Help - head gasket leak
#1
Help - head gasket leak
After cleaning the block surface and mating surface of my NOS 8RT heads very carefully, I used Victor Reinz (Felpro) head gaskets and sprayed them liberally with Permatex copper spray head gasket, waited till they were tacky and installed the heads. Snugged down the heads in 3 stages in proper torquing order to 65 lbs.
Went to refill the radiator and have a coolant leak (without starting engine) out the rear of the left head through the gasket surface. Retorqued to 70 lbs. (got some movement) and didn't help any.
Reccommendations?
I did not check the block and heads for flatness before doing this as the heads were NOS and the block was in the truck and I didn't want to go looking for reasons to pull the engine.
Is there a thicker gasket that I can use here or a different procedure?
Suggestions?
-Scott
Went to refill the radiator and have a coolant leak (without starting engine) out the rear of the left head through the gasket surface. Retorqued to 70 lbs. (got some movement) and didn't help any.
Reccommendations?
I did not check the block and heads for flatness before doing this as the heads were NOS and the block was in the truck and I didn't want to go looking for reasons to pull the engine.
Is there a thicker gasket that I can use here or a different procedure?
Suggestions?
-Scott
#2
Not sure what happened here? I usually use a scouring pad and clean the head surface with that. Only thing I can think of is that the head may warped and need resurfacing. A head gasket won't help here. Or.... because the gasket leaks at the rear, maybe the gasket got pinched when putting the head on. I don't recall having water leak from the heads? Not the way you described. I'd check the back of the intake manifold gaskets. They are very notorious for leaking especially at the rear. I usually apply plenty of silicone around the water ports and corners of the gaskets. My guess is it could be leaking and trickling down? FelPro gaskets are the best IMO, and rarely leak, especially head gaskets. Good luck.
#3
No, it's coming out of the middle of the back of the head gasket interface, it's dry near the top of the head.
Do you use silicone sealant with the head gasket or just the copper spray paint?
Pull the head, check for flatness of head and block, buy new right head gasket, put it on again, very carefully?
-Scott
-Scott
Do you use silicone sealant with the head gasket or just the copper spray paint?
Pull the head, check for flatness of head and block, buy new right head gasket, put it on again, very carefully?
-Scott
-Scott
#4
Scott, if it's leaking from the head and gasket, you have no other option but to pull the head again. I personally don't use anything on the head gaskets and always use Felpro. Once you pull the head, you may be able to see whats going on. If not, I'd take the head in to a machine shop and have them resurface the head. The block should be OK? Make sure both surfaces are really clean. I don't use the copper head gaskets either. The blue material Fel Pro's are the best. As long as the head is seated correctly and your torque is correct. I start torquing the heads from the center working out in a crisscross pattern. I also go 40- 60 and 70 lbs. I know your frustrated, but these things happen. If your sure its the head leaking, pull the head and see whats going on.
#5
I hate to ask, but are you sure you used the right (correct) head gasket? The area you are describing is where you might expect an immediate leak if you used the wrong gasket (there are 2 or 3 water passages there)
When you say these are "NOS" heads, what exactly do you mean? Are they never used, original factory parts? or are they reconditioned?
Regardless, imlowr2's right, somethin' ain't right, you do need to pull the head. It could be worse, it could be an OHV or OHC engine!!
I also used the blue Victor Reinz/FelPro gaskets, I don't think you are supposed to use anything with them. I used them plain and have had no leaks at all. I did nothing special for prep except wire-brush all surfaces. The copper coat is mainly for the old solid copper or copper-faced style gaskets the pre-8BA/RT engines used. (I guess anyway, I've never owned anything but an 8BA)
If the engine is in the truck w/ fenders on, I bet your back feels good!
When you say these are "NOS" heads, what exactly do you mean? Are they never used, original factory parts? or are they reconditioned?
Regardless, imlowr2's right, somethin' ain't right, you do need to pull the head. It could be worse, it could be an OHV or OHC engine!!
