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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

that lovely no start condition

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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 07:03 AM
  #1  
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that lovely no start condition

I have that lovely no start condition with my ranger. I know that it is related to the small post on my starter. bad connection or ?? the truck already has the newer starter on it. the one without the little post and push on connector for the small wire. this one goes over the bolt with a connecter and then is nutted on. any way i loosened up the nut last night and moved the connector around to break some of the dirt and mud up that was on it and then retighten it up. while i was tighting the nut back up the whole cylindar that the terminals are connected to turned slightly. maybe a total of 1/4 to 1/2". it thought that was odd, but crawled back out from under the truck and try to start it. started fine. shut if back off and restarted it, done this several times. went out this morning and start it up drive to work and shut it off. tried to restart it and it wont start. My question is since the cylindar turned is it possible there is a bad connection inside the starter. or do you think it is the connection on the wire still?? Is there a way to fix it where i don't have to buy a new starter? i plan on trading the truck in, in about 2 months and really don't want to have to put any money into it.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:43 AM
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Just pull the starter off and change the Solenoid. I picked one up on Monday and it was only $19.00 CAD. 2 screws and it comes off. No more starter problems.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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this starter is probably no more then 1 1/2 years old. and the cheapest i can find the starter mounted soleniod is $42
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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I had a similar sounding problem that turned out to be the solenoids spade lugs clip on electrical connector.

It was a snap on, squeeze to release type, ("Amp" mfg) conector & it's inside phosphor bronze spring contact hardness temper, was the problem.

Seems it's hardness wasn't up to spec & was so soft, it would over time, deform & loosen it's grip on the solenoids spade lug after a while, such that a poor electrical connection would result in a "no start" condition.

I could smack the starter or solenoid with a broom handel & it would start right up & be ok for a day, a month, or maybe a year!!!!

After I stumbled on the problem one day, I removed the connector & using a small jewelers screwdriver, from the wire end of the conector, I resprung/reshaped the inside phosphor/bronze spring contact area, such that it grips the spade lug tighter.

Two year old problem finally solved!!!!

Don't know if this is your problem or not, but from your description, it sure sounds like the one I had & would probably be worth a look beore throwing solenoids at it like I did. LOL

If you can jiggle or wiggle the connector & have it begin to work, or if it seems loose on the spade connector, like mine was, suspect the connectors internal contacts are sprung & misshaped.

Let us know what you find.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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that was my problem the first time i had this problem i ended up replaced the starter after a while cause it went out, but i went through that same thing. the starter that i got to replace it came with a stud and a wire o ring connector that had to be spliced into the old wire. and then that was placed on with nut. it was supposed to cure this particular problem. however i am still haveing problems with it. i have gonna yank the starter tongiht and clean up the contact surface real good and clean the connectors on the wire as well.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 05:44 PM
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If your replacement connector was spliced in with a "crimp" connector, instead of a soldered connection, or a heat shrink solder type splice connector, then I'd take a careful look at the crimped splice.

I just don't have much long term confidence in them.

IMHO a soldered connection, overinsulated with heatshrink tubing is a better more reliable way to go.

I suppose you could have damaged the solenoids coil winding connection at the post that turned when you were tighteneng things up. Why not do a continuity test on it, while flexing it a little.
 
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