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I've got a 90' F150 with an 8.8" rear diff and 3.08 gears, at the moment. I want to swap to some 3.90s and get a posi in there. Right now I've got some crazy wheelhop and I want to get power to both wheels. What would you guys recommend for a good setup to go with? Any reputable brands to look for? Thanks for the help in advance.
I've got a 90' F150 with an 8.8" rear diff and 3.08 gears, at the moment. I want to swap to some 3.90s and get a posi in there. Right now I've got some crazy wheelhop and I want to get power to both wheels. What would you guys recommend for a good setup to go with? Any reputable brands to look for? Thanks for the help in advance.
Believe it or not you wheel hop is greatly agrevated by your tall gears and driveline and axle torque wrap up as engine.driveline torque try to lift RR tire off the ground. Deeper gear will help this a lot and if you have big tires I would suggest a 4.10 (for 31's or so) or 4.56 or better for 33's to 35's). There is no magic force that hold the axle in place as driveshaft torque try to lift up/twist axle housing from torque input. Deeper gear allow for the same tractive effort at ground with less axle torque input and less resulting wrapup.
Believe it or not you wheel hop is greatly agrevated by your tall gears and driveline and axle torque wrap up as engine.driveline torque try to lift RR tire off the ground. Deeper gear will help this a lot and if you have big tires I would suggest a 4.10 (for 31's or so) or 4.56 or better for 33's to 35's). There is no magic force that hold the axle in place as driveshaft torque try to lift up/twist axle housing from torque input. Deeper gear allow for the same tractive effort at ground with less axle torque input and less resulting wrapup.
BULLSHAVIC!!!!
put on a set of ladder bars. that will get rid of the wheel hop/ axle wrap. putting 456 gears in will only blow your motor from over revving it, and get you 5 mpg fuel mileage. 3.90 gears are not very road compatible, a better gear set would be 3.55's
put on a set of ladder bars. that will get rid of the wheel hop/ axle wrap. putting 456 gears in will only blow your motor from over revving it, and get you 5 mpg fuel mileage. 3.90 gears are not very road compatible, a better gear set would be 3.55's
I guess you believe in that magic force that gets everthing in place. ANYTIME you want to sit down with a pencil and paper I can prove it to you. ( and this is the key difference here, there is science and physics behind mine and BS behind yours) The blind leading the blind here. Such narrow vision did not put a man on the moon.
Not very road compatible? What's that supposed to mean? This is street truck, it's a 2WD 5-Speed 302 and I'm building it to go fast. I don't have 33s. I want a nice combination of better acceleration while keeping driveability. I think 3.90's would pull that off nicely with the 5 speed. I'm just not sure where to go for a posi/locker?..
i would go with a detroit locker if you have the money if not then a powertrax lock rite. 3.90 will give you good off the line but not so good for top speed i would go with 3.55 for stock tires and 4.10 or 4.56 is the worst suggestion i have heard for someone looking for speed. your engine would be screamin at 65. with 4.56 you would be doin about 3500 RPM with 1:1 in the tranny and with the 4.10 3200 with od it wont be so bad but i wouldent suggest it.
A positive traction diff will help some with your problem.Asyou gas on your engine your springs try to do this(~) If you add ladder bars or some other traction aid device,it will help hold your pinion angle constant and stop this(~)The key to getting power to the ground is to retain pinion angle and try to stop axle wrap.
sorry, i should have written that a little different i guess. what i meant was, with the 3.55 gear, you will have good acceleration, and good gas mileage. with a 3.90 gear, you will be great off the line, but your gas mileage will suffer.a 3.55 gear is more everyday street driver oriented, and a 3.90 gear is more on the side of a once in a while streetcar.
and snowblower, pencil and paper mean nothing to me. real world experience is where its at. i have had it up to my ears with idiot engineers that sit and preach that i designed this, this is the way it has to be, it works on paper. my answer to these idiots is always the same. OK, do it. after a few hours, days, or weeks, the pencil and paper idiots come back and admit defeat, asking how do i do it rite, and what did i do wrong. sit, watch, and learn.
i have never seen 1 thing that you have said that was not inflammatory, or flat out wrong. and if you want to go 1 step farther, why is it that everyone considers you a troll, and respect what i say???
