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Howdy all, I posted this in another forum as well, but I think this is the more appropriate forum to post in.
Is there such thing as a sealant you can use to seal a threaded fitting on metal brake line? Teflon, silicon, epoxy? Just curious, I have a stubborn line that won't seal.
Brake lines use a tapered flare to form a seal, and not a tapered thread like an NPT pipe fitting.
if you cant get a seal, it means you either have bad flare, a burr on the fitting, or dirt on the connection.
IMO you should replace any questionable lines and fittings when brakes are involved. That said, I have heard of people who use teflon tape on bleeder fittings to keep them from seizing, but personally I like to use a dab of anti-seize.
Yep! I second Fordzilla. I use anti-seize to keep the threads from corroding. I avoid teflon tape on any sort of hydraulic system. His explanation as to the cause of the leak is right on, fix it properly.
Think safety, take no chances with a brake system.
If you have to double-flare a 3/16" brake line, get a _good_ flaring tool. I bought the Lisle double-flaring kit (which wasn't exactly cheap), and I just couldn't make it do a proper 3/16" flare. Finally, I borrowed a Ridgid flaring tool from a hydraulic shop, and that gave me a usable flare (using the Lisle die). I've heard there's a Weatherhead flaring tool that's similar (maybe identical) to the Ridgid. (They both have a second screw on the side that locks the clamp/press thing to the bar part of the tool)
Are there other double-flaring tools that are worth getting?
You could try PSP 565 threadlock (something like that) which drys like plumber's dope. Usually the fitting is munched and will leak no matter what you do. Or the fitting to fitting application is wrong.
Autozone sells this material that costs $5 a tube. Basically a leak repair epxoy that dries as hard as a rock. Applied to a fitting's thread it probably would stop the leak, but, render the fitting useless for removal later.
I have a WILDE #250DF that I bought at a tool store that has worked perfectly. The biggest problems I have seen is improper prep on the tube, and an improper length of the tubing protruding from the clamp b4 starting the flare. If that first "bulge isn't right your flare won't be right.
-BTW, The first bulging operation that you do leaves a nice hose retaining ridge for; transmission cooling lines, PS return lines, and fuel lines :-)
I shouldnt have responded to this thread!
I went to the lumber yard this morning and blew a steel brake line on the way home. I was 4 minutes late to catch the local auto supply place. (only place in town that sells brake lines and they close at noon on saturday) This is the second line in a month, so it looks like time for a total replacement. Last time I had a line made and installed for me because I was pressed for time and it was a fairly long run that would have required joining several stock lengths but it ended up costing me 2 hours of shop time.
Has anyone ever seen a place that just sells the die for double flaring?
I already have a good flaring tool that I use for copper, so it should work for a double flare with a double die (what are those things called anyway?).
You can buy the individual dies at a tool store that sells the entire tool. Make sure your flaring tool is a 45 degree flare and not a 37 degree flare. Brake systems use a 45 degree inverted flare fitting.
Thanks for all y'alls replies. I was working on a brake swap on my Mustang, and I had a conversion fitting that wouldn't seal right, brand new out of the box from the supplier.
Anyway, I ended up using Teflon tape, slap my hands already, but it sealed right up. No more leaks!
I found the "good" flaring tool at Home Depot, Ridgid #345. It doesn't include the dies for double flaring, but I'm going to try some local industrial and plumbing supply stores, and maybe get a chamfering tool as well.
Unfortunately even a new fitting out of the box can be manufactured incorrectly. What you have is a fitting that is sealing against the back side of the tube and the Teflon tape is providing a "semi-seal" for the straight threads. The Teflon tape can squeeze out of the joint over time. It also increases the surface area of the fitting that is exposed to brake line pressure that can lead to failure. Since this is a brake system the best thing to do is replace the fitting. Don't take any chances with leaks or inproper fittings in a brake system.
I would except that this fitting doesn't exist locally and I have to special order it from California at $30 a pop, so I'm not eager to spend that amount of money on a lil' piece of brass that only costs $2 in the first place.
The Teflon will have to work until I can find a local supplier.
You say brass? I hope you don't have to pull a panic stop with that faulty fitting. Brass can split wide open with the increasses stress. Brake parts should be steel or stainless for strength. And I have seen those brass line couplings, but I won't use them. What kind of special fitting is it?
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