help, 390 falls on its face
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Dillon, Colorado
the carb is a motorcraft f-2 (silimar to a 2100) everyone has really googd advice and I thank you all, there is an impressive wealth of info on this site. I am picking up a rebuilt distributor and a new coil today, because it is pretty cheap. Hopefully this will take care of the problem. I don't think it is a accelerator pump problem because it happens when i'm just crusing down the highway with my foot steady on the gas. The only question now is should I get an electronic ignition convertion or just stick with the points set-up (Any advise on how to adj. points would be great). Thanks again for all the feedback, i'll let you know how it turns out.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Charlotte
After you fix the current problem, 
You can get a Duraspark setup from any junkyard truck 76 (?) and later. You need the ignition box, wiring harness and the distributor. Lots' cheaper than buying new. Or you can go pertronix upgrade for about $60 and keep the distributor you have. Crane makes an upgrade also.
You can get a Duraspark setup from any junkyard truck 76 (?) and later. You need the ignition box, wiring harness and the distributor. Lots' cheaper than buying new. Or you can go pertronix upgrade for about $60 and keep the distributor you have. Crane makes an upgrade also.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Dillon, Colorado
well, the new distributor and coil DID NOT fix it!! it got rid of the backfiring, but it still boggs after I push the throttle more than halfway ON THE HIGHWAY ONLY? it runs great around town. I guess i'll be looking for a new carb (didn't want to spend the money)
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: North US Border, Canada
I've seen gas tanks with a screen mesh in the gas tank where the gas flows out. It has happened to me that a build up of dirt in the mesh reduces fuel flow and making the engine bog at higher constant speeds. The cure to that was to drop the tank and flush/clean the whole tank and make sure that fuel exit was thoroughly clean.
I didn't have time to do it right away so until I could find the time to drop the tank I pulled the fuel line at the tank and shot compessed air into the tank. That actually solved the problem for almost a full year and then I got off my lazy a$$ and dropped the tank. Runs good now for quite a few years .
Madmike33
I didn't have time to do it right away so until I could find the time to drop the tank I pulled the fuel line at the tank and shot compessed air into the tank. That actually solved the problem for almost a full year and then I got off my lazy a$$ and dropped the tank. Runs good now for quite a few years .
Madmike33
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Sometimes previous owners will put an extra fuel filter under the truck. See if yours truck has one. The power valve on the carb will create a similar problem. Did you precheck the point gap on the new distributor (point gap at 0.021")? and what did you set the timing at? How about a set of new spark plugs (gap at 0.035). Pull out a couple off plugs and check the condition of plugs (maybe some carbon deposits). Verify the choke is fully open and holding steady when the engine is warmed up.
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Senior User
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From: Dillon, Colorado
Great Advice mad mike, and 75 ford. I have checked for other filters and found none. I will try the blowing air into the tank trick, that sound easy enough to try. The timing is set at 10 degrees and I did not check the pionts on the new distributor. I pulled three plugs and all of them looked suprisingly good. How would I check the power valve? I took it out and looked at the numbers on it but can't figure them out. There is a 5 on one side and a 7 on the other? I am really feeling it is a fuel (carburetor) issue. I am going to try the blowing out the gas tank trick and take it from there. Thanks everyone again.....
New User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: KCMO
A friend of mine had a similar situation. Vehicle ran fine till you stomped it. As a last resort he pulled the fuel line and cut it. Supposedly he found a maple leaf in it. If it really happened, somebody had a very sadistic enemy. Sounds like something an ex-wife would do.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by chump
Great Advice mad mike, and 75 ford. I have checked for other filters and found none. I will try the blowing air into the tank trick, that sound easy enough to try. The timing is set at 10 degrees and I did not check the pionts on the new distributor. I pulled three plugs and all of them looked suprisingly good. How would I check the power valve? I took it out and looked at the numbers on it but can't figure them out. There is a 5 on one side and a 7 on the other? I am really feeling it is a fuel (carburetor) issue. I am going to try the blowing out the gas tank trick and take it from there. Thanks everyone again.....
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Dillon, Colorado
the power valve is set 1 1/2 turns out excatly. It happens to run really good like this. I will just replace the power valve, but what number do I get. I'm still a little confused about the numbering on them.
One other thing, when I am crusing at part throttle I hear a whistle/sucking sound effected by the throttle. should I be concerned about this?
One other thing, when I am crusing at part throttle I hear a whistle/sucking sound effected by the throttle. should I be concerned about this?
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If your power valve has a 7 and a 5 on it . That would be a 7.5 power valve.
The sucking sound sounds like a lean condition, if your powervalve isnt opening you will run lean on load conditions and get that lean ventury sound.
Usally when a powervalve goes bad the carb runs rich at all speeds. if it's not opening something is odd elsewhere. if this is a 2100 in most kits are 2 round gaskets one is for the power valve the other ( which will fit) is for the filter. The previous owner of my truck had used the filter one on the power valbe and the little flange sticking toward the center ( there were 3 of them ) was blocking partially the outlet hole from the power valve. Did you boil out your carb when you rebuilt it ? often the passages will get pluged with old fuel resadue and just carb cleaner wont get it out.
The sucking sound sounds like a lean condition, if your powervalve isnt opening you will run lean on load conditions and get that lean ventury sound.
Usally when a powervalve goes bad the carb runs rich at all speeds. if it's not opening something is odd elsewhere. if this is a 2100 in most kits are 2 round gaskets one is for the power valve the other ( which will fit) is for the filter. The previous owner of my truck had used the filter one on the power valbe and the little flange sticking toward the center ( there were 3 of them ) was blocking partially the outlet hole from the power valve. Did you boil out your carb when you rebuilt it ? often the passages will get pluged with old fuel resadue and just carb cleaner wont get it out.
Last edited by jav409; Feb 18, 2006 at 08:22 AM.
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From: Dillon, Colorado
IT'S FIXED...IT'S FIXED......MAD MIKE 33 HIT RIGHT ON THE HEAD.....I BLEW COMPRESSED AIR BACK THRU THE FUEL LINE STARTING AT THE FUEL PUMP. IT MADE A BLAHHHH SOUND, AND THEN STARTED GURGGLING... THEN I TOOK IT OUT ON THE HIGHWAY, AND SHE RAN LIKE A CHAMP. NO BOG NO NOTHING. Now i can at least drive it untill i can pull the tank and clean it out. FINALLY A SOLUTION!!!!!!!! Thanks everyone for all your good advice, you guys rule!
