Oil pressure
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 169
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From: wichita kansas
Oil pressure
Can somebody please tell me where the oil pressure sending unit is? Went to international this morning for some filters and I was almost home when I realized I had no oil pressure. Truck ran fine. I didn't notice anything different and it didn't sound like nothing was knocking or valves ticking like it didn't have oil. When I find the pressure unit is there a way to test it? How about the gauge? Thanks in advance!!
BTW: When I do a search, every time it comes back page can not be found!
BTW: When I do a search, every time it comes back page can not be found!
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 509
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From: Pasco, WA
Near as I can tell from the drawings on the diagnostic CD, it's at the curb side of the high-pressure oil reservoir on top. Take the engine cover off (3 13mm cap nuts); the sender is just inboard of the alternator at the front of the engine.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: wichita kansas
[QUOTE=DaBigTow]Near as I can tell from the drawings on the diagnostic CD, it's at the curb side of the high-pressure oil reservoir on top. Take the engine cover off (3 13mm cap nuts); the sender is just inboard of the alternator at the front of the engine.[/QUOTE)Thanks for the info. I changed it and stiil no pressure. Do you know how to check the gauge?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Pasco, WA
When the sender has pressure, it grounds the signal to the gauge through a 20 ohm resistor at the instrument panel. The wire color is white w/ red stripe. All I can suggest is 1) check the resistance of the sender with an ohmmeter (infinite off, zero running), 2) take a wire jumper & short the sender wire to ground (that should move the gauge to mid-scale), 3) remove the instrument panel & check the wire behind it (left side connector, match the wire colors). You should consider purchasing an analog oil pressure gauge & temporarily plumbing it in before proceeding with any more testing; if your oil pressure is too low to operate the factory gauge, you have a problem...
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: wichita kansas
DaBigTow, an after market gauge was my next step. How do you plumb it in, I have never done this before? Do I use the same spot where the sender is? If I have little or no pressure wouldn't that mess with the injectors? Well I have to goto work. Thanks for the help and I'll check it some more tomarrow. Do I need a digital ohmmeter or will one with a needle work?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 509
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From: Pasco, WA
Plumb it in the same hole as the sender, replacing the sender. Yes, I'd expect some problems with the injectors, but if there's enough oil getting to the high-pressure pump, the injectors would likely work correctly. For the resistance test I suggested, any meter will work.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: wichita kansas
DaBigTow, I plumbed it in the same hole and got around 40 psi at start up. I am assuming that is good enough. Do you know what the range of pressure should be? Thanks again for the help!!
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,948
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From: SHELTON, WA
sounds like you fine. our pressure gauges arent true pressure gauges. they are either showing a reading or not. notice how its always in the same spot? you older guys 94-96 can turn your in dash gauge into a working one with the mod off of baz's site. if it where me i would just leave the mechanical one plumbed in. i believe 40 is very good at idle for these trucks. i recall hearing something that it should be 20 something or greater psi at idle.
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Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
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From: Southwest Georgia
As 1997F-350 stated, we do not have a true oil pressure or water temp gauge, they just sent out a siganal as the ground is increase with the temp. or pressure change and the PCM sends a selected voltage to the gauge to move the needle to what it thinks is right. Basically it is just an idoit gauge instead of a light. For a true reading, plumb in a mechanical oil pressure and temp. gauge. You can use a T where the sending unit is located and then put the sending unit on one side and the tubing to the gauge on the other.
Your engine, with the age that it has should have 16+ psi at idle, when at operating temp. 16 psi is enough to circulate the oil through out the engine at idle. You should have around 40 psi, when at operating temp. at 2000 to 2300 rpm.
40 psi with cold oil is about normal for a multigrade 40W at idle.
Your engine, with the age that it has should have 16+ psi at idle, when at operating temp. 16 psi is enough to circulate the oil through out the engine at idle. You should have around 40 psi, when at operating temp. at 2000 to 2300 rpm.
40 psi with cold oil is about normal for a multigrade 40W at idle.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
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From: Braham MN
See this pic. I plumb them in here.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67565506nEhoFn#
It's an electrical gauge but a mechanical will work just the same.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...67565506nEhoFn#
It's an electrical gauge but a mechanical will work just the same.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: wichita kansas
After felling safe to drive it I got up to operating temp and had a constant 40-55 psi. Then at idle it would drop to 20-25 psi. I tried to get behind the dash and check the gauge but I was affraid I was going to break the cover around the gauges. Oh well now I have a nother gauge to look at. Thanks for the help and info fellas!
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
the numbers that you got are good.
off the top of the hpop is a more accurate spot for the sender to be. just gotta get a -4 boss oring to 1/4"npt female adapter to put the sender in where the plug was in the top of the hpop
off the top of the hpop is a more accurate spot for the sender to be. just gotta get a -4 boss oring to 1/4"npt female adapter to put the sender in where the plug was in the top of the hpop