Sonnax / Tricumulator problem
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Sonnax / Tricumulator problem
Hi, I just installed the sonnax valve and tricumulator springs. Everything went well, but when I drive it seems like the shift points are all different. It winds up to 3500 rpms no matter how lightly the pedal is pressed before dropping to 2nd gear, only holds 2nd for a second and then drops to about 1000 rpms, into 3rd or OD. I think it's skipping 3rd altogether because while driving along at speed I can't get the rpms to change if I press the OD off button. Also, if I manually change the gear selector, it will drop from 2nd back into 1st when I shift from 2 into D. I can't downshift from OD into 3rd (or 3rd into 2), when I kick down the pedal the rpms shoot up about 500 rpms as thought it's getting ready to downshift, but then drop back to OD/3rd. Even when going up hills. The shifts are nice and firm, but I can't drive like this. I did check the fluid levels several times after driving and it's at the full mark when hot and I used Amsoil ATF. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dave
1997 F350 SRW 4x4 7.3 PSD
Thanks,
Dave
1997 F350 SRW 4x4 7.3 PSD
Last edited by DaveHuny; Feb 25, 2006 at 01:06 PM.
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From: Carson, Washington
Are you sure you put the right springs in the right places? I did mine a year ago and if I remember right there are certain springs that go to each spot. Also, did you make sure it was really clean when you put it together? Maybe one of the little pistons is stuck. Not questioning you machanical apptitude just what I would check for. It would suck to drain all that fluid back out but you will probably have to take it apart and reinstall it and see if it helps. Mine worked like a champ when I installed it a year ago. Still no problems. Best $50 I spent on the truck.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
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From: Braham MN
when you pulled it apart was there one spring or two in each bore????
the spring pressure is what determins the shift point/firmness.
also where did you get them from, and did the instuctions tell you to drill two small holes where the Sonix Valve went???
I had one that said to drill holes and now has a laggy reverse. it also had a broken spring in the 1-2 and would hold first very long like you describe.
Diesel Rod
the spring pressure is what determins the shift point/firmness.
also where did you get them from, and did the instuctions tell you to drill two small holes where the Sonix Valve went???
I had one that said to drill holes and now has a laggy reverse. it also had a broken spring in the 1-2 and would hold first very long like you describe.
Diesel Rod
Last edited by 444dieselrod; Feb 26, 2006 at 07:45 PM.
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Originally Posted by 444dieselrod
when you pulled it apart was there one spring or two in each bore????
the spring pressure is what determins the shift point/firmness.
also where did you get them from, and did the instuctions tell you to drill two small holes where the Sonix Valve went???
I had one that said to drill holes and now has a laggy reverse. it also had a broken spring in the 1-2 and would hold first very long like you describe.
Diesel Rod
the spring pressure is what determins the shift point/firmness.
also where did you get them from, and did the instuctions tell you to drill two small holes where the Sonix Valve went???
I had one that said to drill holes and now has a laggy reverse. it also had a broken spring in the 1-2 and would hold first very long like you describe.
Diesel Rod
There was nothing mentioned about drilling. Do you think I should yank the larger springs and just leave the smaller ones in? I haven't had time to pull everything apart yet.
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From: Braham MN
no I think you can leave both springs, that what we did on mine. some have one large spring, and you add the small spring. the early ones have two, where you replace the inner spring.
you can try taking out the large spring, as it will drop the pressure a bit see if that helps.
Is the gasket ok, I had one rip once and it was a PITA to get a new one, a ripped gasket could cause some weird things to happen also.
Diesel Rod
you can try taking out the large spring, as it will drop the pressure a bit see if that helps.
Is the gasket ok, I had one rip once and it was a PITA to get a new one, a ripped gasket could cause some weird things to happen also.
Diesel Rod
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Originally Posted by 444dieselrod
no I think you can leave both springs, that what we did on mine. some have one large spring, and you add the small spring. the early ones have two, where you replace the inner spring.
you can try taking out the large spring, as it will drop the pressure a bit see if that helps.
Is the gasket ok, I had one rip once and it was a PITA to get a new one, a ripped gasket could cause some weird things to happen also.
Diesel Rod
you can try taking out the large spring, as it will drop the pressure a bit see if that helps.
Is the gasket ok, I had one rip once and it was a PITA to get a new one, a ripped gasket could cause some weird things to happen also.
Diesel Rod
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From: Carson, Washington
That is wierd. Mine worked slick. I;ll have to go dig my instructions out and see if there was anyway to miss something.
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OK I'm super desperate for help now. I took out the inner springs, put the original valve back in, made sure the fluid is at the full mark when hot, and it DIDN'T MAKE A DIFFERENCE. The shifts are mushy like before, but it still doesn't know which freaking gear to be in.
Before I started in the transmission, I had to tighen the mounting bolts on the starter because it had come loose enough to disengage, and I unplugged the ground cables from the batteries so I wouldn't weld my ring to my finger while reaching up around the starter. Would resetting the PCM like this cause this kind of behavior??? I need to take this truck on a 1200 mile trip next week and I can't drive it like this.
Before I started in the transmission, I had to tighen the mounting bolts on the starter because it had come loose enough to disengage, and I unplugged the ground cables from the batteries so I wouldn't weld my ring to my finger while reaching up around the starter. Would resetting the PCM like this cause this kind of behavior??? I need to take this truck on a 1200 mile trip next week and I can't drive it like this.
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:idea:
These wouldn't be the problem, would they?
I found these on the bottom of my used oil catching pan after emptying it. Are these the rubber check ***** that go above the separator plate above the valve bodies?
These wouldn't be the problem, would they?
I found these on the bottom of my used oil catching pan after emptying it. Are these the rubber check ***** that go above the separator plate above the valve bodies?
Last edited by DaveHuny; Mar 1, 2006 at 08:38 AM.
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Now that you mention it (and I've had some time to think clearly) I did take the lower valve body off at first, but as far as I can tell there aren't supposed to be any ***** in between the upper and lower parts. I don't really see how the separator plate could have flexed enough to let these out, but I'll be removing that part tonight to see what's left of the rest of the *****. The 2 larger ones are the 8mm ***** that are specified, but I have no idea where the 3 smaller ones came from, if they came from this vehicle at all.
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From: pittsburgh pa
these check ***** go in the lower valvebody that is drop it down and you will see the pockets were they go the small ***** go in the center the 2 bigger ***** go on each end. if this doesn't fix the problem did you check to see the small valves in the accutmulator vavle body are free, it sounds like the 1,2 is stuck
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From: Braham MN
They go in the valve body???? not the thing you take off for the sonix valve and tri springs????? I have installed 4 of the sonix/spring packages and dont ever recall seeing any check *****. but all 4 trans shift great.
Just checking, trying to get this clear in my head.
Diesel Rod
Just checking, trying to get this clear in my head.
Diesel Rod
