charging problem
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charging problem
1980 F-100 straight 6 2wd
Lately I have been having problems with my truck not having the juice to start it. Les Schwab told me the battery and starter was fine but the alt wasn't putting out enough juice. I replaced the alt ran fine for a couple of days. Started up my truck to let it warm up, went back in the house came back out 10 min later and the engine had stop running. Tryed to start it again and there want enough juice to turn the engine. The 3 wires off the alt 2 going to the "switch" on the inside of the engine compartment the other to the auto choke in which has been replaced with a manual (done by prior owner) so the 3rd wire goes nowhere. Would the 3rd wire be the problem? I have replace the "switch" about 4 times haven't bought a new one in a while i've had the truck for 4 yrs now i think. oh yeah my truck does not like the cold and it has been cold here in OR. I've tryed looking for a short but havent found one. Any tips or sugestion would help.
I'm not much of a ford lover raised on chevys but both of my chevys are down and my ford has always been there for me when i needed it. Now it needs me to fix it please help.
Lately I have been having problems with my truck not having the juice to start it. Les Schwab told me the battery and starter was fine but the alt wasn't putting out enough juice. I replaced the alt ran fine for a couple of days. Started up my truck to let it warm up, went back in the house came back out 10 min later and the engine had stop running. Tryed to start it again and there want enough juice to turn the engine. The 3 wires off the alt 2 going to the "switch" on the inside of the engine compartment the other to the auto choke in which has been replaced with a manual (done by prior owner) so the 3rd wire goes nowhere. Would the 3rd wire be the problem? I have replace the "switch" about 4 times haven't bought a new one in a while i've had the truck for 4 yrs now i think. oh yeah my truck does not like the cold and it has been cold here in OR. I've tryed looking for a short but havent found one. Any tips or sugestion would help.
I'm not much of a ford lover raised on chevys but both of my chevys are down and my ford has always been there for me when i needed it. Now it needs me to fix it please help.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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I am having similiar problems. My voltage is 12.27 engine off. Engine off it starts at 11.70 and climbs to app. 13.00. Alternator is rebuilt by a reputable shop, all new battery cables. Charge light comes on as rpms increase, faster when the head lights are on? If you have any suggestions i'm all ears, i'm thoroughly exhausted at this point
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Originally Posted by hconner3
I am having similiar problems. My voltage is 12.27 engine off. Engine off it starts at 11.70 and climbs to app. 13.00. Alternator is rebuilt by a reputable shop, all new battery cables. Charge light comes on as rpms increase, faster when the head lights are on? If you have any suggestions i'm all ears, i'm thoroughly exhausted at this point
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From: Virginia
I agree. If you have the seperate regulator, I would clean the plug and the terminals, and also clean where the regulator mounts for a good ground.
If you still get only 13 volts, you can unplug the regulator, and then take a length of jumper wire and jamb it into the "F" terminal wire in the plug. Get the truck running, and get your meter hooked up to the battery. You should be reading something around 12v. While you are monitoring the voltage, and the truck is running, touch the "F" wire you jambed in the plug to the battery +. If the alternator is working, you should hear it load down, and your meter should read pretty high, something like 16 volts or higher, depending on how fast the engine is idling.
Putting 12 volts on the "F" wire will make the alternator go wide open full charge. If it's still pretty weak and something like 13 volts, I suspect the alternator.
If you still get only 13 volts, you can unplug the regulator, and then take a length of jumper wire and jamb it into the "F" terminal wire in the plug. Get the truck running, and get your meter hooked up to the battery. You should be reading something around 12v. While you are monitoring the voltage, and the truck is running, touch the "F" wire you jambed in the plug to the battery +. If the alternator is working, you should hear it load down, and your meter should read pretty high, something like 16 volts or higher, depending on how fast the engine is idling.
Putting 12 volts on the "F" wire will make the alternator go wide open full charge. If it's still pretty weak and something like 13 volts, I suspect the alternator.
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working now
I got it fixed. Turned out the belt was fairly tight 13V at idle, and loosened up at higher RPM's. I tightened the belt and got 14.1 volts at idle. Also had a battery that was twice as old as i remember (4 yrs instead of 2 yrs). Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated when your tearing your hair out, after you think you have checked everything.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 856
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From: Kansas City, Missouri
Originally Posted by hconner3
I got it fixed. Turned out the belt was fairly tight 13V at idle, and loosened up at higher RPM's. I tightened the belt and got 14.1 volts at idle. Also had a battery that was twice as old as i remember (4 yrs instead of 2 yrs). Thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated when your tearing your hair out, after you think you have checked everything.
