I posted about not being able to get my 83 F 150 started although it would turn over. Well, I think I found the culprit but I need some help. Is it possible a badly worn out distributor could cause it not to start? When I say badly worn I can move the shaft back and forth approx 1/4" or more inside the case. I've read teh repair manual but I can't seem to make heads or tails of it because mine doesn't match the wiring diagrams. The colors of the wires are different.
So, I need help!

 

Yes, a badly worn distributor can cause electrical problems. Especially if the armature is making contact or has worn into the pick-up coil. Here a handy thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...1&albumid=1232 , Franklin2, and subford, might have a electrical diagram.
-Buck-

 

Thanks but that isn't the ignition system I have. The Dura Spark III system doesn't have a pickup in the distributor. There is nothing in the distributor but the rotor. A friend aof mine is a long time Ford guy and ASE Mater mechanic. He has never seen this type of iginition system on a Ford. If you look at a schematic for a 1984 Ford it looks similar to what I have except the wire colors are different. Guess I'll replace the distributor and see if that fixes it since it needs replaced anyway.

 

A distributor shaft moving back and forth 1/4" would destroy the rotor and cap. The DS-III system would have been used on California vehicles with EEC and a crankshaft position sensor. Follow the instructions in the service manual for checking the DS-III system.

 

Torque - Thanks for the reply. I did everything the service manual said to do and everything checked out OK. I had a friend who is a mechanic re-check everything and he said it was good as well. The problem both of us are having is the wiring diagram doesn't really show all the parts to the system IE; crankshaft position sensor, and the wiring diagram wire colors are different than those on the truck. We even tried hot wiring directly from the coil and got nothing but cranking. I'm going to replace the worn distributor. I am at the point where, from what I can tell, it appears the way the rotor and cap work that because of the worn distributor it may not be getting the rotor in the right position with the cap to make the circuit. I know this may be a stretch but I do know for a fact that the ditributor is bad and that is the only thing I can find that isn't OK. Any other suggestions?

 

Can convert to a Duraspark II http://www.trailhed.com/duraspark%20upgrade.html

or make sure to also test the crankshaft position sensor - http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/2c/d3/0900823d800a2cd3.jsp

Definitely replace the distributor.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/...s/bl378lib.htm

 

Here is the diagram.

 

The ECA control's the ignition timing and advance. It gets a signal from a Crankshaft Position Sensor mounted over the 4 lobed Pulse Ring. The CPS is a simple coil wound magnet. If it fails, the engine won't start. You can easily test it in place with an ohm meter. It should test 100-640 ohms. If it tests open circuit, it's failed and is easy to replace.

If someone unfamiliar with this type of ignition did something as simple as change the plug wires without knowing what they were doing, it could make the engine run rough or not at all.

The firing order is normal 351w:

CCW 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

The the order the wires are arranged on the cap is:

CCW 1-5-7-8-6-3-4-2

This is because the EEC-III distributor has electrodes on both sides of the rotor. So it fires alternately from both sides. So even though it's wired in a different order, if you go back and fourth from one side to the other, the firing order is the same.

EEC-III is often misunderstood because it is overshadowed by the greater number of the more simple Dura Spark II ignition. EEC-III (Dura Spark III) is more complex, but is capable of controlling the ignition advance up to a maximum of 50 degrees advance and control the engine more efficiently. It was used in both carbureted and fuel injected engines.

Oh, and yes, there is a relay on the ECA to protect it from reversed battery polarity.
Also this system uses the module with the brown insulator on the underside a blue one will not work.

 

Duraspark III Wiring Diagram

 

Are you getting any spark to the plugs? subford it right on. If the CPS fails you won't get any spark. Also check and make sure that the plug wires are in the correct order as he posted.

The one adjustment that can be made to the EEC-III distributor is distributor alignment. It can be useful whether someone has monkey'd with your distributor or when you install a new one:

With the rotor removed, rotate the crank to align the smaller notch in the dist. shaft with the notch in the adaptor. With cyl #1 on compression stroke, the timing mark on the vibration damper should be plus or minus 4 degrees of TDC when the two notches are aligned.

So, with the notches aligned if you are within 4 deg of TDC, you're good and it's close enough.

If you are off by more than 4 degrees:

The procedure then is to turn the engine so the timing mark is at TDC and then loosen the two bolts holding the sleeve assembly on the distributor shaft. Then you can put a screwdriver in the notch in the shaft and turn it so the smaller notch in the shaft aligns with the notch in the adapter. Once aligned, tighten down the two small bolts on the sleeve assembly. You are supposed to use a special alignment tool that fits in both notches and holds them true. Eyeballing it works just fine as long as you don't disturb the alignment while tightening the two sleeve bolts.

Here's a photo showing the notches in the shaft and adaptor aligned. The two small bolts securing the sleeve can be seen on either side of the shaft.

 

Thanks SubFord!! I think I'm going to take the easy way out and do away with all of it. I'm going to get a points type distributor and a Crane Fireball electronic conversion kit and bypass all that other stuff. I think it will be more reliable and less hassle. What do you think about that idea? Thanks in advance!

 

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I posted a photo of it yesterday in the thread you started. Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Duraspark III

 

OK. I replaced this and still can not get spark. I do not know what else to try.
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Should there be 12v at the + & - side of coil when in the run position?
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