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i had a radioactive ph8 go bad last year on one of my 460s...at first i noticed my dipstick shine like metallic paint in the sun...it was close to 3k and i was real busy and let it go...when i changed the oil it was a lot worse that i had thought so i cut the filter open for inspection (big mistake)...thankfully no metal chunks or shavings just normal wear...the problem with the filter was either the bypass was stuck open or what i think was that the filter media was too bunched up and was not flowing...the mistake i made was opening the filter because when i called fram to complain and told them i opened it i pretty much shoot myself in the foot for looking for any damages
before this happened i was a big fan of fram: cheap, i loved that black coating on the end, advertising on eye catching box...afterwards, i cannot even use their better quality filters which i hear r pretty good (night and day difference between the orange)...regardless, i still havent learned my lesson until last week when i believe an stp collapsed on me grenading the engine on my pon bonneville...i will be sending that back for analysis...motorcraft from now on
i had a radioactive ph8 go bad last year on one of my 460s...at first i noticed my dipstick shine like metallic paint in the sun...it was close to 3k and i was real busy and let it go...when i changed the oil it was a lot worse that i had thought so i cut the filter open for inspection (big mistake)...thankfully no metal chunks or shavings just normal wear...the problem with the filter was either the bypass was stuck open or what i think was that the filter media was too bunched up and was not flowing...the mistake i made was opening the filter because when i called fram to complain and told them i opened it i pretty much shoot myself in the foot for looking for any damages
before this happened i was a big fan of fram: cheap, i loved that black coating on the end, advertising on eye catching box...afterwards, i cannot even use their better quality filters which i hear r pretty good (night and day difference between the orange)...regardless, i still havent learned my lesson until last week when i believe an stp collapsed on me grenading the engine on my pon bonneville...i will be sending that back for analysis...motorcraft from now on
So what actually happened to the filter? You say you opened it up, but then say "either the bypass was stuck open or the media bunched up" - which is it?
Not to be a pain or anything, I'm just wondering what's going on?
it was a while ago and i was not to careful in opening up the filter (i think that was my first time opening one up or bad day)...so after getting it open i think i messed around with the bypass before checking its operation and the pleats looked so scrunched up together that oil was not getting through...in hindsight i wish i would have just taken it off and sent it to fram...regardless, the filter was not doing its job because i had metal floating around
i was able to get the stp off my car and it did not collapse...however, it wont hurt to still send back...maybe the bypass was not working
Some day some body will prove to me how the oil can drain out of a filter that the opening is straight up on..... I don't by the siphon it out theory either...
There's really no need for an anti-drainback valve on a filter that can't drain back...unless you defy the law of gravity.
it prevents the oil in the galleries from returning to the pan. its a one way valve. without it the upper end has to suffer without oil for 1-2 seconds.
it prevents the oil in the galleries from returning to the pan. its a one way valve. without it the upper end has to suffer without oil for 1-2 seconds.
Imagine that...I would think that the head-pressure (atmospheric) would be greater in the filter than in the galleries.
Is this what most folks consider "the siphoning effect"?
it prevents the oil in the galleries from returning to the pan. its a one way valve. without it the upper end has to suffer without oil for 1-2 seconds.
What's funny about that is the mains/rods will seep all the oil out anyway, probably.
Which is why we're agani discussing this after all this time.
Add to that, that the oil filter will only siphon itself out until the oil level reaches the top of the media and the media starts passing air.
But the ADB in the filter is there for a reason, or else the pencil pushers would have removed them long ago.
Fredvon, there are no ball-valves anywhere in the V10 oil system is there?
KREWAT asked "Fredvon, there are no ball-valves anywhere in the V10 oil system is there?"
Not that I know of and I am still searching after 5 years for any engineering drawings that would show me the oil passages, flow directions and like. Dry hole every time I search for it.
I know that the FL820S is on a lot more motors then the modular V10 an I assume a few of them are angle or side mount above the pan. I know that on many different motors oil filter drain back is an issue. I am just not convinced that it is with this oil filter mount location (below pan average oil depth) or orientation (intake and outlet straight up).
Here is just my basic logic. I assume that the pickup in the pan has oil being sucked into it by the oil pump and the first distribution of the oil under pressure is to the filter. From the filter it is distributed to all the areas under pressure where it then flows by gravity back to the pan. With the filter located where it is once the pressure is removed any oil in all those galleys and passages above the filter will want to fall back toward the filter where it came from.
Now that I describe this assumed flow, maybe I answered my own question... the oil in any passage leading back to the filter would flow by gravity back to the filter and if no ADB valve will flood the filter and oil will flow in reverse from the filter back to the pump, back flushing the crap that was trapped sending contaminated oil to the pump vanes (not a good thing).
So I say that the issue probably is not about lack of oil in the upper passages (there are hundreds of motor designs out there that totally flow out every time the motor is stopped). The reverse flow can contaminate the oil in the pump and the ADB valve would prevent this. Thus I think the engineers planned for the ADB valve regardless of filter orientation or level.
ON the topic of oil. I use the MC 5W20 and change it every 25-2800 which is usually every 4 months with 5 months and 3100 being the longest yet. Is there reason to change oil at the magical 90 days if I am only at 18-2000 miles? I own 3 vehicles and 2 bikes making 3000 miles in 90 days tough without traveling.
Now that I describe this assumed flow, maybe I answered my own question... the oil in any passage leading back to the filter would flow by gravity back to the filter and if no ADB valve will flood the filter and oil will flow in reverse from the filter back to the pump, back flushing the crap that was trapped sending contaminated oil to the pump vanes (not a good thing).
Where it came from in the first place? How much could that be at "seepage pressure"? What can be "broken loose" around the filter element that could be as harmful as what the pump has previously pumped?
Maybe I should have been here during the first discussion...
I'm not opposing the requirement for the ADB valve, just wondering why the big fuss over it for the Triton engine.