302 flywheel confusion
#46
351 Auto to 302 manual???
Hello TigerDan,
Brand new to the forum and have what is probably an easily answered question. I've got a cousin who has a 1972 Ford Ranger with 302 3Spd on the column. Long story short, it's gonna be better/easier to replace with a good used cheap motor vs a complete rebuild.
We've found a good running 351 Windsor engine that we are interested in. It's hooked to an auto tranny. Trying to figure out if it's compatible to swap out with a 302 manual truck???
Thanks for your consideration of this question and your reply.
Respectfully,
Bobby - MAJBB77
Brand new to the forum and have what is probably an easily answered question. I've got a cousin who has a 1972 Ford Ranger with 302 3Spd on the column. Long story short, it's gonna be better/easier to replace with a good used cheap motor vs a complete rebuild.
We've found a good running 351 Windsor engine that we are interested in. It's hooked to an auto tranny. Trying to figure out if it's compatible to swap out with a 302 manual truck???
Thanks for your consideration of this question and your reply.
Respectfully,
Bobby - MAJBB77
#47
Join Date: May 2004
Location: The hills of No. Calif.
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If the 302 is original to the truck, or at least a pre-1981 302 then it's a 28oz imbalance, same as the 351W so the 302 flywheel should bolt up in place of the auto trans flexplate. After that it should be pretty mush a straight bolt-in swap, with the possible exception of the exhaust. The 351W is wider than the 302 so the exhaust manifolds are further apart, depending on your exhaust configuration you might have to alter the exhaust to fit.
At least, that's all I can think of off the top of my head...
At least, that's all I can think of off the top of my head...
#48
If the 302 is original to the truck, or at least a pre-1981 302 then it's a 28oz imbalance, same as the 351W so the 302 flywheel should bolt up in place of the auto trans flexplate. After that it should be pretty mush a straight bolt-in swap, with the possible exception of the exhaust. The 351W is wider than the 302 so the exhaust manifolds are further apart, depending on your exhaust configuration you might have to alter the exhaust to fit.
At least, that's all I can think of off the top of my head...
At least, that's all I can think of off the top of my head...
B.B.
#49
Sure wish my old flywheel hadn't been discarded! My 1995 F150 5.0 was chattering after a new clutch kit and slave was installed, so I took it to a local mechanic who pulled the M5OD out and replaced the flywheel with a LUK..(no OEM available) Now the engine is running very rough...almost like a misfire, and gets worse as RPM is increased. I took it to a different shop, thinking that they screwed something up. The second shop pulled out the LUK & put in a Sachs flywheel and pressure plate. Still runs horribly. I saw the OEM flywheel before it was scraped & remembered that the weight bar that is moulded into the casting made up about 1/4 of of the surface area...and the Sachs NFW1128 was much less...perhaps a couple inches less. Can anyone shed some light on this?? HELP
#50
Sure wish my old flywheel hadn't been discarded! My 1995 F150 5.0 was chattering after a new clutch kit and slave was installed, so I took it to a local mechanic who pulled the M5OD out and replaced the flywheel with a LUK..(no OEM available) Now the engine is running very rough...almost like a misfire, and gets worse as RPM is increased. I took it to a different shop, thinking that they screwed something up. The second shop pulled out the LUK & put in a Sachs flywheel and pressure plate. Still runs horribly. I saw the OEM flywheel before it was scraped & remembered that the weight bar that is moulded into the casting made up about 1/4 of of the surface area...and the Sachs NFW1128 was much less...perhaps a couple inches less. Can anyone shed some light on this?? HELP
#52
#53
I went to rock auto too, shop somewhere else. They don't know **** from shinola either. Neither choice lists the imbalance for those flywheels, but the NFW like I said is a 28 oz/in unit. Your motor needs a 50 oz/in wheel. Go shop on Summit Racing's site you'll find what you're looking for there.
#55
Baddad457 Thanks much for your input. I see the one you mentioned plus a couple more of them now. Hope that solves the problem! I should have just had my OEM one resurfaced when I had the chance to. My mechanic (and yes I agree...should find a new one) told me the machine shops take their time getting products back to them and so the shops need to have their bays & lifts
in use for other customers, not tied up with the same vehicle for days.
in use for other customers, not tied up with the same vehicle for days.
#56
I hear you on the shop wanting to get it out faster, but they should be better aware of what parts they're buying. Just that part number you listed raised a red flag right off the bat and told me what your problem was. Rock Auto needs to get their **** together too. This is a classic example of why experience matters when someone hires people. Just because someone went to school doesn't mean they learned what was needed to do a job. See this more and more the older I get.
#57
#58
How long did you run it with the other flywheel ? If too long you could have damaged something internally. Might also check the harmonic balancer to see if the outer ring has slipped, that too will throw the balance off. Get the #1 piston to TDC on the firing stroke, then look to see where the timing pointer is in relation to the marks on the balancer. The "TDC" should be right at the timing pointer if the outer ring has not slipped
#59
#60
Yea, I hear you. But the location of the counterweight in relation to it's distance from the centerline of the crank will require a different sized counterweight, even though the two parts are the same imbalance factor. I've seen this a lot looking at even stock Ford flywheels and flexplates. More so often with flexplates because the counterweight is welded to the flexplate. But comparing two different brand flywheels could also exhibit this