Sub frame question.....
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From: Russell Mb
Sub frame question.....
Is there any info out there about tieing the sub frames together to get a little more rigidity? I am doing the rear springs on my aero awd and was wondering if I could get a little more stability by installing a link system. Any thoughts?
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From: SoCal
The uses a complete frame already, sort of. Instead of a front and rear subframe welded to the ends of a floor pan like most unibody cars, it has a pair of semi-frame
rails that run the full length of the vehicle. They aren't the same as the real box-rails that big trucks have, as the Aero's frames are boxes wth 3 sides, with the floor pan that it's welded to forming the 4th side. This makes its body much stronger than the other vans with unibodies.
As Dracoscott wrote, if you want more stability, you should consider installing an anti-sway bar in the back. The other possibility is to install stiffer springs and firmer dampers (shock absorbers), but these may take some searching around to find.
rails that run the full length of the vehicle. They aren't the same as the real box-rails that big trucks have, as the Aero's frames are boxes wth 3 sides, with the floor pan that it's welded to forming the 4th side. This makes its body much stronger than the other vans with unibodies.
As Dracoscott wrote, if you want more stability, you should consider installing an anti-sway bar in the back. The other possibility is to install stiffer springs and firmer dampers (shock absorbers), but these may take some searching around to find.
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From: Russell Mb
Thanks XLT....I jumped the gun on the question. I assumed that they had a dual sub frame assembly....but found as you state. Have you a drawing of the sway bar? I have a few laying around....lol
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From: Mitchell, SD
Here are a couple pics of Copper setup on his van.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42..._rarb_side.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42..._rarb_rear.jpg
You might want to PM him what exact brand they are. Not too tuff to install an hour or so to do.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42..._rarb_side.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42..._rarb_rear.jpg
You might want to PM him what exact brand they are. Not too tuff to install an hour or so to do.
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From: SoCal
Hi Dunco,
The links that 93nighthawk referenced are pictures I took and gave to Copper of the sway bar I installed in my van. I think I got it from Summit Racing a couple of years ago. It's either Helwig or Addco, I just can't remember any more, but if you search on Summit's web site, it will say.
The links that 93nighthawk referenced are pictures I took and gave to Copper of the sway bar I installed in my van. I think I got it from Summit Racing a couple of years ago. It's either Helwig or Addco, I just can't remember any more, but if you search on Summit's web site, it will say.
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From: Mitchell, SD
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Mountain Pass
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In the second image, looking at the differential cover, is that a normal amount of seepage past the gasket?
If so.... my life just got easier... The original owner sold me the van because of that seepage and the front end 'thump' (that's being removed by refreshing the bushings).
Back to my search for differentail fluid/oil opinions...
Dale
If so.... my life just got easier... The original owner sold me the van because of that seepage and the front end 'thump' (that's being removed by refreshing the bushings).
Back to my search for differentail fluid/oil opinions...
Dale
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From: Washington state
depends on where the seepage is coming from....rear pumpkin cover gasket==ok......front pinion shaft seal snout==Mr Fix It time....any seepage worrys me and has to be monitored...run low on lube and $$$$$ time....rear end only holds 2 quarts...fluid level in pumpkin is important for outer wheel bearing lube...diffs, tranny and TC rely on oil for major part of gear cooling
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
Post Fiend
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From: Washington state
pinion shaft seal leaks can point to far more $eriou$ or soon to be $eriou$ problems....can be caused by just simple loose pinion shaft preload adustment....or failing pinion shaft bearings or races which are easily examined....or failing driveline u-joints which add extra torsional whip loading to the pinion shaft and seal....leaking can also be caused by rear end overheating from ring/pinion gear problems or carrier problems....
what is a simple aggrevating seep can quickly turn into a wallet draining experience at Joe Smuck's knuckle dragger auto repair emporium in one cow townville on vacation...nothing like a captive audience family on vacation for cash dipping...the shop gets double...the only motel charges double...the only resturant charges double
Who wants to meet Joe Smuck auto monkyanic?
what is a simple aggrevating seep can quickly turn into a wallet draining experience at Joe Smuck's knuckle dragger auto repair emporium in one cow townville on vacation...nothing like a captive audience family on vacation for cash dipping...the shop gets double...the only motel charges double...the only resturant charges double
Who wants to meet Joe Smuck auto monkyanic?
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From: SoCal
I don't see any obvious play in the U-joint, so it may be in the pinion itself. I may have to take the pinion apart to look at the bearings, since I'm going in to replace the seal anyway. What should I check for? Also, since there is also a chance of a loose pinion preload, I can not trust the existing preload to re-torque the new spacer to. What is a good value to torque to with the new spacer? I recall that Ford Motorsports made a non-crushable spacer for the 9" diff for heavy duty use, such as drag racing. Is there something like that for the 8.8" diff?
This is evolving to a different topic from the original, so if there is something inthe archives about this, can someone point me to it?
This is evolving to a different topic from the original, so if there is something inthe archives about this, can someone point me to it?
