80's alternator question read: "FIRE"
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 386
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From: Garnett, KS
80's alternator question read: "FIRE"
A co-worker and I were talking about the alternator on my 84 F-150. He worked a NAPA for a while and said that these particular alternators were real bad about catching things on fire because of the plugs that attach to the back of the alt. He said that when you get a replacement alt, they send new connector plugs with them. Is this true??
I was thinking about upgrading to a 3g alternator eventually...do they have the same problem? I wouldn't think so......
Frank
I was thinking about upgrading to a 3g alternator eventually...do they have the same problem? I wouldn't think so......
Frank
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Bueller
A co-worker and I were talking about the alternator on my 84 F-150. He worked a NAPA for a while and said that these particular alternators were real bad about catching things on fire because of the plugs that attach to the back of the alt. He said that when you get a replacement alt, they send new connector plugs with them. Is this true??
You can also get a replaceable diode bridge that has a stud instead of a plug for the 2G.
Originally Posted by Bueller
I was thinking about upgrading to a 3g alternator eventually...do they have the same problem? I wouldn't think so......
Frank
Frank
Did not the 84 F-150 have a 1G alternator with a stud?
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 386
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From: Garnett, KS
LOL, I dunno......we were just bs'n at work....I will look though. Studs coming out of the ALT right? That seems familiar now that I think about it....
I didn't know that's how they classified them; 1g,2g,and so on. What's the approx years that they switched them around?
Since I'm here and asking stupid questions, I've got a couple more if someone is in the answering mood:
-Is there anyway to tell how many amps an automotive alt makes? I know on the stuff I work on, you just unplug the regulator, set the voltmeter to AC amp and stick the leads on the two stator leads with the engine at idle-3000 RPM. Would it be possible to maybe use an inductive pickup with the meter for cars? Or could I do it the same as the bikes? (Not even sure if I remember seeing a regulator under the hood.........)
-How big of an ALT would I need to charge 2 batteries? I'm planning on adding several electrical accessories in the future (winch, aux lights, electric fan, cb, scanner, etc) The master plan is to get one of those kits from summit for a $100, and I read you can run them in series with the switch in a certain position. I suppose as long as I can run all my electrical off of one battery, it wouldn't be a big deal.....hmmmm
Any comments,suggestions,concerns? Thanx!!
Frank
I didn't know that's how they classified them; 1g,2g,and so on. What's the approx years that they switched them around?
Since I'm here and asking stupid questions, I've got a couple more if someone is in the answering mood:
-Is there anyway to tell how many amps an automotive alt makes? I know on the stuff I work on, you just unplug the regulator, set the voltmeter to AC amp and stick the leads on the two stator leads with the engine at idle-3000 RPM. Would it be possible to maybe use an inductive pickup with the meter for cars? Or could I do it the same as the bikes? (Not even sure if I remember seeing a regulator under the hood.........)
-How big of an ALT would I need to charge 2 batteries? I'm planning on adding several electrical accessories in the future (winch, aux lights, electric fan, cb, scanner, etc) The master plan is to get one of those kits from summit for a $100, and I read you can run them in series with the switch in a certain position. I suppose as long as I can run all my electrical off of one battery, it wouldn't be a big deal.....hmmmm
Any comments,suggestions,concerns? Thanx!!
Frank
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
most alternators are stamped on the housing for amperage output.
make sure the alternator is at least the size of the normal power requirement. if you are going to be driving all the time with 100 amp draw from off road lights and stereo amplifiers, you will need a 120 amp alternator at minimum.
plus a dual battery with isolator is not a bad idea. run all the accessories of the isolated battery. this way you will always have a charged battery for starting if it is hooked up properly.
make sure the alternator is at least the size of the normal power requirement. if you are going to be driving all the time with 100 amp draw from off road lights and stereo amplifiers, you will need a 120 amp alternator at minimum.
plus a dual battery with isolator is not a bad idea. run all the accessories of the isolated battery. this way you will always have a charged battery for starting if it is hooked up properly.
