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Well Im having smog problems. The old ford was just called a gross polluter.
1)Thermostatic Air cleaner missing.
2)Vacuum line to air cleaner assembly missing.
3)Fuel Cap Integrity test-FAILED.
4)HC 2500RPM FAIL, HC Idle-FAIL, CO IDLE-FAIL.
Whatsup??
He told me that if it costs more than $450 to fix Ill get a waiver. Thats one expensive waiver. It will cost $150 just to get into it. Id rather have it fixed but where do I start. Ive put in new plugs,timing is right on. New dist, cap, rotor. Could the carb be way out of wack?? It is missing alittle. EGR??
Start with a used air cleaner from the junk yard for $20, get one that has the exhaust heat riser and flap on it. Take off the vac lines and get new ones the same size and replace ALL the vac lines. Get a new gas cap.
The EGR valve lowers the temp in the combustion chamber and effects the NOX level. so look at the NOX level and see how high it is. On some cars, you can activate the EGR valve at idle and the car will die or nearly die. You can activate the EGR valve ususally by disconnecting the vac line or appling intake vac to it at idle (depending on the type of EGR valve)
If you have a cat, replace it. They wear out after a few years and sometimes less if the engine is running rich. check the carb for running too rich and maybe have it rebuilt but I'd do the carb before the cat, otherwise a rich carb will start killing the cat.
A cat MUST be hot to work properly, make sure it's mounted where it was from the factory and that the truck is fully warmed up before testing.
I went from gross poluter to extra clean with a new cat and turning a few screws on the fuel system.
The first three should be easy fixes as stated in the last post. You'll need a heat stove (I think) that attatches to the exhaust manifold to feed hot air into the air cleaner assembly when cold. I don't know the specifics with the 8's. If you have a smog pump on your truck check it out for operation. I haven't tried this, but it was mentioned in a book I read : change the oil a couple of times prior to your next test.
Get what you can visually fixed. Put super in the tank. Take it out for a nice long drive on the hiway to get the engine hot. Pull in and get the test ASAP w/o turning it off or letting it idle for extended periods. If they sell a product called RXP gas additive in your area, use it before getting the check. Try Kwik Kar Lube, O'Rileys or Autozone.
Getting the engine to operating temp is imparitive.
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