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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 10:50 PM
  #16  
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So I put the head back on and I put the rocker shaft on.... I adjusted the rocker arm clearance to be .045" The spec sheet said .085"-.185" That seems like way to much.... I set it at that .100" and I could jump the push rod out of the rocker cradle. I am not sure I did this right or not... I brought each piston up to TDC in firing order like Bdox said, and adjusted the valves while they were in the "neutral" postion. I guess I should have mentioned that when I cranked it up the other night my carb was bubbling, and then it would over flow..... Is this cuz the intake valves arn't sealing and pressure is coming back up through the intake???
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:23 PM
  #17  
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Recheck your valve clearance specs. I'm not well acquainted with your engine but unless you have hydraulic lifters, (do you? If so your manual should give you adj instructions.) clearances should be something like: .008" intake and .012" exhaust.

Your carb bubbling over is a separate problem. Probably you needle/seat valve, controlled by the float inside the carb is stuck open.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:26 PM
  #18  
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I have solid lifters... and I wiash I had a book
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 11:37 PM
  #19  
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OK, use my numbers for the valve adj. .008 intake and .012 exhaust. (The intake valves line up with the intake manifold, exhaust valves line up with the exhaust manifold.) This will be close enough, and safe to get you running.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 07:08 AM
  #20  
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As I remember except for some of the early 144cid engines these
all had hydraulic vavle lifters which would account for the .085 to
.123 clearences with the lifter collapsed. The recommendation to
go 8 and 12 is good to get it up and running. Once that happens
I would readjust them either by firing order to zero lash or running.
I prefer firing order because it isn't messy with oil flying around.
Running is easier, back the adjustment off until it clatters turn down
until it stops and slowly down another 3/4 of a turn. If you go to quick
you can cause the engine to stall. You simply do each valve that
way.
Engine off method requires you turn each cyl to TDC back off the adjuster
until you can detect lash with your fingers and turn down until it is gone
plus the 3/4 turn. Some guys have trouble feeling the lash that's why
running adjustment is easier. Except for the mess clean up itis quicker.
Hope this helps.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 11:08 AM
  #21  
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He said it's a 200 w/solid lifters. (?) I dunno. If it's hydraulics 8 & 12 thou might get it started but it will probably die as the lifters pump up. If so maybe back them off a quarter turn or so to keep it running so you can do the proceedure that Kotzy describes.

Anybody else out there know for sure what lifters the 200 has?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 05:06 AM
  #22  
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Maybe I don't have solid lifters, thats just what I had heard/ read. With everyones help, I got it started yesterday and it runs nice and smooth. I have to tweek on the carb a little bit, but it wasn't wanting to stall out on me like the other night... Thanks everyone for you help and being patient with me...

It's time now to kick back and open a cold one!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 09:26 AM
  #23  
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Way to go Falconman
 
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Old Mar 7, 2006 | 06:00 PM
  #24  
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And you wanted to quit shame on you! I'm real happy you stuck it out
good luck to you. We all feel better when these things work and it's darn nice
when the person involved comes back and tells of his success, so many times
they don't. Thanks to you.
 
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