i only comment on what i know, not on what i read in a book somewhere.
sorry, i should have written that a little different i guess. what i meant was, with the 3.55 gear, you will have good acceleration, and good gas mileage. with a 3.90 gear, you will be great off the line, but your gas mileage will suffer.a 3.55 gear is more everyday street driver oriented, and a 3.90 gear is more on the side of a once in a while streetcar.
and snowblower, pencil and paper mean nothing to me. real world experience is where its at. i have had it up to my ears with idiot engineers that sit and preach that i designed this, this is the way it has to be, it works on paper. my answer to these idiots is always the same. OK, do it. after a few hours, days, or weeks, the pencil and paper idiots come back and admit defeat, asking how do i do it rite, and what did i do wrong. sit, watch, and learn.
i have never seen 1 thing that you have said that was not inflammatory, or flat out wrong. and if you want to go 1 step farther, why is it that everyone considers you a troll, and respect what i say???
i only comment on what i know, not on what i read in a book somewhere.
If they wish to take ficton over fact that is their problem not mine. The orginal poster has the choice. Also if calling me a troll because you or others do not understand the science makes you/them feel good, have at it but it does not changes the facts or physics of the issue. I guess you feel that if you believe ficton long enough it becomes fact but such is not the case. Install some 4.10 or 4.56's and the tire hop will greatly abate or go away or you can try the wrong way to fix it rather than admit to the science of it. I have found that their are 3 kinds of people inn forums. those that are looking for answers, thouse that have the answers or know when to ceed to thoise that do and those that are really clueless and go to great lengths to save face when they are caught in error and you are not in the first two groups on this subject. (I guess the snowblower was a diversion too)
BTW even a 3.73 would help some but I would go deeper if oversized rubber is present.
Last edited by The SnoMan; Feb 6, 2006 at 06:42 PM.
but he aint runnin oversize tires if you look at the picture they are the standard size plus he said it. he would have better luck with the 3.08s in there now and ladder bars than 4.56s and none he would be slow and over work the engine. there is a reason the factory put 3.08 and 3.55 as standard IT IS WHAT WORKED WITH THE TIRES GOOD. 3.73s would probably be pretty good also. also are your shocks shot? that could be part of the wheel hop problem.
i don't need a pencil and piece of paper, or an engineering degree to look at the picture and tell that he is running a 29 or 30 inch tall tire.
and as for who to believe, i think it has been proven quite a few times in a few other sections of this forum that you don't know your posterior from a hole in the ground.
for someone that has supposedly done so much in your many many years on this rock, you still don't know squat. but i must say, your gallery and truck listing in your profile are the absolute best here. just ask anyone in club F.T.E.
It might actually have taller tires than stock. 275/65R17 is what's on there. I'm almost positive that's bigger. I don't understand why 3.90s would be more on the occasional driver side. I know people with 4.10s and it's their daily driver and they have a 5 speed. Very driveable. I'm still not 100% sure what I want but I've got plenty in store for the rear soon enough. New shocks all around, traction bars, sway bar, lowered a couple inches.
I'm not changing the gears to solve the wheelhop. I'm changing the gears for the increased acceleration. I don't want it to be crazy revvy, but I want it to be faster. I'm also trying to decide what to get for a posi. I'm not sure what the spline of axle I would have would be.. that's an 8.8", right? I'm new to Ford..
It might actually have taller tires than stock. 275/65R17 is what's on there. I'm almost positive that's bigger. I don't understand why 3.90s would be more on the occasional driver side. I know people with 4.10s and it's their daily driver and they have a 5 speed. Very driveable. I'm still not 100% sure what I want but I've got plenty in store for the rear soon enough. New shocks all around, traction bars, sway bar, lowered a couple inches.
I'm not changing the gears to solve the wheelhop. I'm changing the gears for the increased acceleration. I don't want it to be crazy revvy, but I want it to be faster. I'm also trying to decide what to get for a posi. I'm not sure what the spline of axle I would have would be.. that's an 8.8", right? I'm new to Ford..
I understand you want to increase performance but you will reduce/control wheel hop to from reduced drive line torque wrapup. Below is a link to a tire size/axle ratio calculator if you need one.
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