I also used the blue Victor Reinz/FelPro gaskets, I don't think you are supposed to use anything with them. I used them plain and have had no leaks at all. I did nothing special for prep except wire-brush all surfaces. The copper coat is mainly for the old solid copper or copper-faced style gaskets the pre-8BA/RT engines used. (I guess anyway, I've never owned anything but an 8BA)
If the engine is in the truck w/ fenders on, I bet your back feels good!
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; 02-12-2006 at 05:03 PM.
#6
fwiw - I first time I installed the heads on my flathead - put the engine in the truck and had a similar water leak out the front driver's side. Pulled it apart and noticed the gasket had "FRONT" stamped into the one surface. I'd say Ross is on the right track. I had the right gasket, just flipped end for end.
I use the coppercoat or even aluminum spray paint on the felpro gaskets. Helps keep them from sticking to the block the next time I have to pull heads.
You can check your head for warpage with a carpenter's square and a feeler gauge.
I use the coppercoat or even aluminum spray paint on the felpro gaskets. Helps keep them from sticking to the block the next time I have to pull heads.
You can check your head for warpage with a carpenter's square and a feeler gauge.
#7
Is there a chance that you flipped the gasket upside down, or that you have the wrong gasket? did you check it before you started to put it together to be sure all the ports matched? Are you 100% positive you cleaned every last trace of old gasket off and without gouging the surface? You'd have to have a heck of a warp to have it run out without even starting the engine. A quick and dirty way to check for badly warped headis to clean the surface completely, I like to lay a large flat file down diagonally across the head and slide it from end to end, you'll know immediately if there is even a tiny amount of buildup on the surface. Turn the head upside down on your workbench and put a very very light coat of vasaline on all the surface. Gently lay a sheet of 1/4" plate glass big enough to cover the head over the head being careful to not slide it as you set it in place. The vasaline will transfer to the glass completely if the head is flat you'll be able to see the pattern quite clearly thru the glass. If there is anywhere that the glass did not make contact you have a warped head and should have it checked by a machine shop. The same process can be used to check the block.A piece of frosted glass works even better as it will go clear where it gets vasaline on it.
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I believe the 2 water passages along the rear of the block are shaped differently on the left and right banks. If you use the wrong gasket (driver's bank on passenger bank) the gasket is upside down but otherwise looks about right, unless you look close. My gaskets weren't stamped, so there was some head-scratching to make sure which was which.
NAPA should have the FelPro Blue sets, maybe as Victor Reinz parts. If not, I got mine off eBay, and Red's Headers also sells good ones. You might even check AutoZone or Checker, the blue are worth looking for IMHO and I seem to recall some bad remarks about NAPA's (may have been a different situation).
NAPA should have the FelPro Blue sets, maybe as Victor Reinz parts. If not, I got mine off eBay, and Red's Headers also sells good ones. You might even check AutoZone or Checker, the blue are worth looking for IMHO and I seem to recall some bad remarks about NAPA's (may have been a different situation).
#11
Turned out to be an operator error. Whatever "mechanic" installed the left head gasket put in on wrong - Front pointed to the back. When I - I mean he- was setting it up, I -he- carefully fit it up against the head and made sure all the holes matched up, then carried it over to the block and laid it over the dowel pins without confirming hole lineup. Sure enough, it was on wrong.
Replaced this morning, hope to have running tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
-Scott
Replaced this morning, hope to have running tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
-Scott
#12
Originally Posted by Narwhal
Turned out to be an operator error. Whatever "mechanic" installed the left head gasket put in on wrong - Front pointed to the back. When I - I mean he- was setting it up, I -he- carefully fit it up against the head and made sure all the holes matched up, then carried it over to the block and laid it over the dowel pins without confirming hole lineup. Sure enough, it was on wrong.
Replaced this morning, hope to have running tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
-Scott
Replaced this morning, hope to have running tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.
-Scott
#15