new 60 pin processor???
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: The Rolling Rock Town
new 60 pin processor???
hey all, my check engine light will not work in my 87 F150 I6 EFI and ive run all tests to determine the fault to be my 60 pin processor according to the Chiltons EEc diagnostic book. the truck runs perfectly but the light wil not come on and it will not send data to my otc 4000 enhanced scan tool (or anything else for that matter). i have continuity to the socket which is new and the bulb is new. i even plugged it into the turn signal to insure that it works... i think it would be rather stupid to buy a processor to solve a light not coming on... any help is appreciated
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
What does not make sense to me is why the truck runs perfectly if the PCM is at fault. It may be just that one particular function of the PCM isn't working. It's possible for part of an IC or PCB to fail. I would do some more checking - maybe some of the connector pins in the socket are corroded or you have a short somewhere?
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: The Rolling Rock Town
whats strange is that the book states that if there is power to the socket, and the bulb works, then the processor is to be replaced. seems pretty asinine to me so ive been digging through wires and checking grounds... hoping to find a more adequate answer then part replacement...i wish i had a breakout box
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
If you turn the key from off, to on (but not start) the light will either light, or light for a short while and turn off.
Then you know the light is working. Maybe the fuse is blown, or the wiring is bad, or the socket is corroded.
Assuming it does light at that point, there are instances where the truck "runs perfect" and the EEC is not working correctly - i.e. it feels right because it's stuck in open loop.
Then you know the light is working. Maybe the fuse is blown, or the wiring is bad, or the socket is corroded.
Assuming it does light at that point, there are instances where the truck "runs perfect" and the EEC is not working correctly - i.e. it feels right because it's stuck in open loop.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: The Rolling Rock Town
bulb is good(brand new) socket is good (brand new) both were tested in the turn signal socket to verify that they did work correctly
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 1
From: Central NY
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
Likes: 40
From: Concord, NC
I've yet to see an 87 with a working check engine light. The circuit is there on the printed circuit on the back of the gauge cluster, but there is no wire between the computer harness and the dash (or a pin in the dash harness for that matter). You can verify this by pulling the cluster, tracing the circuit to where the harness plugs in and then look to see if there is a wire in the harness. I bet there isn't. The thing about it that I don't understand is that the code reader won't work either. Maybe try it with an analog voltmeter (positive to battery, negative to STO, turn key on and see if you get 12V to test the output from the computer). Then if there is 12V with the key on, turn it off and try to run the diagnostic check again.
