clutch pressure
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Upstate NY
clutch pressure
I have a 99 f-350 with a 7.3L with a 6 speed, 165,000 miles. I have replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and ground the flywheel at around 100,000 miles. I have noticed on real cold mornings that the clutch petal it very soft and almost goes to the floor before the clutch disengages. It is not a consistant problem, what should i look for? Any help would be great! Thanks!
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: East Tennessee
Sounds like you have air in the line. May need to bleed the line. similar to bleeding your brakes. I can't remember if there is a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.
something to check out anyway.
Craig
something to check out anyway.
Craig
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: East Tennessee
OK, Thanks Kwikk. I remember when I put mine in I had the pin (that holds the line in the slave cylinder)out, and I just filledthe slave and put it on the truck. Then I had someone else pour brake fluid into the master and waited til I took a bath in it an then slipped it into the slave.
Brian 0445 ,I guess you could take it apart and do that, but I don't think it would be very much fun.
Craig
After rereading your original post I thought of this. Have you checked to see if clutch master cylinder reservoir is full?
Craig
Brian 0445 ,I guess you could take it apart and do that, but I don't think it would be very much fun.
Craig
After rereading your original post I thought of this. Have you checked to see if clutch master cylinder reservoir is full?
Craig
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Upstate NY
yes the clutch res. if full up to the top. I never had to add any fluid to the system. If I install a new unit does it come with everything and should i need any special tools? Looks interesting getting the fluid lines in and the slave in any recommendations? Does the clutch use anything off the vacume pump?
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
No special tool req'd for the job. It really is like a ten minute job. Maybe add twenty to stare at everything for a while and you end up with a half hour. Just don't take off the little plastic retainer on the clutch fork end. It is designed to break during the first press of the clutch pedal.
You *may* be looking at a new clutch. I'm assuming you went with the OEM setup since you had the old flywheel surfaced. There are two great clutch setups out there that use a larger 13" flywheel and a kevlar bushing instead of the roller pilot bearing. The LUK (which I have) and the South Bend (a lot of people swear by these, never heard anything bad) both come with the new flywheel, pressure plate, disk, t/o bearing, and kevlar bushing. The pedal pressure is literally half what the OEM is, but with a greater torque capacity due to the increased surface area of the pressure plate to flywheel contact area (13" vs 12" stock.)
It's the fact that it's intermittent that makes me think you might be looking at a new clutch. I'd try the master/slave first, then think about the $600 for the clutch setups.
You *may* be looking at a new clutch. I'm assuming you went with the OEM setup since you had the old flywheel surfaced. There are two great clutch setups out there that use a larger 13" flywheel and a kevlar bushing instead of the roller pilot bearing. The LUK (which I have) and the South Bend (a lot of people swear by these, never heard anything bad) both come with the new flywheel, pressure plate, disk, t/o bearing, and kevlar bushing. The pedal pressure is literally half what the OEM is, but with a greater torque capacity due to the increased surface area of the pressure plate to flywheel contact area (13" vs 12" stock.)
It's the fact that it's intermittent that makes me think you might be looking at a new clutch. I'd try the master/slave first, then think about the $600 for the clutch setups.
