surging then stalling
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surging then stalling
Anyone know what would cause an 87 6.9l to give a short surge of fuel then stall, itll start again with a lot of cranking then stall even if at 50mph? any help is greatly appreciated.
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thanks for the help, I only use the front tank now, the back one is leaking, so its interesting that u might think its the stand pipe in the fuel tank? any way for me to eleiminate this possibility? I want to rebuild the whole truck, Id sure appreciate the advice.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The pick up tubes in the tank are known to crack or break off.
This is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 tank of fuel level.
Air in the fuel system causes the surge and then stop.
The only fix is to drop the tank and change or repair the tube.
This is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 tank of fuel level.
Air in the fuel system causes the surge and then stop.
The only fix is to drop the tank and change or repair the tube.
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Thanks Dave & PLC7.3, any chance the air is in a fuel line? it never wants to start when the nose is up hill and ive heard thats air in the fuel line. Anyways whats involved with dropping a fuel tank, it looks like ill need to do both, im thinking of taking the box off, I want to put a flat deck on anyway, will this make the job easier? any suggestions on where to buy and what to pay for a tank would be great.
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Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I found the best deal at a local radiator shop for my tanks.
Although it has been several years ago I paid in the 250 range for my tanks, the rear one is a 44 gallon tank and the front one is 22 gallons.
Not to much fun at the fuel station when it is empty (175 dollars to fill up), but I don't have to go there often.
The nose down hill not wanting to start deal is probably the check valve in the fuel filter to injector return line.
The fuel line that goes from the number 1 injector return cap to the top of the fuel filter is the culprit, it allows the fuel in the filter to drain back to the tank.
If you are removing the box the fuel tank sending units will be right on top and easy to access.
One of the many nice things about my dump bed, I can get to everything easily.
Cut the hose and block it off method of repair has been used by many here.
Although it has been several years ago I paid in the 250 range for my tanks, the rear one is a 44 gallon tank and the front one is 22 gallons.
Not to much fun at the fuel station when it is empty (175 dollars to fill up), but I don't have to go there often.
The nose down hill not wanting to start deal is probably the check valve in the fuel filter to injector return line.
The fuel line that goes from the number 1 injector return cap to the top of the fuel filter is the culprit, it allows the fuel in the filter to drain back to the tank.
If you are removing the box the fuel tank sending units will be right on top and easy to access.
One of the many nice things about my dump bed, I can get to everything easily.
Cut the hose and block it off method of repair has been used by many here.
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Not the pick up tube, sending unit looks good, now what?
Well I took the box off, removed the sending unit and it looks good, the tank was actually over 3/4 full, the gauge was always stuck at way over full so I wasnt sure. So this rules out the pick up tube, wasnt a waste though I had to remove the rear tank anyway it was leaking. Now Im back to square one, surging and stalling, So air in the fuel somewhere or lift pump? Whats strange is I could see a air bubble in the blue fuel line coming from the tank. I couldnt have come this far without all the great help, thanks!! If I had a spare vehicle Id be havin fun.
Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Check the pickup tube very carefully for cracks.
Also the O ring in the connector for the fuel line.
It does not take much of a crack for air to get in.
If you can put a couple of pounds of air pressure into the line and hold it in a pan of fuel the bubbles will give away any cracks that might not be easy to see.
When the sending unit dies, the tube cracking has usually either already happened or is about to happen.
I have been through several sending units over the last 300 thousand miles.
Also the O ring in the connector for the fuel line.
It does not take much of a crack for air to get in.
If you can put a couple of pounds of air pressure into the line and hold it in a pan of fuel the bubbles will give away any cracks that might not be easy to see.
When the sending unit dies, the tube cracking has usually either already happened or is about to happen.
I have been through several sending units over the last 300 thousand miles.
