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Hey guys I have a 88 F150 4X4 I6 4 Speed Custom LWB I have a 8.8 rearend and I'm not sure what the front is other than it being a Dana but which one and I drive this on the street and tow trailers with it occaisionally. It has a 3in body lift that was on the truck when i bought it and I'm running LT315/75/15 Buckshot radials on it.
I'm planning on keeping the tire size on there so what size gears do i need to run to keep the same gear ratio as what was on there to start with. Probably 3.08s not sure though. Also my truck has the dual shocks up front is that typical of all 4x4 during this era or is it a offroad package. I take it offroad on weekends in some pretty nasty stuff and am considering welding the rearend is this a good ideal or not. I'm thinking about a locker because i haul with it and drive it on the street some if so what would be a good application.
i second the 4.10s but dont weld the rear if you are going to be driving it on road youll most likely mess something up and your tires will wear alot faster. sence you are going to be doing a gear change i would go with an ARB if money inst an issue if it is either a detroit or if money is really an issue what teds74 said ez locker or lockrite. also lockers dont really like towin they tend not to unlock that often under load if you tow alot then i would definately go with the ARB sence it is selectable.
Yeah, selectable is nice. I put in a lockrite, and it isn't too bad, but no where near as driveable as a selectable. Of course, if money wasn't a concern, there would be rockwells, a 514 stroker, tractor tires, nice paint....pretty much Ivan's truck. Come to think of it, how come money isn't a concern for him
either he doesent eat much or he just knows how to spend money and how much and where. it sure would be nice though.
This must be it, because hes only 26. Although, I do have a buddy who is 23 and he's got a '96 Dodge 2500 ex/cab short bed with a Cummins. He has put $12,000+ into the engine, at least $1500 in the drivetrain, and probly $3000 into his lift, wheels, and tires. Then theres all the accessories that truck has. But then again, he is a manager at Eli Lilly...
What was the topic again? oh right!
4.10's=good idea
buckshot radials=decent tires
welding your rear diff=BAD IDEA
getting a locker of some sort= great idea
Driving the Ford truck that you do =Brilliant!
Dual shocks are a ford option i think. I was told it was a off-road package that was offered with 2in of factory lift and dual shocks and an extra leaf in the rear all the way up thru at least 95 (have a friend at work that has same set up bought the truck new) This truck factory would turn 33's it doesn't even rub with the 315 except on the driver side due to weak coil spring I'm planning on leveling it with new springs. and money is an object I'm a 23 year old Machinist CNC/Programmer just married for 16 months and a baby due in august. I'm going to change to the 315 M/T Baja Radial for a street tire and buy a set of 35" Boggers for my offroad use I think, how are they in rocks we have a lot of shelf rock out here that will just shred your tires Like an all-terrian or something. And where is the best place to Buy tires online.
When you say ARB you mean the Auburn locker or something else. ALso does anyone know what size my front diff is a DANA 35, DANA 44, DANA 60. When the 300 I6 goes I'm lanning on putting in a 351 or a 460 but that may be years it only has 70,000 on the motor. Have to do it sooner I guess.
Last edited by Livewire88; Feb 1, 2006 at 05:27 AM.
If you are saying you are running 315s, that is roughly a 35 inch tire you might actually concider going to 4.56 gears. Your front is indeed a Dana 44 high pinion unit, with that said you will need to find/ buy a reverse rotation ring and pinion set. In addition to that, if you plan on running a gear deeper than 3.92 you will need a different carrier for your front differential. When I converted my 84 F150 from 3.08 to 4.10, I spent a little extra money and bought a Trac Lok limited slip carrier for the front. The 8.8 rear you won't have to worry about changing carriers, just install the gears and set the back lash. I am running a Powertrax No-Slip in the rear in my 84 with 33" Mud King XTs. I bought my gears through 4Wheelparts Wholesalers, they put together a nice combo: front and rear gears with install kits. I paid $400 for mine the price now I think is around $430, still not a bad deal. The Trac Lok carrier I bought through Bronco Graveyard for $200, they do have open carriers for the front if you dont want L.S. in the front. I too am running a 300 in my truck with a 4 speed grannybox, the 4.10s with 33s are a perfect match. With that said, that is why I thought 4.56s would be better for you because you are running basically 35s. Hope this helps.
Your year truck it is listed under "axle" on the door tag, plus, each axle has a metal tag with the ratio written on it. If the door and axle tags match, then you can be fairly sure that is what it is as long as noone has swapped them.
If you only tow once in a while, then go for the locker, if you tow a lot then go for a selectable locker. If you have a manual you can override a lot of the bad handling things while towing (especially in bad weather) by putting the clutch in before making a turn while giving a slight pressure/tap to the brake pedal.
When you say ARB you mean the Auburn locker or something else. ALso does anyone know what size my front diff is a DANA 35, DANA 44, DANA 60. When the 300 I6 goes I'm lanning on putting in a 351 or a 460 but that may be years it only has 70,000 on the motor. Have to do it sooner I guess.
I too am running a 300 in my truck with a 4 speed grannybox, the 4.10s with 33s are a perfect match. With that said, that is why I thought 4.56s would be better for you because you are running basically 35s. Hope this helps.
I suggested the 4.10s because he said he wanted close to stock. I have the 4.10s with 33s, like you, and it is a little low geared for the street. Mine seems pretty wound up at 65. It sure is a nice combo for local street/ offroad driving.
Yeah sometimes I wish I would have went with 35s instead, I am turning 2800 @ 65 mph with my 33s and 4.10s. I find myself in the right lane on the freeway getting passed more often than not. But on the other side when I put a heavy trailer behind it, the truck pulls like a dream . I absolutely love this setup for running around town, towing, and off road.
Ok what I'm planning on doing is changing the gear to 4.10 and running 35's putting a Trac Loc in the front. I going to wait to hunting season opens and weld the rear then maybe by that time the season is over I will have the funds for a selectable locker in the rear. I run with about 5 guys with welded rears and they are great in the woods. I run my Mudders during hunting season and only to the hunting club and back mostly so I think it will be ok. I want to get a little more clearance because when you really twist it up the tires rub. Do you think a 2" suppension lift would do it.
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