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(Long post sorry)
Well to start I have an 01 with four wheel disc brakes there are 93000 miles on the truck and I have had it since 67000. This was my first time doing anthing with the brakes.
I had a spongy brake pedal so I decided I would replace the brakes with my brother in law. We did the rears first. Had the rotors turned and installed new pads. When we took apart the front there was still a lot of brake pad left so we decided to leave them as is.
We bled the brakes and from the drivers side rear brake my brother said there was a lot of bubbles coming out. (I was the one pumping so I didn't see them)
We put everything back together after bleeding and the braking seemed to be stiffer/firmer than what it was.
That was last Sunday, and today while driving I noticed that they seem to be a bit spongy again.
Make sure the front wheel bearings are adjusted properly too. If they are loose it will push the pads back further into the caliper and the pedal will be low.
Are the caliper slides free? If they seize up you can get a low or soft pedal too.
My vote goes to the master cylinder. If air was weeping in he would have no brakes. I would also bleed all four corners again especially if the fronts were not bled when the rears were done. As a side note, you always want to bleed all four lines togather. Check the front pads again, they may need to be replaced depending on how long ago they were checked. If all that checks out and you continue to get a spongy pedal after a while I would replace the master cylinder.
Are your bleeders sealing properly, I had that on an 94 grand prix, Air would slowly get in but fluid wouldn't come out noticably. Also if the brakes weren't bled good enouph there could still have been air hidding somewere, usualy when the master cylinder goes you can put pressure on the brakes and the pedal will slowly go down
How did you compress the rear calipers? You did say 4 wheel disc right...and if you only bled one caliper there still may be air in the system. When you pump up the brake pedal does it stay firm or does is slowly go to the floor?
Dealers can be costly when it comes to brakes...I was quoted something like $300 to change brake pads on one axle included turning the rotors. And that is if nothing else is wrong.
It is 4 wheel disc. We did bleed all four lines and we replaced the bleeder screws too.
I have pumped up the pedal and left it there for an hour or so and it does stay firm. But if I pump it up and put a little pressure it still goes down a little ways.
As far as the calipers I think we were just able to slide them back on. On one we used clamps to push them back in, but it seemed as if it was already in as far as it would go.
I have had this problem on a few cars. Sometimes the brake fluid is visible and sometimes it is leaking into the vacuum assist reservoir....sometimes you can remove the big vacuum line going into the vacuum reservoir and see the brake fluid inside that tube.
If you will flush your brake fluid annually you will not have any hydraulic problems with your brakes. It takes a quart of brake fluid and about 20 minutes of your time. A quart can be had for about $4. Pretty cheap insurance.
If you will flush your brake fluid annually you will not have any hydraulic problems with your brakes. It takes a quart of brake fluid and about 20 minutes of your time. A quart can be had for about $4. Pretty cheap insurance.
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