Need Advice On A Purchase!
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Need Advice On A Purchase!
I am looking at this 1993 ford bronco. This is what the guy sent me about the truck
The motor has 10- 15,000 miles on it the truck has 165,000 miles The motor has a modified cam its a RV cam I have the original .the lift is a Pro Comp inch lift with dual shocks and the body has a 3 inch lift the tires are 32s but the truck could use bigger maybe 35-36s the truck also has a new torque converter subwoofer w amp.The truck has the towing package but needs a new trailer hitch to the frame because of the body lift. like I said before mechanically is where I dumped all my money it still needs cosmetic make over.)
I am going to look at it this weekend. Is there anything i should look for ar be concerned about when i go to take a look? Also does anyone know what a
RV camshaft is as far as quality and so forth. I would appreciate any advice you could give me on this so i know what im doing this weekend.
The motor has 10- 15,000 miles on it the truck has 165,000 miles The motor has a modified cam its a RV cam I have the original .the lift is a Pro Comp inch lift with dual shocks and the body has a 3 inch lift the tires are 32s but the truck could use bigger maybe 35-36s the truck also has a new torque converter subwoofer w amp.The truck has the towing package but needs a new trailer hitch to the frame because of the body lift. like I said before mechanically is where I dumped all my money it still needs cosmetic make over.)I am going to look at it this weekend. Is there anything i should look for ar be concerned about when i go to take a look? Also does anyone know what a
RV camshaft is as far as quality and so forth. I would appreciate any advice you could give me on this so i know what im doing this weekend.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Welcome to FTE and the Big Bronco Forum.
And RV cam is a low-end-power cam used in the Recreational Vehicle (motor home) industry to improve the pulling power of the factory engines in Ford powered vehicles. (I'm sure the GM versions have the same type cam available). Its an interesting claim considering the fact that speed density fuel injection will not allow too much cam modification and still work properly. However, there are cams available and the ones used in RV's would be the easiest to come by. The tow package will have a four-core radiator, auxillary transmission cooler (mounted in front of the radiator), and front and rear sway bars along with the factory auxillary front shocks (in most cases). If the truck has all that lift and still runs 32's then he most likely hasn't yet re-geared the axles to accomodate larger tires. The new TC was probably necessary with the increased low-end power from the modified cam especially in a truck with 100K + on it.
Check inside the airbox UNDER the air filter for motor oil. High mileage 5.0's and 5.8's are notorious for losing oil control and it shows up in the blow-by that gets pulled through the induction system. Make certain the tranfser case engages and disengages more than once and into both 4-HI and 4-LO. The electronically-shifted T-cases chew up shift motors more frequently than most of us would like to admit. Keep an eye on the front tire condition. If the outer edge of the tires have begun to "Cup" (sawtooth appearance to the tread lugs) chances are the alignment is off and may be so because of the lift. This is not impossible but can be difficult to rectify which means you will chew up tires until you can fix it properly. Mechanically, those are probably the most common problem areas.
As for the cosmetics, well, rear quarters over the wheels and the lower edge of the tailgate (particularly up under the bottom edge of the sheet metal) are usually the first things to rust away. Make sure the rear glass runs properly all the way up and all the way down. Make certain the tailgate will indeed open and shut properly. The tailgate and rear glass can be a source of numerous concerns if they have not been maintained. Its most likely that it will already have a crack at the rear of each rain gutter near where the fiberglass section of the top and the steel roofline meet. Its a very common problem. These should be the biggest cosmetic concerns.
I touched on most of the more common problems but you might want to check this Red Link or the one in my signature for more information.
And RV cam is a low-end-power cam used in the Recreational Vehicle (motor home) industry to improve the pulling power of the factory engines in Ford powered vehicles. (I'm sure the GM versions have the same type cam available). Its an interesting claim considering the fact that speed density fuel injection will not allow too much cam modification and still work properly. However, there are cams available and the ones used in RV's would be the easiest to come by. The tow package will have a four-core radiator, auxillary transmission cooler (mounted in front of the radiator), and front and rear sway bars along with the factory auxillary front shocks (in most cases). If the truck has all that lift and still runs 32's then he most likely hasn't yet re-geared the axles to accomodate larger tires. The new TC was probably necessary with the increased low-end power from the modified cam especially in a truck with 100K + on it.
Check inside the airbox UNDER the air filter for motor oil. High mileage 5.0's and 5.8's are notorious for losing oil control and it shows up in the blow-by that gets pulled through the induction system. Make certain the tranfser case engages and disengages more than once and into both 4-HI and 4-LO. The electronically-shifted T-cases chew up shift motors more frequently than most of us would like to admit. Keep an eye on the front tire condition. If the outer edge of the tires have begun to "Cup" (sawtooth appearance to the tread lugs) chances are the alignment is off and may be so because of the lift. This is not impossible but can be difficult to rectify which means you will chew up tires until you can fix it properly. Mechanically, those are probably the most common problem areas.
As for the cosmetics, well, rear quarters over the wheels and the lower edge of the tailgate (particularly up under the bottom edge of the sheet metal) are usually the first things to rust away. Make sure the rear glass runs properly all the way up and all the way down. Make certain the tailgate will indeed open and shut properly. The tailgate and rear glass can be a source of numerous concerns if they have not been maintained. Its most likely that it will already have a crack at the rear of each rain gutter near where the fiberglass section of the top and the steel roofline meet. Its a very common problem. These should be the biggest cosmetic concerns.
I touched on most of the more common problems but you might want to check this Red Link or the one in my signature for more information.
