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Removing Front Brake Rotors

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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #1  
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Removing Front Brake Rotors

I did a brake job on a '98 Expedition this weekend for my uncle and thought I would share a tip for removing the rotors.

The problem is that there is a tight tolerance fit between the inside of the back of the rotor and the axle, and that gap gets all rusty and nasty over time. I spent at least an hour hammering on that thing trying to get it to come off before I figured out why it wouldn't.

Here's the trick:
Remove the brake caliper and caliper bracket. Then insert a large bolt through either caliper bracket bolt hole and thread a nut onto the bolt. Thread the nut up the bolt until the bolt begins the press on the back side of the rotor. Then tighten the bolt against the back of the rotor until you have a good amount of pressure on it, then use a hammer to smack the back side of the rotor. That should break the rotor free. You'll have to rotate the rotor several times and tighten the bolt, and hit it with the hammer again, until the rotor will come off.

Here's an example of what I'm saying:


Hope this helps!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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Good suggestion! Get it from both sides.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 05:56 PM
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Great tip. Those rotors can be hard to get off.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Thumbs up

Talk about timing... getting ready to do my front rotors this weekend. This is tremendous for me. THANKS !

What size bolts did you use?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 12:08 PM
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boy that would have saved me a lot of heartache by doing it that way
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JGM
What size bolts did you use?
I don't know the exact size. I want to say the hole is around 1/2" in diameter, so anything slightly smaller than that will work. You can probably go as small as 3/8" or so (with a bolt this small you'll need a washer or multiple washers behind the nut so it doesn't go through the hole)

I forgot to mention one thing: be careful not to use too much force when tightening the bolt. I imagine it would be possible to break one of those ears off, and then you'd need a whole new spindle/hub assembly! So just be careful, start off with less pressure and if that doesn't work, then increase the pressure. You can tell its working when you hit the rotor with a hammer and chunks of rust start falling out from behind the rotor.

Jeremy
 

Last edited by mmmchickenboy; Mar 7, 2006 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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I tried the bolt trick on my Exp a few months ago and I did not like the flexing I saw when I was applying a load onto the rotor.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:59 PM
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Talking

Jeremy, you were right on with your advise. Got some 1/2 bolts and 3/8 just in case. The 1/2 worked like a charm. Obtained 4" but 3" would work just the same. I have a '04 Expy.
TIP: I used washers during the process, suggest you do so you will not make unnecessary wear on the metal.
Had to turn it a couple of times and did not experience any flexing on the ears as stated on this thread even though there was plenty of pressure applied. As for the back rotors, a good couple of hits with my sledge hammer did the trick. I applied some anti-seize in hopes of not experience the headache in the future.

Thanks for the information !
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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glad to hear it worked for you!
 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 10:55 AM
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Is this the same for the AWD Expy's? I have a 2000 with AWD and it sure looks like I have to take off the spindle nut to get it off.

To clarify, the 4WD selector on my Expy has A4WD in what would be the normal 2WD position.
 

Last edited by koden; Apr 27, 2006 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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Yes, my Expy is a 4wd
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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OK, I got through the front brakes on my 03 EB Expy with this trick. I pulled off the back wheel and caliper thinking all this would be just as easy, except the dust shield is in between the rotor and spindle arm where the bolt hole is. Back to square one. Any ideas for this one?
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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^Your parking brake shoes (yes they are inside the rotor) are probably hanging it up. Beath the snot out of it while turning. If this doesn't work, you may have to pop out the little metal tab on the backing plate and adjust the shoes inward.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 98expeditionXLT
I tried the bolt trick on my Exp a few months ago and I did not like the flexing I saw when I was applying a load onto the rotor.
I agree. On one of mine it came off without the bolt. The other, tried the bolt trick, and it was stuck so bad that it looked like the brake bracket was going to break. Knowing how expensive the bracket it, decided to:

Pull out the sawzall.

Worked like a champ. Do a search on this subject, and you will see a thread with a ton of information.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mmmchickenboy
I did a brake job on a '98 Expedition this weekend for my uncle and thought I would share a tip for removing the rotors.
Never Mind
 
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