Hey, I am looking to purchase a set of new headers for my1992 302. What are some good ones to get.

 

I have got a '93 F-150 also with the 302. I recently put on a new set of Hedman headers. These just replace the stock manifold. I can't say that I have noticed any power increase because we bought the truck with headers on it. I dont know what to expect out of it.

 

jba,gibson,edelbrock,bbk and bassini all make great headers. the key is having a thick 3/8th flange so they dont warp an start leaking. you get what you pay for when it comes to headers so buyer beware.

 

Flowtechs are cheap...usually about half price. And they work pretty good too.

They only have a .25" flange, but if you cut the flange in to 4 individual flanges so each pipe has its own flange they do not warp. Doing that also will make gaskets last a lot longer, bolts don't loosen, and there easier to install.

I started doing that with every set of headers I have gotten and it makes a big difference. I would even do it with the headers with heavy flanges

 

flowtechs are crap. you shouldnt have to cut the flanges if the header was made correctly. and cutting the flange can cause the header pipes to crack at the collectors. Sorry DaveBowman dont take personal but i feel that is not the Right way to go here. im sure others would agree.

 

Pacesetter ARMOR*COAT ceramic-metallic coated shorty headers are the ones I put on my 87 302. I also used the copper gaskets and never had a problem as long as I owned the truck. I paid extra for the armor coat but even after 2 1/2 years they still looked good. I have got a manifold leaking on my 93 351 and am thinking about getting a set for it.

 

Summit Shory Truck headers are Pacesetter Truck headers and are cheap.

 

Yes but the problem with the headders is that the header and the flange itself will get a lot hotter than the head does, and because of the difference in heat and the properties of mild steel compared to cast they expand at different rates. Thats the main cause of headder geskets blowing out and header bolts loosening. By seperating the flanges gaskets last forever because each pipe's flange is not forced in to moving along the head from heat expansion because of the flange heating up.
Its very common knowledge with headers. More common on some engines compared to others.

Like I said I have been running many headders for many many years, and after I started seperating the flanges I never had gasket problems or bolts loosening after that. Many times I have been able put a set of headers on and never even have to retorque bolts for 200,000 miles. It also makes the instalation easier, and on some engines makes spark plug access easier.


If the welds are cracking at the collector its either because your exhaust is putting too much force on the header (no hanger taking the weight) of you have bad engine mounts fatigueing th ewelds and leading to the cracks. Cracks at the collector will not be caused by seperating the head flange.

 

Johnson...interesting information. I'd been looking at getting either the Pacesetter's or the Flowtech shorties...but the Summit ones match both's specs for 40-60 dollars cheaper..heck they're all gonna rust (barring a ceramic coating), so what's the point?

I still don't see how the flange cutting helps. Without the constant flange each pair of bolts are on their own. With the flange, they all have help from their "partners".

 

Thats exactally the problem. If theres 4 individual flanges bolted on the head without being connected together the flanges are not forced in to moving along the head from the difference in heat expansion between the header flange and the head.
With some engines its not a problem, and with some engines its a big problem. With the small Ford I would say its a slight problem. Whatever engine you have, if its always blowing out header gaskets, or the header bolts are backing out, seperate the flanges and your problems will end. Or if you have headers on an engine that does a lot of towing or hauling in the mountains you almost need to seperate the flanges with any engine to get them to last. Otherwise it seems like every 6 to 12 months your going to be having to replace the gaskets.

 

the key is 1" long header bolts, and good quality gaskets. if having the flange cut was the ticket everyone would be doing it and you could buy them that way.

I would stay clear of the summit brand as well. they are manufacturer seconds and its hit or miss on quality. if you get a quality product it pays for itself in the long run

 

The Summit Headers I bought had no problems with them except there was more weld spatter on the headers then most I've seen but the spatter can be picked off.

 

Good quality gaskets will blow out just like cheap gaskets do on headers. Most the time when gaskets blow out its because the exhaust starts to leak past the gasket. Caused by several reasons, it can either be because the bolts are backing out, or more commonly the gasket is shrinking up (which is why its important the bolts are retorqued at about 100 and 1000 miles). Also from extreeme temperatures, which seperating the flanges will help or eleminate gasket problems from that reason.
For an ideal and permanimtly trouble free set-up, you can even have the header surfaced and install it with no gasket at all. But doing that will require a different flange, and at least 1/2" thick to keep from having leaks. Look at any header made for serious towing, such as something from Banks, and there is no gasket required for instalation. They also have individual flanges for each port right out of the box.

The length of the bolt can lead gaskets blowing out and bolts loosening, but only if they are way too short. 3/4" bolts are fine unless you have a real thick flange and sealing ring. Some headers will have the flange and sealing ring over 1/2" thick, which in that case a 3/4" bolt would be a problem. With a 1/4" or 5/16" flange with a thinner ring a 3/4" bolt is acceptable. With that said I still always use the 1" bolts anyways instead of the 3/4" bolts they supply with headers. Also my biggest reason for getting new bolts is I'll get bolts with a 5/16" allen head instead of using the header bolts with the 3/8" hex head. Those are a PITA to get in and sometimes you can't get the box end of a wrench on them and you end up rounding them off trying to torque them with the open end. Allen bolts make a big difference because they can be torqued a lot easier, and tighter.

There really is no advantage to not seperating the flanges on any header. Most people who know, do it. More people probably would do it but everyone ignorantly says its not a good idea and talks them out of it.
Most header manufactures won't seperate flanges from the factory because it would make welding the flange to the tubes more difficult, and could possibly have alignment problems if not done right. The manufactures would rather sell something thats easy to manufacture, and can be bolted on and have no leaks instead of having a problem because one port's flange is slightly warped or was bent out of place during shipping. If someone installed a header like that the manufacturer is going to have to stand behind their header and replace it. They don't want to have to put the money out for that or get a bad reputation with there customers. Thats why they just leave all the flanges on one big flange. No alignment problems, no warping when welding... everyones happy. Untill the gaskets blow out of course, but most people have just accepted headers and gasket problems go hand in hand and they don't blame it on the manufactures.
However none of this mean headers can't be made with seperate flanges. TOP quality header manufactures are doing it, and there not having any problems. It just takes a lot more care and attention on the assembly and welding, which adds to the price. Now if a company wants to sell a lot of headers there going to make them as cheap as possible so there affordable.....some people don't want to spend $700 for a set of headers. If they make headers that expensive there not going to sell as many which will hurt the companies bottom line. No matter what you get these days, theres allways ways to make them better than what the manufacturer does. Most of the time its just because its an extra step that would cost more to manufacture.

 

ok thanks for the info