Using not only the same retailer, but the same pump too, can make a difference. I fill my truck from 'E' about every 5 days, so, it is something I have opportunity to keep an eye on without forgetting. when my guage is fully on the red, it should take about 87 liters, last time I filled, it was just barely on the red and it took 90.7 liters; the tank is 91 liter capacity... I will not be using that particular pump again.

 

furball69, I like your fuel mileage program! Can you add lifetime mileage? Also oil change mileage would be nice! Thanks

 

I can look into it; I know the lifetime mileage can be done, just not sure if I can do it, as it would require some form of database or spreadsheet to be created and stored on the HD. I only program occasionally, to pass time, so my skill level may not be adequate.. Not sure what you mean by oil change mileage though... it's late. Or do you mean fuel used and miles driven during the oil change interval?

 

I'm pretty much interested in my gas mileage only when I do a road trip.

I know pretty much what I get in my daily driving, but driving, say to Alaska, that's when I want to know what I'm getting.

BTW, in '83. I did drive to Alaska and back (10,000 miles) and did average just a bit over 19 mpg.

 

Results of 19 MPG, not bad for a Ford Pinto, i'm proud of ya Ben.
Mileage divided by gallons used times 15% to 25% for fudge factor, there that looks about right. I pulled 18.3 MPG out of a 360 69 3/4 ton, added a gallon after it ran out of gas then drove between 38 and 40 mph.
Went to Redding and back at 6.7 mpg but then speed was between 75 and 110, average 92 mph.
.....=o&o>.....

 

Beemer Nut, I don't think Alaska allows Pintos into their state.

This is my 81 f150 that got 19+ on that trip, though the canadian border guards didn't mind my truck passing through, but did question me.

Cool site you gave me (Northerbrewer)

 

A friend of mine filled his F250 on a slant at the station, came back but filled going the other direction. Told me he filled until gas spilled out both times and got 21 mpg.

Ben, check out http://brewery.mvlan.net, on their page go to Directory of other homebreweries. There is one fully automated, ya that's what I want.
I gots to go before the wife beats me again.
.....=o&o>.....

 

Continuing to fill your tank after the automatic shut off stops flow is detrimental to the fuel vapor return system. Being consistent is what counts, so I guess you can go with consistently over-filling or consistently pulling it out after the auto shut off has stopped. I don't care if it's $74.93, I won't try to put the $0.07 in... I pay with credit or debit cards anyway, so it doesn't matter.

 

"fuel vapor system", what would that look like as i'm talking about mileage differences between a 67 and 68 FE powered CS's?
.....=o&o>.....

 

Betcha he never tells you of the 4mpg tank!

 

That's called the 40% fib factor added to the mileage.
.....=o&o>.....

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkstuck

furball69, I like your fuel mileage program! Can you add lifetime mileage? Also oil change mileage would be nice! Thanks

I've written an Excel spreadsheet that keeps track of averages, you can copy the individual sheets to make an extra for tracking OCI or other vehicles as well.

http://members.shaw.ca/dvdguy/software/fuel/mileage-log.xls


Actually, they should cycle open and closed if operating properly. When the engine is started, the water around the cylinders and head/s gets hot, the tstat opens and the cold water from the rad is cycled to the engine and hot to the rad, the cold water from the rad closes the tstat until it heats up, at the same time the hot water that is now in the rad gets cooled. I didn't actually realize this until I watched a real temperature gauge on one of our rig engines, a I6 300, it will cycle from 210ºF to 200ºF or lower when the tstat is opened then back to 210ºF and so on. The change is almost instant and can be seen quite clearly so I'm sure it is not an anomaly.

If the t-stat is always open and normal operating conditions of the engine are +100ºF ambient temperature, and the engine is kept in normal operating temperature, the same 'always open' t-stat in an operating environment of -35ºF ambient temperature will fairly obviously not allow the engine to stay warm, so it must cycle open and closed.