find L&L's website at

www.landlproducts.com

Good Luck,
Parker

 

Can't help with the trans, have the C-6 from the 351M, on the mounts, L&L or Offroadunlimited both offer lifetime warranty mounts. I went with the post-internal balanced, '79 or later, with the 3Y crank, it's suppose to be a little stronger, but you will need the correct flywheel or in my case flexplate to balance the engine. Some very early blocks had a high nickel content and could be taken to .080 over safely (with a block in good condition), I think mostly 68-69's. Have '70 D0VE-C heads mounted, stud mounted rockers, not pedestals. Roller rockers bolt on with no conversion kit needed. Also had the CJ size exhaust valves put in the heads to help with flow on that side, but retained the stock intakes. One thing to watch with this combo is the pushrod lenght, the blocks grew a little taller thru the years, machining got a little back, but still had to use CJ +.200 lenght, which came out to 8.775". Everything from the 351M went onto the 460 as far as acc. goes. If you have A/C, and run the tall valve covers, it will be tight on the passenger side, but I can still remove the cover in the truck. Only other thing that was a real "problem" was mounting the fan where I wanted it in the shroud, had to have the local shop cut and countersink a spacer to move it away from the rad. and back into the opening of the shroud. Used all the brackets from L&L for the acc., and had to "trim" a little off the top of the bottom alt. bracket to fit the hi-out alt, stock fit with no problem. Some have had problems with the dist. drive gear not being the correct size, I already had an aftermarket cam in the stocker and didn't have any problems, I think there are several different sizes that are all close, something like .500 and .530 in dia., sorry don't recall this point to clearly! You will need a rear sump oil pan if going into a 4x4 or you may have problems with the diff hitting it, this would need a pick-up as well. If I think of anything else that was "special" or a "problem", I'll post it for you.