This is my first Truck Manual tranny (Had an auto in my previous SD). It is a 99.5 F250 SD w/ 7.3L 6sp Manual with 44k on everything.

I have a few questions on it:

I was wondering if there are any adjustments for gear engagement as it seems like I have to use a touch too much force to go into gear (My only manual comparison is to a 92 Civic - about 10 years ago - which I drove for 60k miles) - especially 1st and 2nd. Sometimes from a dead stop I have to push quite hard to go into first - or I can shift into 2nd and then first (While stopped). Is this normal? Are there any aftermarket shift kits to improve (and quicken) the flow from gear to gear; as well as shorten the throw?

My 2nd question: Is it normal to get vibration for a split second when the clutch locks up...if you don't significantly slip the clutch when taking off from a dead stop? If I slip the clutch some, it is never there. It only happens when engagement is somewhat abrupt and typically only in 1st.

My last question is - Higher RPM running - There seems to be some excess noise/vibration that I never had in my 99 with the Automatic. Is it just the extra flywheel mass? From idle to about 1800 rpm, she is smooth as silk, then comes the strange sensation. It is there from 1800 or 1900 to redline, doesn't matter which gear.

Thanks in advance.

 

Mine does excatly what you describe, I usually shift into second before fisrt anyway but I know what you mean by not slipping right into first. I also get vibration if I let the clutch out without slippin' it abit or not enough throttle. As far as excess noise I havn't noticed that but I do get vibration at higher speeds, the shifter shakes and the
button with the gear pattern on it goes round and round.

 

1. How much free play do you have at the top of the clutch pedal travel? You shouldn't have more than an inch before you feel that the throw out bearing is pushing on the clutch. Not enough free play= clutch not fully disengaging which will lead to very difficult shifting.
2. You are probably just hearing the gears rattling at that low speed. Perfectly normal.
3. Mine vibrates, but not until 2600 and above. And then it's not that bad. No buzzing of the shift handle or rotation of the ****.

 

I always do the double clutch thing 1st-2nd-3rd when it is cold. And I agree with the shift into 1st from 2nd.

 

1. I have maybe 2 - 2.5" of free play at the top. Where is the adjustment? I regularly wrench on my vehicles, but have not played with a manual tranny...YET.

2. I figured that it was normal, but wanted to make sure.

3. Mine doesn't buzz or rotate the ****, but I might describe it as extra noise & light vibration - that was definately not ever present with my automatic. With my automatic, I could put it to the floor and it would just go - I would hear the turbo spool up and it would have that characteristic turbo whine all the way to the shift points (Near redline). With my manual, it sounds/feels like you are doing something wrong when you let it spool up - Like you are straining the engine.

 

No time to elaborate.
Check the clutch master cylinder and see if it's moving in and out of it's mount.

 

Not to hyjack the thread but do you guys start in first or second? I have 4:11's and start in 1st. To get the beast moving requires a bit more time on the clutch in second and the gear shouldn't wear out has fast as the clutch disk.

 

Either one. If I am in a hurry, I use 2nd. If I am towing, it is 1st (Or even low). Sometimes I use 1st, 3rd, 5th or 2nd 4th 5th. The wide torque band and close ratio allows you to skip gears under empty conditions.

 

dunno if there is a diffrence in years or not, my 99 has L then 1, 2, 3, 4 the OD. I always start out in 1, unless going up an incline or pulling a load. It makes all the same noises and chatter that you are talking about, no better, no worse. When I first got it, I was scared the clutch was getting bad, but now that I have had it and pulled heavy loads, I am fine with it. Plus, its got 236,000 on it. I dont get any vibrations, unless I am going very slow and the rpms are low, then I get a little gear rattle from the case. All in all, its much better than the 5spd I had in my f150 and much smother shifts than the 5spd in my 89 diesel.

 

i Had the same vibration you are describing at 1800 and above. If the clutch pedal gets vibration sent up to it it is more than likely the throughout bearing. My pedal would get that vib and annoy the heck out of me.(replaced master and slave still was there) I went ahead and just ordered a whole new clutch replacement not knowing it woulf just be the throughout bearing when i removed the tranny. The stock clutch ws still good with 140,000 on it but the throughout was done. threw the whole new set up in it and good for another 5 years. just something to check out.

 

I use first unless there is the slightest roll (stop signs at such). Going to first usually tosses you into the windshield!

I skip 4th a lot (lot's of traffic).

Other than that I wonder why the low speed gear backlash is so pronounced. That to me is a poor gear box design. I've had standard shift a better part of 20 years in all types of cars (including a bunch of VWya's - modified and stock).

 

I hope you realize how much torque and how low the "L" gear is on these trucks. Therefore the backlash.

 

with more than 500 ft lbs of torque, there is going to be backlash. Remember, these are TRUCKS, not pickups, not cars. These are close to being purpose built trucks, but lack the bland interior.

 

Well, that's true - I didn't really realize how close the SD series is. And I've never had a truck truck!

Close as I got is a F-150.......with the 86-302 with I think about 130hp

Backlash is it! rrrrRRrrrRRrrrRRR og the gears in low and first and second at slow speeds i presume.

Thanks for taking the time to explain. DVW

 

Ok now I have more time.
I had a lot of free play on mine as well and the problem was the clutch master cylinder was sloppy in it's shoulder. The whole assembly would move in and out as I operated the clutch pedal. This sounds like a redneck solution but what I did was wrap baling wire around the cylinder underneath the four ears that stick out and keep the master cylinder from plunging through the firewall when you step on the clutch. That alone brought the engagement point of the clutch to halfway up off the floor.