After just filling up my '04 F250 PSD for just under $90, I've made the decision to begin brewing my own biodiesel. I just have a few questions for you guys far more experienced than I. First, my reference states that ethanol is preferable to methanol because methanol can screw with any rubber fuel line components. Does my rig have any rubber fuel line components, or can I safely use methanol. Second, of all the reading that I've done on the topic, this is perfectly safe to run in my rig, but I wonder if I will have any problems with power, computer sensors, mileage (though at ~$.50/gallon who cares), filters, clogged injectors, etc.... It's my understanding that there is no difference in any of these issues between biodiesel and petroleum diesel, just wanted to make sure. $40K is a lot to spend on a truck, and I'd sure hate to have to put a new engine in it. Thanks for the help.

 

Your manufacture askes that you have no more than 5 percent. There is now way for them to tell if you have to take it into the shop under warranty, just put dino fuel in. Biodiesel.org will help you. Please read just for your own comfort. You need not worry about fuel lines nor orings because they newer product that is able to handle bio. Injectors dont care, this stuff is a natural super lube. Your final batch will be run through a 5 or 10 micron filter so there shouldnt be any foreign objects in your lines. Only worry about what junk is already in there, it will flush it all out.

 

Welcome Chief 90, METHANOL is the preferred alcohol to use. Ethanol can be used but it must be 100 percent, and it is real hard to get that. The GOV does NOT like people making it without a license! FORD started using Viton lines in 1990 so fuel lines are not a problem on your truck. I've been making and using biodiesel for 2 years now with great results, more power,quieter engine, better milage.

You should start here: http://www.biodieselcommunity.org Then revue the posts on this forum and start asking questions. Welcome to The Wonderful World of Biodiesel ! And good luck ! FABMANDELUX.

 

Ahh listen to Fab, he is the king of making this stuff from nothing.

 

when switching from dino to bio, do you recommend slowly mixing larger and larger percentages, or would you just go straight B100 and get it over with?

 

Well.............If you knew me you would'nt have to ask! My friends would say I go at things like I'm killing snakes............I jumped right in with both feet, but doing it a little at a time if it makes you more comfortable is fine also. You don't have to fit your life around biodiesel. It's simple,and you can make as much or as a little as you need. Just remember to change fuel filters in the first tank or two. Good luck! FABMANDELUX

 

I was also thinking or adding a second filter/water seperator between the tank and the factory filter. is this just overkill?

 

Overkill, After the 2nd filter change I'm back to normal changes, and hav'nt seen anything in the filters i've taken off. But I filter my bio to 2 microns before it goes to my main tank. FABMANDELUX.

 

As y'all can see from my post count, I'm an FNG around here. Literally and figuratively! I just moved to Salinas from Sandy Eggo and am about to fly down and pick up an 02 F350 PSD. I live in an apartment, so there's no room for me to brew my own BD.

Anyone in the Salinas/Santa Cruz/Monterey area that I can 'go halvsies' with? Buy 'leftover?'

M

 

Thanks for the info fellas. I made my first batch of "Dr. Pepper" today and it seemed to work out fine. Washing, however, didn't seem to go well in that I followed the instructions and washed five times yet I still ended up with quite a lot of soap in the final product. I dried it with a submerged aquarium pump which worked great to not only dry it, but that's when I discovered the residual soap. So I guess I just needed a little better wash. Does the bubblewash/dry method work that well on a larger scale as well? Also, where does one find the proper filters? Thanks again for the help/advice, I'm thinking this is going to be one of the best moves I've made in a while.

 

I don't wash so I don't have a soap problem. FABMANDELUX.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm pretty new to this stuff. If you don't wash, do you need to worry much about impurities or water, or is the mix precise enough (through titration, pH, or specific gravity) that it's not an issue. The reason I ask is I'm curious if I even need to get a wash/dry barrel, or if I can just make sure that I do a good mix, drain the glycerol, strain/filter the bio and go.


Another stupid question: If I do the hot water heater processor, how do I know when the reaction is complete. Is there a set time (12 or 24 hours) that it needs to set.

Thanks

 

My system is completly different than any you'll find on the net. I don't use a processor made from a hot water tank, that is called an "appleseed" processor. In an appleseed processor you cannot ''see" the reaction so you must let it settle till your sure it has reacted compleatly. Another problem with the appleseed is if you use NaOH [lye], the one used the most, it becomes a solid below 90f. If you leave the "mix" in the processor too long than how do you get it out? With my system I'm done mixing in 30min! I also use KOH "caustic soda", it stays liquid at least to 25f, so I never worry about not being able to pour it out. I let it settle out for 12 hrs, than pump the bio off the top. The biodiesel than goes to a main settling tank for 1 week. After 1 week it is filtered to 2 microns and goes to a 2nd settling tank for 3 weeks, after that period of settling it goes through a second 2 micron filter and is ready for use. If you get a complete reaction 95 percent of the methanol and Lye is locked into the glycerol. By letting it settle over time the small amount of methanol left in the bio evaporates off, and any Lye settles out on the bottom. I've had 2 batches tested and both met ASTM specs. Hope that answers your questions. FABMANDELUX.

 

Fabman, doesnt not washing take longer since you let it sit for 3 weeks? seems like a waste to me when you could just wash it and let it dry overnight or for up to 2 days instead of havind to let it sit for 3 or 4 weeks like u say you do.

 

Maybe for some one who only brews 30-50 gal/week. Standard practice for washing biodiesel calls for using 30 percent water-70 percent biodiesel X 3 washes. I make 3-500 gal/week: at 400 gal average X 30% water = 120 gal water x 3 washes =360 gal of water contaminated with soap, Methanol, and Lye. That would be 1,440 gal to dispose of each month!

The other thing that has bothered me is the addition of ANY water to my fuel! Both ways are discribed all over the web, and both ways seem to work just fine. I think most people want to use their bio as soon as possible so they opt for washing, that does not make it the holy grail. If you do the same amount of oil each week than as soon as the first 3-4 weeks are up you get that same amount each week.

My system works for me, everybody has to find what works for them.
I just like the fact that I get very good bio without the waste water problem,and I don"t add any water to my clean fuel.