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While I have the flywheel of the 1992 7.3 that I am going to put in my truck, I thought I would replace the rear crank seal since it looks like its leaking pretty some. It looks like I just need to remove the rear cover that the seal is pressed into and push the old one out and then press the new one in. From what I have read I need to push the new one in from the block side of the cover flush with the seal bore inner surface. Is there any tricks I should know about before I start? I do not have a seal pilot tool to put on the crank when I slide the new seal on. Is there any way to get it on safely without the pilot tool? Also, should I loosen the pan to do this job or just leave it tight. I bought a kit from NAPA that has the seal and cover gasket but just wanted to get some comments from some guys who have been there and done that before I started.
While I have the flywheel of the 1992 7.3 that I am going to put in my truck, I thought I would replace the rear crank seal since it looks like its leaking pretty some. It looks like I just need to remove the rear cover that the seal is pressed into and push the old one out and then press the new one in. 3. From what I have read I need to push the new one in from the block side of the cover flush with the seal bore inner surface. Is there any tricks I should know about before I start? 1. I do not have a seal pilot tool to put on the crank when I slide the new seal on. Is there any way to get it on safely without the pilot tool? 2. Also, should I loosen the pan to do this job or just leave it tight. I bought a kit from NAPA that has the seal and cover gasket but just wanted to get some comments from some guys who have been there and done that before I started.
1. I did not use a pilot tool.
2. I think you can leave it tight, but you will have to lossen the two bolts at the end because they are bolted into that rear plate cover.
3. Yes.
Also, make sure you get a good seal between the oil pan and hte rear cover, as well as the rear cover and the bellhousing adapter. I installed mine in a not-so-professional way. I got some soft wood and set it on the seal and gently tapped it into the cover. Worked fine, but you CANNOT dent it.
I removed the seal housing tonight and found that the crank was grooved pretty good from the old seal. According to the service manual the seal is to be pressed in from the block side flush with the seal bore. Well this seal was pressed in about an 1/8" past flush. If I install the seal at the proper depth, this should move the seal enough to keep it out of the groove. Will moving the seal be enough to keep my from having to sleeve the crank?
Go and buy the Ford seal kit it has the installation tool and a speedy sleeve to cover the crank wear points..... Rear seal kit F2TZ 6701 A The seal is removed and installed with the rear cover on using the special tool.........
I just went to the Ford dealer and ordered the kit. The parts guy said it did have the sleeve, seal, and some sealant but said he didn't think there was an installation tool in it. He said it did come with an instruction sheet though. Hopefully it does have the tool in it. Sometimes the part listing isn't very descriptive.
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