Cam position sensor adjustment
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Cam position sensor adjustment
Hello, I am a new member to the site, & it looks like a great one!
I have a question. I just rebuilt the 4.2 in my 2000 E250 Van, & I am not certain how to set the cam position sensor. Currently, I have the crank at TDC for #1 Cylinder. There is a half circle shaft that rotates within with the cam position sensor.
Any idea how set this shaft? set this, or at least get it close? Its the last thing I need to do before I reinstall the engine.
BTW, the engine had 108K on it, when a intake valve spring broke, & it dropped a valve.
It was amazingly clean inside & hardly shown any wear. I think it would have gone another 100K easy. O-well.
Thanks in advance, Carl
I have a question. I just rebuilt the 4.2 in my 2000 E250 Van, & I am not certain how to set the cam position sensor. Currently, I have the crank at TDC for #1 Cylinder. There is a half circle shaft that rotates within with the cam position sensor.
Any idea how set this shaft? set this, or at least get it close? Its the last thing I need to do before I reinstall the engine.
BTW, the engine had 108K on it, when a intake valve spring broke, & it dropped a valve.
It was amazingly clean inside & hardly shown any wear. I think it would have gone another 100K easy. O-well.Thanks in advance, Carl
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Trussville, Alabama
Carl,
Welcome to FTE!
Looks like bokker has come to your rescue. He's a good chap!
I do have some info in my Haynes manual at home, but I'm at work and will be leaving town for a few days.
So, maybe bokker's info will get you buy.
Again, welcome to FTE and the 4.2 forum!
Glad to have you here.
Welcome to FTE!
Looks like bokker has come to your rescue. He's a good chap!
I do have some info in my Haynes manual at home, but I'm at work and will be leaving town for a few days.
So, maybe bokker's info will get you buy.
Again, welcome to FTE and the 4.2 forum!
Glad to have you here.
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Thanks for the help! the post was more directed to using the special alignment tool. I do not have one, & was hoping I could get it close without using one, then drive it somewhere to have it set correctly. Looks like I might have to spend some $$ on a tool I might only use once?
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well, I located a diagram of the instalation, but it does show a tool being used to hold the shaft in a locked position. If there was just a way to know what that position is, I think I could get it pretty close until I could bring the vehicle in, to get it exact?
here is a scan I made of the diagram & alignment tool. Too bad they don't just show where the tool is setting the shaft? I scribbled a picture on the lower right of what the top of the shaft looks like.
http://automationsystems.ws/cars/sync.pdf
thanks again, Carl
here is a scan I made of the diagram & alignment tool. Too bad they don't just show where the tool is setting the shaft? I scribbled a picture on the lower right of what the top of the shaft looks like.
http://automationsystems.ws/cars/sync.pdf
thanks again, Carl
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: uk
hi 68ragtop, with all your timing dots aligned you may be able to line up the sensor by an educated guess. the clamping screw has disc and this in turn clamps the sensor, if you look closely you may be able to see its original position 'footprint' from the disc clamp.
on assembly the sensor shaft spirals down into position and if it doesn't look correct, lift it up and rotate until it lines up with the next tooth and try again.
let us know how you get on. bokker.
on assembly the sensor shaft spirals down into position and if it doesn't look correct, lift it up and rotate until it lines up with the next tooth and try again.
let us know how you get on. bokker.
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Originally Posted by bokker
hi 68ragtop, with all your timing dots aligned you may be able to line up the sensor by an educated guess. the clamping screw has disc and this in turn clamps the sensor, if you look closely you may be able to see its original position 'footprint' from the disc clamp.
on assembly the sensor shaft spirals down into position and if it doesn't look correct, lift it up and rotate until it lines up with the next tooth and try again.
let us know how you get on. bokker.
on assembly the sensor shaft spirals down into position and if it doesn't look correct, lift it up and rotate until it lines up with the next tooth and try again.
let us know how you get on. bokker.
I guess if I can figure out what you mean by timing dots, I might be on the right path with your help.
BTW, any idea what hash mark on the damper is "0" it doesn't appear to have a marking. Just want to check its reference to TDC as well. The crank should be in the same position as it was when the timing gears were installed.
Thanks again for your help!
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From: uk
sorry it s very dificult to explain, the dot marks are to be found on the gear wheels in the timing chest and all align vertically. this may not help as it would mean a strip-down. i will try to send a photo of the cam tool.
your photo shows a large gap at the front, it is this gap that is used to locate the tool. the inner half circle, when in the correct position it covers two thirds of the gap leaving a empty space to the left hand side of the gap.
please do not hold your breath for a photo as i am not much use with computors. bokker. ps. the instruction leaflet states, set no1 cylinder on top dead centre on the compression stroke. so you are right, ignore the detail about dot marks etc.
your photo shows a large gap at the front, it is this gap that is used to locate the tool. the inner half circle, when in the correct position it covers two thirds of the gap leaving a empty space to the left hand side of the gap.
please do not hold your breath for a photo as i am not much use with computors. bokker. ps. the instruction leaflet states, set no1 cylinder on top dead centre on the compression stroke. so you are right, ignore the detail about dot marks etc.
Last edited by bokker; Feb 15, 2006 at 02:52 PM.
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Thanks! I have the engine installed in the van. I have almost everything else done. Basically just need to get the sensor in close, so I can install the rest of the coolant lines, & other things that would prevent me from pulling it up & rotating it to the correct position.
If you can email me a picture, that would be great! At least from seeing the tool upside down, I could at least be sure I have the correct tooth alignment.
My email adress is carl@automationsystems.ws
Thanks again, you have been a huge help!
If you can email me a picture, that would be great! At least from seeing the tool upside down, I could at least be sure I have the correct tooth alignment.
My email adress is carl@automationsystems.ws
Thanks again, you have been a huge help!
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Can you tell me if my picture looks correct? I am at TDC for #1 and the hall effect is in the position shown. I would guess it would be just entering, or exiting the hall? I realize I am not going to get exact without the tool, But I would really like to finish installing the engine tonight. Once I finish installing the
coolant lines & brackets, I won't be able to pull the shaft back out to change the gear position. So, I am hoping to get it close & then have it adjusted once I can bring the car into someone that has the tool.
Thanks again for your efforts, Carl
coolant lines & brackets, I won't be able to pull the shaft back out to change the gear position. So, I am hoping to get it close & then have it adjusted once I can bring the car into someone that has the tool.
Thanks again for your efforts, Carl
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Good news! I found a picture of one on ebay. Am I correct in guessing that the half circle in the tool, completes the half circle in the syncronizer?
If that is the case, I have mine approx 180 degrees out of rotation in the picture from the first page?
Now, I am going to have to figure out what is the true TDC for #1 Now that the engine is back in, I had to rotate it to bolt up the transmission.
If that is the case, I have mine approx 180 degrees out of rotation in the picture from the first page?
Now, I am going to have to figure out what is the true TDC for #1 Now that the engine is back in, I had to rotate it to bolt up the transmission.