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boiling over???

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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 01:26 AM
  #31  
biz4two's Avatar
biz4two
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Arrow radiator cap

Originally Posted by Mil1ion
*Note: I want the credit when he figures out he has filled the rad too full
Mil1ion --
Not sure you will get the credit here. ...IMHO.

The way I see it...if the truck is "boiling" the coolant, over filling the radiator is not the cause. All that would happen and does happen when a radiator is over filled is it goes out the over flow hose and runs on the ground. No boiling...

Boiling the coolant usually is the radiator cap (as already suggested).

C G

A lot of good info here for sure. IF, you have an air pocket, one suggestion is to have the radiator cap OFF...and the heater in the defrost position on HIGH. This needs to be done so the coolant can flow the entire system. Be patient...this can take 15-30 minutes.

Agree...a 50/50 mix (distilled water and anti-freeze) should be used...ALWAYS!

Question(s):
What temp thermostat are you using?
Where is the temp gauge exactly? Middle of gauge...less than half? When it is boiling over...
What condition is your radiator? (Sorry, but have to ask)

TIP:
When you see the temp gauge start moving to the "normal" area...make sure to check the radiator hoses. Are they both "HOT" to the touch? If YES, then your thermostat is open and the coolant is flowing. If NO, then coolant is not flowing.

Good luck...and please report back.

biz
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 07:29 AM
  #32  
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User 71024
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Biz4two, this time of year having NO CAP shouldn't make it overheat unless there is another problem somewhere. Water boils at 212, that doesn't change in a 0 pressure system, and if he's making 212 at idle this time of year there is an issue somewhere. To sum up the thread in order of ease to fix;

t-stat upside down or defective
airlocked, just not getting it filled
clogged radiator fins or crap between the rad and condenser blocking airflow.

then the bad stuff;
clogged radiator
waterpump not pumping
head gasket or cracked head or block

I've never heard him mention if water was flowing threw the radiator unless I missed it. That would eliminate half the possibles.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:26 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by C G
ok now my heads starting to spin. so you guys are saying dont run an overflow bottle? dont use alot of antifreeze. dont fill to the top because with expansion it will just shoot out the overflow tube.
CG,

Its not complicated at all. For now all I would do is simply;

Install a rubber over flow tube from the nipple and down the side of the rad so if it does boil over it wont make a mess inside the engine compartment.

Fill coolant to spec.

Install a new cap then warm it up as recommended before.

Turn the engine off then just watch and listen.

After it’s cooled down remove cap and note coolant level.

This is not a fix just a test. It may be the first or it may be the last.

You can install a recovery system after.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 11:27 AM
  #34  
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Mil1ion
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Quote:
The way I see it...if the truck is "boiling" the coolant, over filling the radiator is not the cause. All that would happen and does happen when a radiator is over filled is it goes out the over flow hose and runs on the ground. No boiling...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


This is why I always say Terminology is everything when describing something on this site

Maybe Boiling is the wrong term ?

I remember a few times the term boiling was used and the coolant was actually Blowing out the rad.

To the trained experienced eye there is a difference to coolant *streaming by* or bubbling from other things.

Sometimes the problem is just the simplest thing
 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Mar 9, 2006 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:28 PM
  #35  
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well first of all you guys rock. thanks for all the tips. my 61 lincoln vert had cooling problems too but i just took it to a shop. shoulda just asked here. small recap...this thing has been nothing but a workhorse with basically no problems. just add a little tranny fluid now and then. boiling means boiling, not shooting or steaming. the old thermostat was on correctly and the new one is too. didnt just recently fill up the rad too far and bring this whole thing on. the gauge is a wee shy (left) of center. its only gotten a little higher once, when i was pulling a car trailer with a (i wont say what) on it. unfortunatly the fan on the inside of the truck barely works, but you can tell its warming up inside the cab. looking down into the radiator it does seem to be circulating. basically all seems like it should. i will try the new cap and hang a hose down the side so i dont get water all over the engine again. sometime saturday i will give you all the outcome....i wish i had prizes...lol...thanks again
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #36  
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Wash any antifreeze off that gets on the ignition components immediately. AF is a conductor and will cause all kinds of strange missing problems as the humidity changes.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Mil1ion
Quote:
Sometimes the problem is just the simplest thing
Mr. Mil1oin,

May I be so bold as to suggest that, MOST of the time "the problem is just the simplest thing".

