Loose wire on O2 Sensor?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Anaheim USA
Thanks guys!
Silly question...Does my heater have to work to pass smog? I think when the tech was testing my truck,(which failed, and probably need a new Cat converter because of high Carbon..haven't fixed yet) I thought he had turned on the heater for some reason.
Reason I'm asking? I was driving to the store yesterday I had the heater on and smoke started coming out of the air vents,,big time!
HOW a fire? Would leaves get into that compartment? Short circuit?
I pulled over as soon as I was able, turned the key off,opened my hood and saw a little fire in my heater core where the Fusible Link plugs into it. Threw water on it to put out the fire,but that toxic smell ruined my day! I have an after marker ARA Air conditioner which hasn't worked for years, but I will miss my heat.
1986 Ranger / 4-banger / 2.3 / 5-speed / 144,000miles
Silly question...Does my heater have to work to pass smog? I think when the tech was testing my truck,(which failed, and probably need a new Cat converter because of high Carbon..haven't fixed yet) I thought he had turned on the heater for some reason.
Reason I'm asking? I was driving to the store yesterday I had the heater on and smoke started coming out of the air vents,,big time!
HOW a fire? Would leaves get into that compartment? Short circuit?
I pulled over as soon as I was able, turned the key off,opened my hood and saw a little fire in my heater core where the Fusible Link plugs into it. Threw water on it to put out the fire,but that toxic smell ruined my day! I have an after marker ARA Air conditioner which hasn't worked for years, but I will miss my heat.
1986 Ranger / 4-banger / 2.3 / 5-speed / 144,000miles
Last edited by bozo4ford; Mar 23, 2006 at 12:30 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: South Jersey
There are two posible causes of the fire....
Leaves do get in there and will burn, also the connector for the blower can corrode and cause a fire. Just an FYI, water is never good for an electrical fire.
Leaves do get in there and will burn, also the connector for the blower can corrode and cause a fire. Just an FYI, water is never good for an electrical fire.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
There is a resistor pack that has wires in parallel/series to create resistance... thus varying the speed of the fan. It can get hot. It generally plugs into the firewall side of the heater plenum. If your fan only works on one speed (high) it is probably toast. Heh.
The heater does not have to work to pass the test. All the emissions gizmos must be present and functional to pass the inspection.
Did you try removing and cleaning the inside of the intake manifold with spray cleaner? I have heard of something called Seafoam, that you let the intake suck in thru PCV or other fitting, but have never used it. If you have high HC, it is too rich. Either misfire, or extra fuel.
tom
The heater does not have to work to pass the test. All the emissions gizmos must be present and functional to pass the inspection.
Did you try removing and cleaning the inside of the intake manifold with spray cleaner? I have heard of something called Seafoam, that you let the intake suck in thru PCV or other fitting, but have never used it. If you have high HC, it is too rich. Either misfire, or extra fuel.
tom
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From: Anaheim USA
Thanks Ken00 and TomW for your input,
Yes, This truck is in California. I agree about the H2O, but as alot of white billowing toxic smoke was coming out of the air vents,I was not thinking rational,and there was not a fire extinguisher around. Sad to say that I am not a mechanic, and that itself, sucks.
Misfire? I changed my spark plugs right before the Smog test, and noticed on the # 1 cylynder that had some oil on the tip. valve guide on piston maybe shot. Don't know if/how/when/afford to should spend the money to fix. Just want the smog to pass.
In the Chiltons repair for Broncos and Rangers 1983-88, page 268,under "HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING" #2 ON CALIFORNIA VEHICLES,REMOVE THE EMISSIONS MODULE FORWARD OF THE BLOWER MOTOR".
I guess what I was talking about was the Heater/AC big Black box (HEATER-BLOWER ASSEMBLY)where the AC tube goes from the AC Compressor to that Box,and on the left side,down, there is a wiring harness,that plugs into a plug. That area was on fire inside the box. When I pulled that melted plug out,it was connected to some little coils (heating elements?) But no, I did not have to go inside my truck for the heater Core at all,if that's where that is.
The Blower fan does work. I just have a hole where that wiring harness was attached to the side of the box,below the two heater hoses going into the heater core tubes.
Just wanted to know if besides a cat converter,if I would need to replace any of this mess in the AC/heater Box in my engine compartment,or I should just have the state give me $1,000.00 to take it off my hands. I can't afford another truck,and theres not much one can do with $1,000 these days,so I will hope for the best. Thanks.If I could send a picture of the burn hole I would.
Yes, This truck is in California. I agree about the H2O, but as alot of white billowing toxic smoke was coming out of the air vents,I was not thinking rational,and there was not a fire extinguisher around. Sad to say that I am not a mechanic, and that itself, sucks.
Misfire? I changed my spark plugs right before the Smog test, and noticed on the # 1 cylynder that had some oil on the tip. valve guide on piston maybe shot. Don't know if/how/when/afford to should spend the money to fix. Just want the smog to pass.
In the Chiltons repair for Broncos and Rangers 1983-88, page 268,under "HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING" #2 ON CALIFORNIA VEHICLES,REMOVE THE EMISSIONS MODULE FORWARD OF THE BLOWER MOTOR".
I guess what I was talking about was the Heater/AC big Black box (HEATER-BLOWER ASSEMBLY)where the AC tube goes from the AC Compressor to that Box,and on the left side,down, there is a wiring harness,that plugs into a plug. That area was on fire inside the box. When I pulled that melted plug out,it was connected to some little coils (heating elements?) But no, I did not have to go inside my truck for the heater Core at all,if that's where that is.
The Blower fan does work. I just have a hole where that wiring harness was attached to the side of the box,below the two heater hoses going into the heater core tubes.
Just wanted to know if besides a cat converter,if I would need to replace any of this mess in the AC/heater Box in my engine compartment,or I should just have the state give me $1,000.00 to take it off my hands. I can't afford another truck,and theres not much one can do with $1,000 these days,so I will hope for the best. Thanks.If I could send a picture of the burn hole I would.
Last edited by bozo4ford; Mar 24, 2006 at 10:55 AM. Reason: spellin'
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: suburban atlanta
I don't know that a new cat will fix your problem. DId you go to the Colorado web site and read about how you can figure out if your cat works, using chemistry? So much air & fuel in + combustion == so much stuff out the pipe. You should be able to figure out if you really need a new cat using your latest readings.
The little coils are nichrome wire resistors. in series or parallel connection, they provide more or less juice to the blower motor.
Again, did you slosh out the intake manifold? If you take the throttle plate assembly off and look inside, you'll see why you failed HC portion. Loads of junk to absorb fuel and then release it while you are being tested...
tom
The little coils are nichrome wire resistors. in series or parallel connection, they provide more or less juice to the blower motor.
Again, did you slosh out the intake manifold? If you take the throttle plate assembly off and look inside, you'll see why you failed HC portion. Loads of junk to absorb fuel and then release it while you are being tested...
tom
