Potential Fuel Pump Problem?
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Senior User
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From: South Texas
Potential Fuel Pump Problem?
I finally got my old '87 Ranger with the 2.3 a new cylinder head and got the engine put back together. Everything went real smooth for about 10 miles of the first test drive, but then a problem occured. After driving for 10 miles the truck suddenly started to struggle to accelerate. I was going about 30 mph when it first occured. Pressing the gas pedal only made it chug, I couldn't accelerate. After letting off the gas for a few seconds and downshifting the truck snapped out of it and ran fine for a few miles. This problem occured three times in the course of the seven miles it took to get back home. No acceleration, coast for 5-10 seconds then everything is fine for a while.
Also I've noticed that the high pressure pump (the truck has two pumps) is really loud lately, like maybe it's straining. Fuel pressure is normal at idle. Fuel filter is new. Could the pump in the tank be dying?
Also I've noticed that the high pressure pump (the truck has two pumps) is really loud lately, like maybe it's straining. Fuel pressure is normal at idle. Fuel filter is new. Could the pump in the tank be dying?
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From: South Texas
I wish I could have a pressure gauge hooked up while driving, that'd make diagnosis alot easier. To check for that amount of flow you mentioned, can I just pull the line behind the high pressure pump and run it for a few seconds to check for flow? Or is there a better way?
Also, could someone tell me if anything else besides the fuel pumps run off the fuel pump relay? If this relay was down would anything else be dead besides the pumps? I ask because I found some wiring problems I'm trying to correct. On my truck the pumps are hot-wired to the EEC relay. This has worked fine in the past but I'm trying to correct it. When I took off the hotwire I no longer had power to the pumps. So I was wondering if it could just be the relay.
Also, could someone tell me if anything else besides the fuel pumps run off the fuel pump relay? If this relay was down would anything else be dead besides the pumps? I ask because I found some wiring problems I'm trying to correct. On my truck the pumps are hot-wired to the EEC relay. This has worked fine in the past but I'm trying to correct it. When I took off the hotwire I no longer had power to the pumps. So I was wondering if it could just be the relay.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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Irishguyincc,
The exact same thing is happening to me. I have a 1988 2.3L. I changed the O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, air filter, cleaned the EGR Valve, changed the PCV valve, changed the fuel filter and it does exactly the same thing as yours. It took me forever to go 15 miles. I had a 1/2 tank of gas and 15 miles later, by the time I got home it was on empty. I have dual fuel tanks, but when I switch the lever to change tanks it doesn't move so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Also, when it starts sometimes it blows a huge line of carbon out of the exhaust. If you find out anything please let me know. It's driving me crazy. Thanks.
Billy
The exact same thing is happening to me. I have a 1988 2.3L. I changed the O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, air filter, cleaned the EGR Valve, changed the PCV valve, changed the fuel filter and it does exactly the same thing as yours. It took me forever to go 15 miles. I had a 1/2 tank of gas and 15 miles later, by the time I got home it was on empty. I have dual fuel tanks, but when I switch the lever to change tanks it doesn't move so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Also, when it starts sometimes it blows a huge line of carbon out of the exhaust. If you find out anything please let me know. It's driving me crazy. Thanks.
Billy
Last edited by billynjuls; Feb 14, 2006 at 08:41 PM.
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From: South Texas
Billy,
When my truck was that bad (and it was) I had two major issues: bad ignition control module and a cracked head. I strongly recommend a compression check. You might also want to pull that module and have it tested at the parts store. I'm thinking at this point I personally have a bad fuel pump in the tank, but your problem sounds alot like what I was dealing with before.
When my truck was that bad (and it was) I had two major issues: bad ignition control module and a cracked head. I strongly recommend a compression check. You might also want to pull that module and have it tested at the parts store. I'm thinking at this point I personally have a bad fuel pump in the tank, but your problem sounds alot like what I was dealing with before.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
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From: Northern Maine
I ran an old Ford Tempo with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up. I left the hood open and ran the hoses out where I duct taped the gauge to the windshield. I closed the hood on a piece of styrofoam and duct taped it closed too. It worked quite well as I had to drive the car a few miles to warm the fuel pump up before it malfunctioned. The car had 42 PIS with a cold pump and it dropped to 12 when it acted up. Good luck.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2005
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If you think you're having a problem with the ignition control module, replace it with a new or "known good one". I had a bad module that tested good at a parts store even after they tested it many times to heat it up. Then I tested it with a voltmeter (according to factory manual) to double check, it tested good which led me on a wild goose chase. Just my bad experience. good luck.
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From: South Texas
I tried to restore the wiring from the fuel pump relay back to its original configuration (not bypassing the fuel relay) and I installed a new relay. Unfortunately there still isn't power to the pumps with this configuration. I don't think I'm getting power on the line from the relay. Any idea why this would happen, especially if the relay itself is good?
Cargo Master
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The relay should have power on one pin all the time and one pin with the ignition on this pin is the one that closes the relay and allows the pump(s) to run. it's ground is made by the ECU. it should get turned on for 2 sec's when the switch is truned on and then stay on while the engine is cranking or running. The ECU test connector has a fuel pump test port on it. If you ground this port with the ignition switch on the pump(s) should run. It is on the bottom row furthest to the right if you look at the plug facing it with the latch clip on top. My nephew has a Mustang of this era that the PCM will not turn on that circuit and we had to by pass it with a switch to ground using that test port. IT could be a bad relay. You can bypass the relay as a test the configuration of the relay is printed on it. There is also a fuse in that circuit so check it also. The only way I know to sort this out is with a test light and vom meter.