Craig..................OUT<O
 
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 10:22 PM
  #38  
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Why retire? A head gasket job isn't that big a deal... Plus you can see if any coolant passages are getting plugged up with the head off. The hardest part is cracking exhaust manifold bolts loose. Warm the engine right up, then crack them loose. Works every time for me!
Mark
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #39  
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well here is what happened today. i poked a smallish hole in the thermostat. i put water in the rad but only enough to just cover the fins. then i let her run, it didnt take long and the water started to what looked like boil out, but when i felt the water it was still pretty cool. so i shut if off filled it back up a bit and let her run. within a couple of minutes it started to do it again. i put my rag and hand over it (water was just luke warm) when i pulled my rag away to check if it calmed down the water shot out like a geiser, as high as the open hood. shut her off and filled the rad up again. this time no geiser, no bubling at all. i probably let it run 45 minutes. no problems at all. i put on the new 13 lb cap. hooked up the overflow bottle and took her for a spin. when i got back all was still good. i took off the cap, no problems. i let her run for another half hour and no problems. sooooooo, im guessing air in the system. BUT, how did it get there? as far as putting on a new head gasket, i really dont like doing that kind of work. like i said this truck has really really done its duty, meaning shes really a beast and tossing any real money into her is just not a good idea.....thanks everyone for all their input. i hope i can help you guys out sometime.

mark
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 09:51 PM
  #40  
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trinogt
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Hope the air is out for good!
What you need is a buddy who likes to turn wrenches for fun (and is into Fords; a chebbie guy ain't as likely to put any care and attention into the details like torquing head bolts properly in stages! lol)

If you were nearby, I would definately give you a hand with most anything Ford related.

This forum is the best I can do for 99.9 percent of people who come here! I have yet to meet an FTE member out this way. Wish I had my FTE bumper stickers here to put on my car!
Mark
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 10:28 PM
  #41  
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air pockets

FYI, I bought a tool off the truck, just for air pockets. U drain the cooling system, hook-up this tool that fits on the radiator neck. It pulls a vacuuum on the cooling system. (just like doing a/c stuff). It uses shop air pressure to pull a vacuum. It has a gauge so u can tell how much vacuum there is. It also has a valve u can close, to see if the vacuum level drops. (leak check)Then u add coolant from a 5 gallon bucket. Just open the valve, and it fills fast , with a vacuum in the cooling system. I NEVER HAVE AIR POCKETS! Jeff with the weelky bills from Snap-on, MAC, MATCO.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2006 | 11:27 PM
  #42  
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Folks, am I missing something here? If you have a head gasket bad enough to let that much air in that quickly, a combustion gas test should be so positive as to leave no doubt real quick. Just run down to a radiator shop and ask them to do one. Its a little gadget that replaces the radiator cap. It has a bottle of liquid on top. You work the little pump handle and it sucks air out of the radiator and bubbles it through the liquid. If you have a bad head gasket, there is exaust gas in the radiator, and that will turn the liquid a different color.
Maybe its because I have a good relationship with my radiator folks, but I have never been charged for the test. Of course, if there is no exaust gas there, its usually a radiator problem and they get to fix it. Plus I usually slip them a couple of bucks. Even so, many times they won't take it.

J.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 01:13 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by C G
this time no geiser, no bubling at all. i probably let it run 45 minutes. no problems at all. i put on the new 13 lb cap. hooked up the overflow bottle and took her for a spin. when i got back all was still good. i took off the cap, no problems. i let her run for another half hour and no problems. sooooooo, im guessing air in the system...thanks everyone for all their input. i hope i can help you guys out sometime.

mark
C G --

Glad to hear the problem has been resolved. Good for you and your FORD!

Good luck!
biz
 
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:04 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ranger250Center
Folks, am I missing something here? If you have a head gasket bad enough to let that much air in that quickly, a combustion gas test should be so positive as to leave no doubt real quick. Just run down to a radiator shop and ask them to do one. Its a little gadget that replaces the radiator cap. It has a bottle of liquid on top. You work the little pump handle and it sucks air out of the radiator and bubbles it through the liquid. If you have a bad head gasket, there is exaust gas in the radiator, and that will turn the liquid a different color.
Maybe its because I have a good relationship with my radiator folks, but I have never been charged for the test. Of course, if there is no exaust gas there, its usually a radiator problem and they get to fix it. Plus I usually slip them a couple of bucks. Even so, many times they won't take it.

J.
hmm never heard of this before. while im out and about tomorrow i will stop in a rad shop and see if they offer this service...thanks
 
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