Water pump out... what else?
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New User
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 7
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Water pump out... what else?
The water pump went bad on my '77 F-350's 460 (While in the driveway! What luck!) so I went ahead and pulled the radiator and flushed it, bought a new pump, radiator hoses, belts, thermostat, heater hoses, and radiator cap (it needed all of these anyway.)
So, is there anything else I should do while I have the radiator out and no pump installed? Inspections, etc?
While I'm thinking about it, I'll be putting another carb on this rig soon, and was wondering what you guys recommend brand-wise? What ever I get will have to have an electric choke and I'm thinking should flow around 650 CFM. I've heard 700 - 750 might be better, but the only modification to the truck is dual exhaust with glasspack mufflers, so I don't think 750 CFM may be excessive. Plus, how hard should it be to reconnect my factory cruise control?
Thanks folks,
Josh Keady
1977 F-350 Ranger XLT Camper Special
So, is there anything else I should do while I have the radiator out and no pump installed? Inspections, etc?
While I'm thinking about it, I'll be putting another carb on this rig soon, and was wondering what you guys recommend brand-wise? What ever I get will have to have an electric choke and I'm thinking should flow around 650 CFM. I've heard 700 - 750 might be better, but the only modification to the truck is dual exhaust with glasspack mufflers, so I don't think 750 CFM may be excessive. Plus, how hard should it be to reconnect my factory cruise control?
Thanks folks,
Josh Keady
1977 F-350 Ranger XLT Camper Special
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
Water pump out... what else?
I'd flush the block as well, I found a bunch of crud in the bottom of one of mine once.
I'd also look at the impeller of the new water pump, some of the cheap ones have a stamped steal impeller where as other have a cast iron type. The cast iron types flow better and it's worth checking around for one.
As for carbs, I like the Holley vac sec setup, other like the Ed carbs, but I get a good vac sec Holley. The newer Holley street advenger has the easy to change sec vac springs and it's easier to adjust.
I'd also look at the impeller of the new water pump, some of the cheap ones have a stamped steal impeller where as other have a cast iron type. The cast iron types flow better and it's worth checking around for one.
As for carbs, I like the Holley vac sec setup, other like the Ed carbs, but I get a good vac sec Holley. The newer Holley street advenger has the easy to change sec vac springs and it's easier to adjust.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Water pump out... what else?
The 650 you have is probably a "Holly built for ford" and I believe it has annular discharge booster venturies in the primaries which give a stronger signal in the primaries, and
more low range torque and fuel efficiency than an aftermarket carb. Just my opinion but if you don't need the high end power
stick with the stock. On the secondary side it has a metering block instead of apair of jets and you can richen it up by drilling it out with a pin vise. I would drill them out to the size of the holes in a pre smog(69 or earlier)4160. It also has 4 idle mixture adj screws in each corner of the throttle base that you can drill axcess holes to and really fine tune the idle. Then plug the holes so they can't tell you messed with it.
You can get quick change diaphram covers for the vacuum secondary and an assortment of springs to tune the opening point.
Who said that perfomance is compromised in the quest for miliage.
more low range torque and fuel efficiency than an aftermarket carb. Just my opinion but if you don't need the high end power
stick with the stock. On the secondary side it has a metering block instead of apair of jets and you can richen it up by drilling it out with a pin vise. I would drill them out to the size of the holes in a pre smog(69 or earlier)4160. It also has 4 idle mixture adj screws in each corner of the throttle base that you can drill axcess holes to and really fine tune the idle. Then plug the holes so they can't tell you messed with it.
You can get quick change diaphram covers for the vacuum secondary and an assortment of springs to tune the opening point.
Who said that perfomance is compromised in the quest for miliage.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,625
Likes: 342
From: Albuquerque
Water pump out... what else?
Check out the fan while your at it. Especially if it's a clutch type.
1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6/4:11/Gear Vender O.D.
Crane hydralic roller, forged, ported polished,Deamon,Edlebrock, yada, yada, yada
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything
1977 Ford F-100
400m/c6/4:11/Gear Vender O.D.
Crane hydralic roller, forged, ported polished,Deamon,Edlebrock, yada, yada, yada
280,000 miles
Stock on the outside
modified/rebuilt everything
Elder User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
From: LAT 46.55501° & LON -122
Water pump out... what else?
Since you have gone to the trouble of removing your water pump, you might as well take one more step and check your timing chain. Not sure if the 460 uses that worthless nylon top sprocket like the 302 in my '76 Bronco did; they don't last much longer than a water pump, so it would be wise to check. Luckily I too was in my driveway when my chain skipped a link.
