Electrical Problem
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Joined: Feb 2006
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Electrical Problem
I am trying to fix a 1987 F150 that had an alternator die. When it was jumped the cables were put on reverse polarity and the ECM got fried. I picked up another ECM and put it in the truck but it still wont start. What I am trying to find out is, will the ECM that I picked up work for this truck or will I have to find a different one? If so what numbers will work with my truck? Or what else could be the problem. It is not getting fire when it cranks.
the old ECM number is E7TF-12A650-L2C
the new ECM number is E9TF-12A650-DA
the old ECM number is E7TF-12A650-L2C
the new ECM number is E9TF-12A650-DA
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
The regulator in the alternator might have been fried.
The TFI module on the distributor (or driverside fender if remote) might have been fried.
The EEC, while not the correct one, is "close enough" it should at least start. Check the fuses too.
The TFI module on the distributor (or driverside fender if remote) might have been fried.
The EEC, while not the correct one, is "close enough" it should at least start. Check the fuses too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
Okay, then it's not the TFI module.
The regulator could have been blown "open" meaning it doesn't allow power from the alternator windings to the rest of the truck.
It's also possible, thinking about it, that a fusable link is blown near the alternator.
The regulator could have been blown "open" meaning it doesn't allow power from the alternator windings to the rest of the truck.
It's also possible, thinking about it, that a fusable link is blown near the alternator.
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I can probably have the alternator tested at autozone. The fusible links in the truck however I don't see a way to open and test them some of them are just a rubber block that cant come apart how do I check and see if that link is working or blown?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Langhorne, PA
I'm not sure but there may be a large gauge yellow wire coming off your starter relay, it has a fusible link just about 6 or 7 inches down the line, it may drop down behind or under the battery. I have read about a few folks that popped that link, after a cross wire or reverse pol shot.
BTW, the wire is well-hidden and covered with tape and plastic shield, and after a few years the wire doesn't look quite yellow, anything close to yellow might be the right one, i.e.orangey, etc.
EDIT Nevermind, I just re-read, you said the starter cranked, sorry.
BTW, the wire is well-hidden and covered with tape and plastic shield, and after a few years the wire doesn't look quite yellow, anything close to yellow might be the right one, i.e.orangey, etc.
EDIT Nevermind, I just re-read, you said the starter cranked, sorry.
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No Problem 924, Most of the time when you get a reverse pol shot it won't crank. I am going to check out the fusible link and regulator hopefully tonight and maybe that will be the problem.
BTW I had the original TFI module tested and it is still good so it didn't get fried.
BTW I had the original TFI module tested and it is still good so it didn't get fried.
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Still dead
I have checked all of the fusible links that I can find in the truck and they are all working. I used to have a problem with the IACV where if I didn't tap on it when I was trying to crank the truck it wouldn't start. I changed the IACV with another that I know is working and that didn't help. I am getting no spark from the Coil even though I have power coming in to the coil. I am looking for a distributor now. Thinking that somehow the distributor got shot.
Any other suggestions?
Any other suggestions?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Central NY
I don't think theres anything in the distributor that would fry. Hows the coil itself?
If you've got 12v on one side then all you need is the ground pulse from the eec. You can check that with a testlight. I think it comes from pin 16 on the eec to the TFI, then out to the coil neg side.
Have you checked the relays? (eec, ign, fp)
If you've got 12v on one side then all you need is the ground pulse from the eec. You can check that with a testlight. I think it comes from pin 16 on the eec to the TFI, then out to the coil neg side.
Have you checked the relays? (eec, ign, fp)
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I haven't checked the relays but I tried a new coil and that didn't help. Talking to some guys around here they think that the pickup on the distributor may be bad.
The fuel pumps are working fine it is definitely getting fuel. It is not getting any spark. I currently have a computer out of another truck that was running in the truck (I think that it came out of an 89 or 90). I am wondering what the ohm reading on the distributor pickup would be in order to test it.
What relay controls the ignition?
The fuel pumps are working fine it is definitely getting fuel. It is not getting any spark. I currently have a computer out of another truck that was running in the truck (I think that it came out of an 89 or 90). I am wondering what the ohm reading on the distributor pickup would be in order to test it.
What relay controls the ignition?
