Choke cable
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Choke cable
Last summer i switched from a 2bbl to a 4bbl, well all went well, except for the choke cable was to short. as far as i know it is factory lenght. I am only lacking maybe 2-4''( as best i can remember). Is there any way i can make the stock one work maybe adding to it? Do i need to buy another one? also how does that puppy come apart? does the **** come off? thanks Also do all cables from venders seem to be about the same quality?
Also can does anyone know the difference in mid fiftys choke cables part number 1013 and 1014? One is $25 one is $12??
Also can does anyone know the difference in mid fiftys choke cables part number 1013 and 1014? One is $25 one is $12??
Last edited by cbfomoco; Feb 6, 2006 at 08:16 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 327
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From: Los Angeles
I had to fabricate a little extension on mine. You should be able to unscrew the face plate and slide the back half down and out of the truck. Any replacement should be long enough. If you want to use the one you have you'll need to fabricate a bracket to hold the cable guide and tie an extension on to the cable itself. A small return spring will help open the choke when push the **** in and keep the linkage from binding.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 351
From: Mandan, ND
This worked for me. I replaced a choke cable on a fellow's 53 car. His incorrect cable wouldn't work on his correct carb. He ordered a universal one from a vender. $20? bucks or so, even though you basically get the same thing from a Briggs and Stratton fixit man for $10 or less, and this gives you six feet or so.
Open the shaft tube the sheath goes into. It may be crimped, so you will have to drill out the crimp. Pull the sheath out out of the tube, then slide the tube off the shaft. With a vice grip and some luck, you can twist the cable out of the shaft. If it breaks, drill it out. Then install new cable into hole with some JB Quick Weld. Let cure! Insert cable into tube, then sheath. Smear some JB on the new sheath and twist it into the tube and carefully clamp it shut. I suppose you could hit it with a sharp nail to crimp it, I didn't. Let this cure. Install in dash, then out the firewall, mark the correct length, then trim sheath and cable with a Dremel. I had great success, and was able to use the original ****. No potential heat damage from solder. If you wipe off any excess JB, it will look terrific.
Open the shaft tube the sheath goes into. It may be crimped, so you will have to drill out the crimp. Pull the sheath out out of the tube, then slide the tube off the shaft. With a vice grip and some luck, you can twist the cable out of the shaft. If it breaks, drill it out. Then install new cable into hole with some JB Quick Weld. Let cure! Insert cable into tube, then sheath. Smear some JB on the new sheath and twist it into the tube and carefully clamp it shut. I suppose you could hit it with a sharp nail to crimp it, I didn't. Let this cure. Install in dash, then out the firewall, mark the correct length, then trim sheath and cable with a Dremel. I had great success, and was able to use the original ****. No potential heat damage from solder. If you wipe off any excess JB, it will look terrific.
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