Hi 460's, and smog equipment are kinda new to me. Just pulled a 79 F-250 out of an orchard to swap my 66 over to 4x4. Strangely enough some gas and a jump and she started right up, no smoke and fluids look good. Guy told me it came out of a T-bird, seems pretty stock. Cast iron manifolds but with a holley 4bbl. She won't start with out dumping some gas in the top of the carb, and she'll stall till warm so I'll be rebuilding that, carbs look like it was back firing often, and timing is too far advanced. Main question is if I remove the smog pump and cap the manifold ports will I have any problems? What was the HP rating on a 70? something 460? Are the vacum lines going to the tank needed for anything other than fuel vapor return? Any suggestions besides rebuilding carb, turn up, and compression check?
Thanks for your help, T.J.

 

I did something a little the same; I put a 460 into my '66. What are the casting numbers on the heads? That will tell us a bit more about the motor. If they are D3, then you have good ones, you don't need to do any modifications.
(D2 heads are really prone to detonation, they have no quench point. Anything earlier is good too.)
The best bang for the buck modification would be to put in a '69/70 429 timing gear set. That will really restore power and reliability.
The next one will be to put on a aftermarket intake, and an aftermarket carb.
The third one would be to put in a camshaft. Of coure, you need to work the intake/carb/camshaft combination to fit your intended use of the truck.
I put in an RV cam, with an Edelbrock Performer (not RPM) intake with an Edelbrock 1411 750 CFM carb into my '66 F-100.
Finally, you WILL need the passenger side exhaust TRUCK manifold, if the one in there is a car manifold. You can tell if it has the car or truck manifold by if the passenger side frame or inner fender was cut or notched at all. The car manifold won't work.

Hope this helps.

 

I bought a '78 F 150 Super Cab with a factory 460...all power and air... last summer and have been working on it since. The previous owner had already done all the engine mechanical work and he did a good job on that part of it. The engine is really strong and has good vacuum (if I can get all the little vacuum lines replaced...once I figure out where all the hoses should go...many were missing on the engine when I got the truck and so I am looking for some diagram to show me how to reconnect them...or perhaps I can find a similar truck in this area to look at) and it starts up first time and idles very good for a street truck...
Here is what the previous owner did...hope it helps.
Other than the .060 over bore and the balancing and decking, etc...(the block was an original 460 D3VE with Ford D6VE heads) the aftermarket parts he used were these...
Edlebrock intake #2166
Edlebrock carb...750 #1411
Crane cam CRA-353942
Proform HEI distributor... 66980B
And there is a full 2.5" dual exhaust system (he put factory cast exhaust manifolds back on because he said he did not want to fool with header bolts for a daily driver...guess he did not ever hear of Stage 8 or something similar...) with the pipes running down the passenger side until the dual exits behind both rear wheels.
The work on the motor seems to have been done well and I have had no trouble with that part of the old truck.
I could tell you stories about the repair on the air conditioning and play in the steering and lots of little things I have had to repair or replace...but the engine work was well done and has given me no problems to date.
Good luck with your project.
cactusflower818@yahoo.com

 

While you're at it you may want to see about ditching the manifolds altogether and putting in a set of headers instead. The exhaust on these engines is extremely restrictive. The aftermarket cams will help a bit but you'll really hinder power with the stock manifolds.

 

Thanks for the info...I know the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds are very restrictive esp given what all has been done to the engine by the previous owner...I am about 2/3 finished with the resto on this old truck (I did a '70 302 two years ago and sold it back to the original owner here and so...just had to have another one to work on)...all body work is done and it is in primer now...but am not certain I will finish it up...might sell it as is now...or might sell my '00 Navigator...one of the two will have to go I am afraid...my daily driving habits here in the Texas hill country almost make manditory the Nav...but...I have spent so much $ on this '78...I hate to see all that money, time, and effort go away.
But...surely...if I keep the '78...I will change the exhaust manifolds to headers.
I am wondering if you know about diagrams for the vacuum lines on this model/engine...I am looking for pics of a '73-'79 460 with air as I figure any photos of the engine would show how the rubber tubing should be routed...(I have not looked at the gallery photos in FTE in a while...perhaps there are some pics there that would be of some help) actually I am only missing the line from one of the two male nipples of the round canister on the air/heater hose...I replaced the other ones...and found out how to route the ones that go to the round canister by the master cylinder...but I cannot figure out where the second line from that darn thing on the heater hose should hook in someplace...the previous owner just plugged a couple of rubber lines going into the intake manifold and left it at that...everything works...air cond, etc...but the thought of a line not hooked up bothers me.
Again...thanks for the info.
cactusflower

