welding floor patch panels
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From: GANS
welding floor patch panels
I need to replace my driver's side outer cab floor on my '84 f150 (the part with the lip for the weatherstripping) and cab corners.
I need to pickup some argon/co2, but I am wondering what is the best way to weld these in. I am thinking butt welding them would produce better results, but would be harder to do than over lapping them and spot welding the panels.
any suggestions? i'll be doing this with my lincoln pro-mig 135..
I need to pickup some argon/co2, but I am wondering what is the best way to weld these in. I am thinking butt welding them would produce better results, but would be harder to do than over lapping them and spot welding the panels.
any suggestions? i'll be doing this with my lincoln pro-mig 135..
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Let's see, I've done it just about anyway there is to do it (Pop rivets, construction adhesive, plug welds, lap welded, brazed in, etc.). It really comes down to skill level, time, and how picky you are. For show cars, definately butt welding is the only way, for plow trucks, pop rivets and construction adhesive. The thing to remember is rust prevention with what ever method you choose. If you go butt weld, get (or make) a copper backing plate to help with the welding process - they work great! If you overlap, don't make the lap very big as that's just more area for water to get into.
For your cab corners, please (pretty please) do not use the whole thing. Cut them down to just big enough. Also, being much more visible, I would go with the butt weld method. Box removal is necessary for a good job.
For your cab corners, please (pretty please) do not use the whole thing. Cut them down to just big enough. Also, being much more visible, I would go with the butt weld method. Box removal is necessary for a good job.
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by bterry
Let's see, I've done it just about anyway there is to do it (Pop rivets, construction adhesive, plug welds, lap welded, brazed in, etc.). It really comes down to skill level, time, and how picky you are. For show cars, definately butt welding is the only way, for plow trucks, pop rivets and construction adhesive. The thing to remember is rust prevention with what ever method you choose. If you go butt weld, get (or make) a copper backing plate to help with the welding process - they work great! If you overlap, don't make the lap very big as that's just more area for water to get into.
For your cab corners, please (pretty please) do not use the whole thing. Cut them down to just big enough. Also, being much more visible, I would go with the butt weld method. Box removal is necessary for a good job.
For your cab corners, please (pretty please) do not use the whole thing. Cut them down to just big enough. Also, being much more visible, I would go with the butt weld method. Box removal is necessary for a good job.
I guess I was right. I want something strong and hard to rust out in two days..I have the box off due to a frame on buildup. I was definatly only using the bottom 4-6" for the cab corner..
btw, does copper help disapate the heat (and warppage) as well as keeping the weld in the right place??
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Theoretically the copper would dissipate heat and all that, but I find it very hard to get enough surface contact to do much good in that regard. Mainly good to keep from burning through - or at least when you do, the molten metal doesn't go far, and you can weld it in.
Be careful getting it to hot. I basically spot weld the whole thing in, going back to weld each place that has'nt been welded yet. I use the "if you can touch it - it's too hot" method (if there is such a method... well there is in my shop). The finished weld will look much like a tig weld (but different).
Be careful getting it to hot. I basically spot weld the whole thing in, going back to weld each place that has'nt been welded yet. I use the "if you can touch it - it's too hot" method (if there is such a method... well there is in my shop). The finished weld will look much like a tig weld (but different).
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Originally Posted by bremen242
...slight gap between panels or butt them...?
BTW - The only time you would ever need gaps (and you rarely ever do), would be to ensure full weld penetration. I don't think you'll have an issue with penetration - it's usually the other way around when welding sheet metal.
