220 From Subpanel
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
If he wanted to put in a welder later, he could piggyback 2 of those 20 amp breakers down to 1 breaker, but make sure they are both light 20 amp circuits, because a if you have a heavy load on a piggyback breaker, it will create twice the heat and cause it to kick quite often. Theoretically if you have 4 lighter 20 amp circuits, you could piggy back them down to 2 breakers and have more open spots.
John- Is that service panel a BR or a CH style panel? I can't tell form the pictures. I'm thinking its a CH.
John- Is that service panel a BR or a CH style panel? I can't tell form the pictures. I'm thinking its a CH.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Austin USA
Originally Posted by handyman43358
John- Is that service panel a BR or a CH style panel? I can't tell form the pictures. I'm thinking its a CH.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Thats what I figured it was. I was going to say though, if it was a BR, you could probably have the option to shop around for different brand breakers and see whats cheapest. You'll find those CH breakers at Lowes anyday though. They seem to be getting more and more popular (As far as the Cutler Hammer panels go.)
We installed Square D for a while and kept getting many service calls on them. So we got deals with Cutler Hammer and we haven't had a single service call dealing with problems in them. The only thing we get service calls about is the "Arc fault" style breakers they are making us install for bedroom circuits. They are a pain in my &%*.
We installed Square D for a while and kept getting many service calls on them. So we got deals with Cutler Hammer and we haven't had a single service call dealing with problems in them. The only thing we get service calls about is the "Arc fault" style breakers they are making us install for bedroom circuits. They are a pain in my &%*.
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From: Austin USA
I have a question on ground and neutral wires. When I look at the subpanel, it has a grounding bar on both sides. On the left side, the sires that are connected to the bar are all bare wires, the kind that are associated with ground. This bar also has, what looks like, a ribbon of aluminum looking wires, that must be the main ground wires.
One the other side, the wires are mostly white wires. There is a thick grey cable that must be the main ground.
Would the the gournd wire of a 10-3 cable go on the left with the other ground wires and the neutral (white) on the left? Or does it really make a difference?
One the other side, the wires are mostly white wires. There is a thick grey cable that must be the main ground.
Would the the gournd wire of a 10-3 cable go on the left with the other ground wires and the neutral (white) on the left? Or does it really make a difference?
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Joined: Sep 2004
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The bar on the upper right is designed to be insulated from the panel. See the insulated attachment hardware? This bar is for is your neutral connections. The "thick grey cable" is the neutral connection running back to the main panel.
The bar on the left side is your ground bar. It ties the various grounds and the case together. The "ribbon of aluminum wires" is the equipment grounding conductor running back to the main panel.
The white wire goes to the neutral, the bare wire to the ground. It DOES make a difference.
You don't need 10/3 wire to wire an air compressor. The neutral wire serves no purpose. (10/2 would have been enough). If you want to install a 4 prong drier receptacle, it does make sense to hook up the neutral to the panel and to the receptacle. There is nowhere to connect the white neutral wire in the pigtail running to the compressor, so just insulate the end in the compressor connection box.
The bar on the left side is your ground bar. It ties the various grounds and the case together. The "ribbon of aluminum wires" is the equipment grounding conductor running back to the main panel.
The white wire goes to the neutral, the bare wire to the ground. It DOES make a difference.
You don't need 10/3 wire to wire an air compressor. The neutral wire serves no purpose. (10/2 would have been enough). If you want to install a 4 prong drier receptacle, it does make sense to hook up the neutral to the panel and to the receptacle. There is nowhere to connect the white neutral wire in the pigtail running to the compressor, so just insulate the end in the compressor connection box.
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From: Austin USA
Thanks again fefarms. I got a 4 wire dryer cord and outlet. I realized that I would be using the neutral for the compressor, but might as well hook it up for the receptacle.
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From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Fe farms is right. If it was a main breaker panel (Where the main breaker disconnect is mounted on the panel), then you could tie the nuetral and ground all on the same bar. Now since yours is a main lug panel (no main breaker... probably inside you house on the main panel I'm guessing, or on a disconnect outside the house), then you have to isolate the nuetrals to one bar, and the grounds to the other (the ground bar has green screws)
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