Hi guys. I'm new to this forum, and curently looking for som advise.
I have a 91 F-250. Had it for a few years. In temperatures around 0(C) it has been difficult to start for a couple of years. The WTS seems to work as it should, but I hear no clicking from the relay. The car shows no sign of firing. After cycling the ignition a few times, the the desired "clicking" appears, and my truck starts.
Yesterday, after many, many cycles of the ignition key, the clicking is still absent, and the engine will not start.
Anyone experienced the same?

 

So where in Europe are you........

How long does the Wait to Start (WTS) light stay on........

When was last time you tested the glow plugs (GP) for condition......

Here is some info re the GP operations........

If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.

Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
By........DieselDon

Beru ZD9 glow plugs only for our 7.3 engines.....

 

Thanks for the reply.
WTS light stays on for 7 sec.
Just checked plugs with test lt. One found to be faulty. Connectors seem to need replacement. Cracking up badly.
Going to test with ohm meter tomorrow. Gotta go to work now (taking wife's BMW).
Again, thanks for the reply.
By the way, I live in Norway. It's cold and windy outside. Truck does not fit in garage. Working on it it a cold pleasure.

 

...Welcome Guffen to Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords.

Enjoy FTE....and
JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.

 

Most of the connectors I've seen on the older trucks are deteriated like yours, many just have the spade showing All rubber insulator rotted away. This does not affect them it just causes them to rust at the terminal. I clean all the tops of the GP with sand paper put a little grease to stop the rust and they work fine.

 

I am very happy that I have found this site again...

I lost the link a long time ago and forgot about it. I have since been trying to figure out everything on my own...

I have a 1990 F-350 that is also hard starting, blows out white smoke when I try to start it. I know its a controller/plug problem, but my WTS light just flashes for a millisecond(just enough to know that it tried to work). I think thats pointing to a controller problem, but I don't know.

I wanted some input before I start replacing things.

Thanks

 

hEY i AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM...! Actually!.. During some major electrical troubleshooting I discovered 3 friedn glow plus and a bad controller.... Go figure... does anyone know a good place to get these parts?? I have a 91 F-350 with the 7.3 diesel..
Thanks

 

Autozone has the glow plugs, Motorcraft/Beru ZD 9 for 9.99.
Toasted glow plugs will make the 87 and later controller appear to be bad, replace the glow plugs first.

 

hhhmmm, will do... today!!!
Thanks!

 

If the connectors are bad, you can use electrical crimp connectors. If just the insulation is bad use a double layer of heat shrink. Motorcraft/beru only on the gps.

 

this is true. i just did mine on Saturday, and used .173 female crimp connectors to replace all 8 bad connectors on my 88. they fit perfect.

 

Hi guys!
It's me who started this thread, seeking some advise again.
I removed and tested all the plugs. Still only one showed to be faulty. Since they're all old, I replaced them all (Which are 30 USD a piece over here).
All connectors are cleaned and greased.
My problem is still the same. WTS ligth stays on for 8secs. The relay does not cycle. Engine shows no sign of firing. After turning the ignition off and on 8-10 times, I got the much desired clicking from the relay, and the engine fired nicely.
Anyone able to tell what my problem could be?

 

Guffen, this is your controller and relay.
The ignition switch powers the ignition terminal when the key is turned to ON.
The battery terminal should have power at all times.
The white terminal goes to ground when the controller is supposed to heat the glow plugs.

Check all the above listed terminals and see that they are indeed getting the proper voltages.

Also on the passenger side of the engine near the oil dip stick is a white looking electrical connector that has about 10 wires going through it. The large yellow wires (2 of them) are the battery voltage to the battery terminal on the glow plug relay.
This connector has been known to either get hot and deform or melt bad enough that the yellow wires are not making good contact anymore. Check that connector for signs of overheating or corrosion and repair as required.

If this does not get you going any better, post back and we will try to do more tests.

 

Thank you very much!
Not sure where the controller and relay is located, but will take a look this evening if the temperature outside goes up a little (10c below freezing and strong wind).

 

lOCATED MID ENGINE AFT JUST FORWARD OF WHERE THE ENGINE MEETS THE TRANNY...
cHEERS,
jEFF