pouring a new floor

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Nov 10, 2002 | 04:47 PM

#16

Paso1

Tuned

Joined: Dec 2001

Posts: 431

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From: Saskatoon sk

pouring a new floor

Thanks Guys I thought of hanging the hose to the re-bar. and have the rebar on the little stands solving one problem. I just was thinking of not using the re-bar to avoid the hassle if I'm forced to remove the slab. But I guess I will do it with re-bar. Hey million I thought you were in Calgary

Here in Saska-bush is not much climate change differance than Calgary. You get more schnooks

Nov 10, 2002 | 09:17 PM

#17

trinogt

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Joined: Apr 2001

Posts: 2,364

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From: Eustis FL

pouring a new floor

Does no one use WWM (welded wire mesh) anymore, or what??? Placed in lower third of concrete thickness (concrete is strongest in compression, but very weak in tension), this will work for a house basement slab or a garage floor. I have always run a slab thickening around the perimeter (garage) with twin 10 mm rebar reinforcement, and the rest WWM. Heating coils can be tied to that. Depending on size of slab, you may need two or more 'zones' of piping to adequately heat the space.
Sometimes I have boxed in a hole in the center and sloped the concrete toward the sump to keep water frome freezing at the OH door. Most folks slope the entire slab to the door. In a heated garage, it isn't always a good idea, since you will be driving in with snow on your vehicle sometimes.
I would love to have slab heat in my garage, but it was poured without the pipe! I am stuck with a plan for forced air unit... *sigh*
Mark

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Nov 10, 2002 | 09:19 PM

#18

trinogt

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From: Eustis FL

pouring a new floor

Paso, where in SK are ya? I used to live in Marshall, and took 'welding' in Lashburn while in junior high. Both are on highway 16 (Yellowhead)
Mark

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Nov 10, 2002 | 09:41 PM

#19

Mil1ion

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pouring a new floor

Mark, The reason I didn't mention wire mesh is because of the diffulty of removing it compared to re-bar.
He mentioned MIGHT have to be removed later.

Unless you have a high-hoe you are limited to small bites of concrete
otherwise the large pieces are beyond the limits of the hydraulics and weight limits of a Bobcat.

Plus, a cut here and it's moved.

With mesh, you end up with multiple wire cuts.

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Nov 10, 2002 | 10:24 PM

#20

trinogt

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From: Eustis FL

pouring a new floor

He said it might have to be removed later??? I couldn't find that in his post...
Mark

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=5362&.jpg
Ford started it; Ford will finish it!

Nov 10, 2002 | 10:35 PM

#21

Mil1ion

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pouring a new floor

Paso's post, not the original.

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Nov 23, 2002 | 05:48 PM

#22

rocky

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Joined: Nov 1999

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pouring a new floor

You may also want to install anchoring points in the floor , that way you can winch heavy materials around as needed.

Nov 25, 2002 | 02:17 PM

#23

sluggo36

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Joined: Jul 2002

Posts: 98

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From: Parker, Colorado

pouring a new floor

A little dead horse beating here, a 6 sack mix with Stealth fibre-mesh will work fine. In floor heat is great aslo. However PEX pipe or copper should be used. The slab will expand and contract as it is heated and cooled and can break PVC piping. Also, the water temp into the slab should not exceed 130 degrees F or you wil have a lot of cracks. I would use 6x6 wire fabric if you do not use fibre-mesh in the top half of the slab to prevent surface cracking.

Good luck!