 

I'm looking for an intake for it. I agree that I'm only gonna get heartache by trying to bypass smog with that intake. Looks like a quadra-jet intake with the smog adapter, too many spacers and newer spread bore 600 holley 4160. Secondarys were partaly blocked by adapter plate, and fuel only coming out of half the accelerator pump nozzles. I still haven't looked for the engine code. Where is it anyway? Found out it's out of a 76 T-Bird, useing T-bird manifolds too but nothing is cut or notched. Looks like several places are selling this carb as a replacement for 351M/429/460's is it just me or does it sound a little small for the motor? Been looking for headers too, not coming up with much.

 

Alright brushed off the rat turds from the intake and removed that it was a D6. Heads are D3. Compression check was 130 accross the board, so I'm goona leave motor as is for now. Still looking for headers, and an intake. Would it be better to advance my cam one tooth or just swap in a pre 73 timing set? I don't see a part number on it so I'm not sure what it is now. Also thinking of a cam swap while I'm here. Anybody running a Torker II intake, or have cam recommendations? Still not sure if I'm gonna rebuild and use the 600 holley, or throw on my 750 carter.
P.s. What color Blue was Ford using in 66?

 

Part Number/Work Order Number 22242
Engine Application 370-460 FORD
Grind Number 284HDP
ADVERTISED CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS:

INTAKE: Duration: 284º Lift: 0.552 Clearence Hot: 0
EXHAUST: Duration: 290º Lift: 0.567 Clearence Hot: 0 112 lobe sep

How will this work on that motor with an Edelbrock torker II, 750 holley, pre smog timing set, and set of headers. Will the stock springs, and valve train handle this? Opinions would be helpful, don't know much about big blocks. I also want to keep my power brakes.
Thanks T.J.

 

Alright this what I ended up with. Isky 256/262 supercam, stock valvetrain minus springs. some swap meet headers I'm not sure are gonna fit. f-600 rad, hi flow water pump, pre-emissions timing set, and a carter 750cfm. Heres the question, I still need an intake. Gotta line on Edelbrock RPM Performer. Is that too much intake for the cam I'm running or close enough, was looking for a Wieand stealth but no luck. Anyone got any comments?
Thanks T.J.

 

The RPM Performer would be a good choice. I think the Weiand Stealth flows a little better at the top end but if I remember right it'll sacrifice just a little power at lower RPM vs the Edelbrock. Maybe Rob or someone else can confirm that. Either intake would work fine for you, you're just going to get into a Performer for a lot less $$.

 

if all you boys would put them edelbrock intakes back on the ****vys and get a weind , 0 to around 5000 rpm , you could get your 460s doin a lot better. you got to remimber 460s only need to turn about 2150 to 2800 rpms to reach full power, when built correctly. my last one peaked at 674 hp at 2680 rpms, at the rear wheel on pump gas. and i drove it every day with no vacume problems or over heating.

 

on that note I call BS in order to get 674hp at 2680 rpms that is 1321 ft/lbs of torque, and there is not way your getting anywhere near that even with a blower and nitrous on a stroker engine.

Don't come in here and try and baffle us with bull, there is too many knowledgable people on here, to even remotely believe that type of stuff and posting a comment on that means there is no chance anyone is going to believe anything you say.

BTW my stroker 460 makes peak power at around 7000rpm and I shift it at 7200, so don't tell me a 460 only makes power down low on the rpm range.

 

If you were making such great power at such low RPM why didn't you use the stock intake? That's what they're good for. I sure wish you'd teach us boys how to build an engine. I'd love to know how to get near 700hp out of a 460 at under 3,000rpm. Then I'd patent that plan and sell it for millions.

Btw, if you're gonna run your mouth you should at least have somewhat a clue what you're talking about. The Weiand doesn't peak at 5,000rpm, it peaks at almost 7,000. Someone needs to call those idiots at Holley and ask them why they're making intakes to rev so high when a 460 makes all it's power at 2680 RPM.

 

yeah i"d like to see that too.674 at the rear wheels,hmmm thats got to be over 800+ at the crank then.that thing would be down right miserable to drive on the street,besides below 3k a performer will make more tq than a stealth.wonder which village lost their idiot