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I installed an 8 circuit fuse block on the right inner fender near the voltage regulator.Then I installed a separate circuit with relay for each of the high and low beams,and upgraded wiring to number 12 guage. The original headlight wiring simply turns on or off the relays.Of all my vehicles,the '59 has the best lighting,except for the auxilliary Piaa's on the wife's Volvo.If ,however, you're married to the totally stock thing,go ahead and suffer for your purity.Steve
make sure you have good grounds. a little bit of rust can make the lights seem dimmer. I bought new headlights at NAPA but they still were not right. SO I took them out got sand paper and cleaned up the contacts and It was a world of difference. Now I still can see my trucks shadow when one of those new foreign cars with the blue lights gets behind me, but my lights are good enough for the speed at which I go and the amount of time I drive at night!
I installed an 8 circuit fuse block on the right inner fender near the voltage regulator......Steve
Steve: Any particular type of panel (weatherproof or anything)? I do not have the halogen sealed beams yet, but will try to get some in the next week or so.
My thinking was a small fuse panel, since I need two relays for the headlights and another one for a horn I intend to install. I am hoping the little radio shack in town might have them by now.
The 8 circuit one I had on my old ranger had to be special ordered and cost $$$$$$ to get in here.
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Hey guys, I put a set of these glass housings and H4 bulbs in my '53. The bulbs are 55/60 watt and the headlight switch is rated at 15 amps. I was told this would work without a relay, is that right? Does anybody know how to figure this watts/amps thing? I don't want to put in a relay if I don't need it..... P.S. the lights look super bright in the day time, haven't used them at night yet.
Two 60 watt headlights on hi beam should be ~8.6 - 10.0 amps, depends on how the lights are rated. 60 watts @what voltage? plus whatever else is hooked to the switch, tailights etc.
Originally Posted by xfordman
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Hey guys, I put a set of these glass housings and H4 bulbs in my '53. The bulbs are 55/60 watt and the headlight switch is rated at 15 amps. I was told this would work without a relay, is that right? Does anybody know how to figure this watts/amps thing? I don't want to put in a relay if I don't need it..... P.S. the lights look super bright in the day time, haven't used them at night yet.
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Hey guys, I put a set of these glass housings and H4 bulbs in my '53. The bulbs are 55/60 watt and the headlight switch is rated at 15 amps. I was told this would work without a relay, is that right? Does anybody know how to figure this watts/amps thing? I don't want to put in a relay if I don't need it..... P.S. the lights look super bright in the day time, haven't used them at night yet.
Regardless of the headlight switch rating, if your wiring dates to '53, put in a relay.
Volts, times amps equals watts. Or watts divided by volts equals amps.
Try a local salvage yard, get one from under the hood of a car or truck it will be designed for the application you are using. The one from Radio Shack most likely is not deisgned for mounting outside without a water tight enclosure. Some even have a built in relay already and are designed for what you are using it for. My Jeep Wrangler has a fuse box under the hood and has relays built into it.
Originally Posted by Brian_B
Steve: Any particular type of panel (weatherproof or anything)? I do not have the halogen sealed beams yet, but will try to get some in the next week or so.
My thinking was a small fuse panel, since I need two relays for the headlights and another one for a horn I intend to install. I am hoping the little radio shack in town might have them by now.
The 8 circuit one I had on my old ranger had to be special ordered and cost $$$$$$ to get in here.
Brian-The fuse panel that I used is inexpensive,having come from my local Kragen's .Although not considered waterproof,it's location up high on the right inner fender has,thus far, kept it so.Biggest problem is not dropping a tool or part onto the terminal at the fuse block that connects with #8 guage wire to the output terminal on the regulator.A tasteful looking cover could be made for this.As I live in the redwoods of the Santa Cruz Mtns.,a temperate rain forest,moisture is always a problem.Be sure to use dielectric grease at all connection points.Steve
I have done the relay/wiring upgrade on 2 of my trucks. It was the best safety upgrade yet!
Do not install a fuse inline but use a circuit breaker instead. If you blow a fuse at 70mph, you are pretty much screwed. The circuit breaker will reset so you have lights.
Just going to the halogen sealed beams in my 50 made a world of difference. I'm not at all worried about running a higher wattage since the wiring harness is designed for 6V and I'm running 12V so the amperage is cut in half.
I like not being able to see at night, It keeps me on my toes when I got my truck it was wired a little wrong, you would turn on the turn signal and the head light would flash, Talk about a pain to fix.
The amperage is cut in half but you still have watts which is heat. The old 35 watt lights should have drawn ~5.14 amps each at 6.8 volts, 60 watt bulbs should draw about ~ 4.5 amps each at 13 volts. Then the tails lights and running lights are drawing more at 12 volts than the old lower wattage lamps.
Originally Posted by JDMick
Just going to the halogen sealed beams in my 50 made a world of difference. I'm not at all worried about running a higher wattage since the wiring harness is designed for 6V and I'm running 12V so the amperage is cut in half.
I installed halogen sealed beams in my truck with the stock wireing and switch and generator havent had any problems at all with it. They are plenty bright.