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Please enlighten me on the wicked wheel:
What does it do exactly?
Where does it go?
Where do I get one?
How much does it cost?
Install level of difficulty?
Thanks, and please pardon my ignorance
Please enlighten me on the wicked wheel:
What does it do exactly?
Where does it go?
Where do I get one?
How much does it cost?
Install level of difficulty?
Thanks, and please pardon my ignorance
It's the compressor wheel out of a 94.5 to early 99 PSD. It wasn't as efficient and louder than the later style wheel.
Problem with the later style wheel is it would stall under heavy load and make this "towel flapping in a hurricane" type noise.
Refitting a WW inside the later style turbo housing would get rid of the stall as long as you weren't using a high power chip.
It's the compressor wheel out of a 94.5 to early 99 PSD. It wasn't as efficient and louder than the later style wheel.
Problem with the later style wheel is it would stall under heavy load and make this "towel flapping in a hurricane" type noise.
Refitting a WW inside the later style turbo housing would get rid of the stall as long as you weren't using a high power chip.
How high of hp chip can be used with just a WW along with exhaust and a 6637? thanks
How high of hp chip can be used with just a WW along with exhaust and a 6637? thanks
High as you want I guess. You'll end up with too high of EGT in a hurry with the stock sized exhuast housing. If you want safe big power you have to get a bigger turbo.
I agree with you there Kwik, I don't think there's really a HP chip limit. I'd say that once you've reached the point that that wheel can no longer keep up with the power you're trying to make, the stock turbo is due for an upgrade anyhow.
Well, It finally happened to me this weekend. Pulling 5ver and had serious flutter. This is the first time pulling since putting the Kwik filter on and until I can get a WW and new housing, the stock air box will be going back on. Not only can I not use the power available but I can hear and see the flutter. Happens any time there is a slight hill and the motor has to work a little harder.
It's the compressor wheel out of a 94.5 to early 99 PSD. It wasn't as efficient and louder than the later style wheel.
Problem with the later style wheel is it would stall under heavy load and make this "towel flapping in a hurricane" type noise.
Refitting a WW inside the later style turbo housing would get rid of the stall as long as you weren't using a high power chip.
Thanks for that Kwik. The highest power chip I intend to use is the 120hp Tipton chip with Kwik intake and 4" Turbo back exhaust. Do you think it would help that scenario at all? I tow nothing and most of the time just stick to the 80hp setting.
I've got an early '99 with a stock "wicked wheel" and with my chip on 110hp I can get it to flutter, both when I'm empty and just running it really hard but also hitting a hill with the 30' flatbed when it's set on 75hp.
Just go all out and get a BB turbo, that'll solve all your problems.
Well, It finally happened to me this weekend. Pulling 5ver and had serious flutter. This is the first time pulling since putting the Kwik filter on and until I can get a WW and new housing, the stock air box will be going back on. Not only can I not use the power available but I can hear and see the flutter. Happens any time there is a slight hill and the motor has to work a little harder.
I've thought about upgrading the turbo....later on down the road. What does everyone recommend? I've seen a ball bearing greddy turbo online but it looks awefully similar to the stock turbo and it lists around $1,500.
High as you want I guess. You'll end up with too high of EGT in a hurry with the stock sized exhuast housing. If you want safe big power you have to get a bigger turbo.
I plan on running a D-P 4 pos chip with 80 hp being the highest setting. I have been doing a lot of reading on the forums and planning my mods. It is a daily driver that I use to tow 4-6k about once a month. I don't have a lot of extra cash for mods so I want the most bang for my buck and don't want to upgrade too much that I have to start spending a lot on high dollar after market parts. Thanks for all the good info and the time you guys spend to answer our questions.
I guess you can get to much air. BTW, where can I get the best price on ATS or comparable housing? from what I here this is the only sure cure for the flutter.
Well, It finally happened to me this weekend. Pulling 5ver and had serious flutter. This is the first time pulling since putting the Kwik filter on and until I can get a WW and new housing, the stock air box will be going back on. Not only can I not use the power available but I can hear and see the flutter. Happens any time there is a slight hill and the motor has to work a little harder.
If you get just the WW you can tow without any flutter at all. Just stick to the stock tune or a Tow/Haul tune. Any higher and the WW will start to stall.
When you say stay with a tow tune and the ww wont stall or flutter, your talking like a 20 or 40hp tune for trailer pulling? I experienced the flutter pulling my trailer this past weekend, wow you can really hear that through the intake now. Was very loud, and very obvious that something was wrong.
Just a word of caution (I think), but if you start to chirp or flutter your turbo, I'd reccommend letting off so it doesn't do it. If you get to thinking about it, there is a buildup of pressure in the intake side and back feeding thru the turbo, hence your flutter; and I guess I think of it as the turbo impellor bouncing around in the housing, stop - go - stop - go... and it can't be all too easy on it. I'm sure a little bit won't hurt at all, but if you hold pedal to the floor and pulling hills with it chirpping the whole way, I would tend to think some damage could occur.
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